R.O.C.K Restoration Project

First of all, I would like to thank those who offered us a donar block to work with. THANK YOU!

After considering our options, we have decided to buy a block from JP Tractor Salvage. The block is over bored at 0.04" and comes with a new piston kit, ground valves, lifters and camshaft. All it needs is a crank and rods.

Rocky is the donar and is a match. Any advice or tips on removing and inspecting the crank and rods?
 
Hi,
Below is the Cub service manual GSS-1411. Connecting rod info starts in section 1, page 25. The crankshaft is covered in section 1, pages 47 - 52.
There are 2 sections gone from it. But the engine section is there. There might be another manual like it at the upper left of the page with the missing sections, if you need those. :)

http://www.farmallcub.info/galleries/ci ... actors.asp
 
Thank you for the link Glen! Everything you need to know at the click of a mouse.

I was just reminded that the crankshaft pulley has to come off in order to get the crankshaft out. Just about ruined my day.....until I was told that I could remove the rod connectors while properly labeling them, and then remove the front cover. Then, let the machine shop press the pulley off. That sounds about right to me, let the machine shop do the dirty work, yea.

Does anyone foresee problems with this approach?
 
I would just emphasize to them that the pulley needs good backing so a flange doesn't get broken off. I think you saw how we did it at the Cubfest, which is probably harder than using a press on the crank.
 
It appears that Rocky's crankshaft has been worked on? Can someone confirm that these numbers represent over sized bearing replacements?

Rocky Crank.jpg
 
rockfarmer":32qz3bhc said:
It appears that Rocky's crankshaft has been worked on? Can someone confirm that these numbers represent over sized bearing replacements?

Rocky Crank.jpg
Click to expand...
Looks like it to me, measure to be sure though. According to the writing the rods are .030" over and the mains are .020" over making the crankshaft smaller by those same numbers.
 
:Dito: on Chipmaker's comment on measuring. That's the only way you can know for sure. You might get lucky and find the journals are still in spec after they were turned. Remember the main bearing caps have to stay with the block that they were fitted to and in the same position as when they were bored.
 
Pulled the crank and got the following numbers using a digital micrometer.

Crank:
Rear - 1.601"
Center - 1.600"
Front - 1.062"

Rods:
Rear - 1.466"
Next - 1.465"
Next - 1.464"
Front - 1.463"

This seems to be in line with the noted "oversize" bearings and original specs.
 
I was not looking forward to removing the crankshaft pulley so much, that I threatened to take it to a machine shop for removal. After debating for several days, I decided to at least attempt it before giving in so easy. It could not have been any easier! :{_}:

Removing Rocky's Pulley.jpg

49 Pulley Easy removal.jpg

Now, does that mean that the pulley needs to be re-sleeved? Or is the clean living paying off, big time?
 
If there is a wear groove where the seal runs on the pulley, it would need the sleeve. A sleeve will not have any effect on the tightness of the pulley on the crank.
 
staninlowerAL":3m96ebqq said:
Did you check each one in several positions to determine if it is "out of round"? Sorry to be a pessimist!
Click to expand...

The crank could be slightly out of round based on my results, but it could also be the operator's error! I will drop it off at the machine shop next week and let them inspect it. Hopefully it works in the new block.

Speaking of the block, what did you mean ?
staninlowerAL":3m96ebqq said:
:Dito: on Chipmaker's comment on measuring. That's the only way you can know for sure. You might get lucky and find the journals are still in spec after they were turned. Remember the main bearing caps have to stay with the block that they were fitted to and in the same position as when they were bored.
Click to expand...

the bearings have to stay with the block? or do they stay with the crank?
 
Hi,
He was saying that the same main bearing caps have to be used on the engine that they originally came with, not the bearings. The bearing cap is the piece that bolts onto the engine, and holds the bearing in it.
They have to be in the right order, they are marked with stamped numbers, I think. They have to be facing the right way also.
I would replace the bearings if you are rebuilding the engine.

Below is a pic, from TM Tractor, of the engine with the 3 bearing caps bolted in place. :)
 

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  • Cub engine 5.jpg
    Cub engine 5.jpg
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Glen":fxfnyho5 said:
Hi, He was saying that the same main bearing caps have to be used on the engine that they originally came with, not the bearings. The bearing cap is the piece that bolts onto the engine, and holds the bearing in it. They have to be in the right order, they are marked with stamped numbers, I think. They have to be facing the right way also.
Click to expand...
Yeah, Glen described it better than my effort. Notice the thrust bearing position is different than the others, the block/bearing cap is designed for this also. When you look at the main bearings you'll see the difference in the way they are made. (You may already know this, if so, sorry.) :hattip:
 
Thanks guys...I did not know that. I thought the bearings would go with the crank since they have been married.

So, I should replace the main bearings with 0.020" , and replace the connecting rod bearings with 0.030" ? pending the crank is in good shape.
 
rockfarmer":ysii6sbm said:
Thanks guys...I did not know that. I thought the bearings would go with the crank since they have been married.

So, I should replace the main bearings with 0.020" , and replace the connecting rod bearings with 0.030" ? pending the crank is in good shape.
Click to expand...
Exactly.
 
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