R.O.C.K Restoration Project

I see why you flipped yours. Rocky's is not that bad. Thank you for pointing that out Jim. I hit it with a file, lightly, to remove sharp edges and burrs and put it back on, as is. The new owner is going to need a project to look forward to, right? Especially after spending some time on this site and/or going to a Cubfest.

49 Flywheel Installed.jpg

The clutch worked OK when I got the tractor, although I did not use it but 2-3 times, and I certainly don't want to "fix what ain't broken", but I did install a new disc. The one I removed showed some wear. The fingers are currently set at this height or distance from the plate;

49 Clutch Adjustment.jpg

About 1 3/16".
 
Hi,
The engine looks good. :)

In your first pic on this page, it looks like you need to turn the high speed limit bolt, on top of the governor, out some, if it is the original length bolt, so it will run at 1800 RPM.
Turning the bolt down decreases the top speed of the engine.

I would check the high and low idle speeds with an automotive test tachometer when you get the engine to run. They have said on here that a tach with a dial and pointer works better for a Cub.

They usually say 1 1/4" for the pressure plate finger height on here, maybe an expert will comment about it.
 
I used to set them at 1 1/4" but often the adjustment bolts were marginal in length. A while back, I ground my setting gauge down to 1 1/8", seems to work out better in most cases. Your 1 3/16" will work fine, just make certain they are all set the same.
On the ring gear, I'm opposed to turning them around. As designed, there is a lead-in bevel on the front of the gear teeth, which is absent on the back side. It might work o.k. but the starter might not engage as easily. If the gear needs attention, replace it, it's not that expensive.
 
Stanton, thank you for the governor information. I have read Pabst how to before, but had not seen Gary's version. Both are excellent how to's!

Glen":2zy1xoas said:
In your first pic on this page, it looks like you need to turn the high speed limit bolt, on top of the governor, out some, if it is the original length bolt, so it will run at 1800 RPM.
Turning the bolt down decreases the top speed of the engine.
Click to expand...

Thank you for pointing that out Glen. I positioned the head of the adjusting bolt 5/16" from the locking nut, based on a recommendation from a previous post.

Gary Dotson":2zy1xoas said:
On the ring gear, I'm opposed to turning them around. As designed, there is a lead-in bevel on the front of the gear teeth, which is absent on the back side. It might work o.k. but the starter might not engage as easily.
Click to expand...

In that case, I will put on a new ring gear. Don't want the starter to have any excuses!
 
While waiting on the ring gear to arrive, I plan on installing the finals into the differential and mounting the rear wheels. Does the upper transmission bearing need the rear cover installed?

Rear countershaft bearing.jpg
It fell off while installing the transmission shaft,
Diff no shield.jpg
and now I am worried it may fall off again. That could be bad. The bearing has no hole it it.
 
Gary Dotson":2m6owig5 said:
On the ring gear, I'm opposed to turning them around. As designed, there is a lead-in bevel on the front of the gear teeth, which is absent on the back side. It might work o.k. but the starter might not engage as easily. If the gear needs attention, replace it, it's not that expensive.
Click to expand...
I’ve turned both of our cubs around and haven’t had a single issue with either one. Just for the record.
 
rockfarmer":2ffysdc8 said:
For $65, it's getting a new gear. No reason to cut costs, at this point, on such an important component.
Click to expand...
I don’t see it as cutting cost on my part. I see it as the back side was new so I may as well use it. I haven’t had any problems with the two of ours that I turned is all I was saying.
 
I hear what you are saying...and I appreciate your help! As you pointed out, Rocky's ring gear has already been turned so it was an easy decision, for me, to just get a new gear, especially when I saw the price. I did not know there was a difference in the bevel from one side to the other. Now I do, thanks to Mr. Dotson.

I now remember having the machine shop turn the one on my '62, and it starts fine. I was telling Stan about the shop charging me $40 to turn the gear and that is when he informed me about the torch technique.
 
Hi,
The bearing rear shield should fit tight in the hole, you don't want it to fall out.
Below are pics of it at TM Tractor. It is curved, you could try expanding the outside of it slightly, and see if it fits tighter in the hole.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tr/253fp.htm

It looks like in your pic above that 2 holes in the trans case that hold on the rear cover, and PTO, have bad threads, unless it is just the pic making it look that way.
The hole at the upper left, and the hole at the half way down right. You probably need to install repair coils in them, if they are bad. :)
 
Very Very Nice work and project. When is the charity event? Might have to make a trip to come talk about the Cub ............AND BID ON IT!!! You're doing a fine restoration!
 
Got the ring gear removed from the flywheel and flipped it over to cool.
Ring gear removal.jpg
Not too bad. 4 slow trips around the ring with the torch and 5-6 taps with the hammer. Fell right off.

While waiting on the new gear to arrive, I decided to put the front axle together starting with the Hubs.

First I removed the old races' from hub by using a hammer and punch to knock them out.
Front Hub Inner.jpg


Installed the new races' in hub using a race installation tool, harbor freight,
Front Hub Inner race.jpg
Front Hub Outer race.jpg

Installed wear sleeve using a hardwood block and hammer,
Front Hub wear sleeve.jpg

and installed felt washer and in the process of the oil seal on spindle,
Front Spindle New.jpg

Is this the correct orientation for the seal?
 
Glen":1zjy5ast said:
Hi,

It looks like in your pic above that 2 holes in the trans case that hold on the rear cover, and PTO, have bad threads, unless it is just the pic making it look that way.
The hole at the upper left, and the hole at the half way down right. You probably need to install repair coils in them, if they are bad. :)
Click to expand...

Good eye Glen! The upper left hole is in fact booger-ed up. Looks like there was a coil installed previously and is deteriorating. I will install/replace it. The middle right was dirty with old grease mainly. I cleaned it and the threads look OK.

Thanks for pointing them out!

Also, I flattened the shield out some and put it back on. The fit is better but I now wonder, "should I be proactive and tack it on with a dob of JB weld"?
 
Shane Nelson":20ym7x7r said:
Someone is going to get a nice Cub come April. Nice work!
Click to expand...

Yes they are!... thanks to you all :D

If it were up to me alone, it could be a very disappointing investment for the high bidder.

I said could, not would.
 
I just need confirmation please, that I have the oil seal on the front hub installed correctly. I found the following thread that shows pic's and provides a good description, but with the oil seal being compressed in the picture, I'm just not 100% sure.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91439

Rocky's spindle;
Front Spindle New.jpg

Thanks in advance.
 
New ring gear is in but I cannot get it on the flywheel. Benzomatic torch may not have enough "back end"!

Any ideas how hot the ring needs to be?
 
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