Mike in Louisiana
501 Club
Tim, That's looking mighty fine.
R.O.C.K Restoration Project
- Thread starter rockfarmer
- Start date
Hi,
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub owner's manual saying to re torque the head bolts after the first 50 hours of use. I think they did not have this info in the first manuals.
I would torque the bolts when the engine is cold, that is how they were torqued the first time.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-71.jpg
Here is the next page, for anyone wanting to see the service recommendations.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-72.jpg
Below is a page from the 1965 Cub owner's manual saying to re torque the head bolts after the first 50 hours of use. I think they did not have this info in the first manuals.
I would torque the bolts when the engine is cold, that is how they were torqued the first time.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-71.jpg
Here is the next page, for anyone wanting to see the service recommendations.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-72.jpg
rockfarmer
501 Club
Lined up the punch marks on the idler, camshaft and crankshaft gears at TDC, marked the idler gear with white-out to install governor properly and cleaned the gasket mating surface.
Ready to put the front cover with new seal on, but before doing so, I want to ask about the governor seal placement. I will be using the J4 Magneto and currently have this much clearance,
which is between 27/32" and 28/32". Is it set too deep?
Not sure if there is a spec but I can easily slide a quarter between the seal and gear,
Ready to put the front cover with new seal on, but before doing so, I want to ask about the governor seal placement. I will be using the J4 Magneto and currently have this much clearance,
which is between 27/32" and 28/32". Is it set too deep?
Not sure if there is a spec but I can easily slide a quarter between the seal and gear,
rockfarmer
501 Club
your right...I drove it in too far! Now i need to figure out how to drive it back the other way, evenly.
Hi,
They have said on here before that the spec in the service manual for the depth of the governor gear oil seal was made when the seals were thicker, so it may need adjusting for modern thinner oil seals.
If needed, you might be able to change the position of the seal slightly if the governor gear is worn where the seal was before, to make it run on an unworn place on the gear surface.
I think the manual says leave the front cover bolts loose some, until after you put the front pulley on, so the oil seal can be centered on the pulley seal surface.
Below are pics from TM Tractor, of the governor gear and the idler gear.
The timing mark on the governor gear is on the edge of the tooth, on the left of the pic.
The timing mark for the governor gear is on the rear side of the idler gear. Look closely. It is on the right in the pic of the gear below. It should be shown in the manual.
They have said on here before that the spec in the service manual for the depth of the governor gear oil seal was made when the seals were thicker, so it may need adjusting for modern thinner oil seals.
If needed, you might be able to change the position of the seal slightly if the governor gear is worn where the seal was before, to make it run on an unworn place on the gear surface.
I think the manual says leave the front cover bolts loose some, until after you put the front pulley on, so the oil seal can be centered on the pulley seal surface.
Below are pics from TM Tractor, of the governor gear and the idler gear.
The timing mark on the governor gear is on the edge of the tooth, on the left of the pic.
The timing mark for the governor gear is on the rear side of the idler gear. Look closely. It is on the right in the pic of the gear below. It should be shown in the manual.
Attachments
rockfarmer
501 Club
After inspecting the crankshaft pulley, I decided to install a new wear sleeve,
using my new sleeve installation tool.:idea:
(Roller type throw out bearing I decided not to use after reading many negative reviews). Worked perfectly!
Thanks to Glens' timely advice regarding the front cover, I loosened the bolts shortly after tightening them, and installed the pulley. I found it difficult to get the cover/seal aligned just right due to gravity, so I turned the engine like this,
This position allows the seal on the front cover to center itself around the pulley sleeve without any undue stresses, especially after rotating the crank shaft back and forth a few times. The cover can then be tightened.
As far as the pulley's final position, how far does the pulley need to go? Until it hits the crankshaft gear? There is currently about 1/8" gap between pulley and gear. The oil seal is riding about the same location as the original two grooves were, of course underneath the sleeve. Edit: The oil seal is now 1/4" closer to the pulley than the original groove closest to the pulley. Those 2 grooves look awful close to the tapered part of the pulley.
using my new sleeve installation tool.:idea:
(Roller type throw out bearing I decided not to use after reading many negative reviews). Worked perfectly!
Thanks to Glens' timely advice regarding the front cover, I loosened the bolts shortly after tightening them, and installed the pulley. I found it difficult to get the cover/seal aligned just right due to gravity, so I turned the engine like this,
This position allows the seal on the front cover to center itself around the pulley sleeve without any undue stresses, especially after rotating the crank shaft back and forth a few times. The cover can then be tightened.
As far as the pulley's final position, how far does the pulley need to go? Until it hits the crankshaft gear? There is currently about 1/8" gap between pulley and gear. The oil seal is riding about the same location as the original two grooves were, of course underneath the sleeve. Edit: The oil seal is now 1/4" closer to the pulley than the original groove closest to the pulley. Those 2 grooves look awful close to the tapered part of the pulley.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Crankshaft pulley is on all the way and the oil seal is running on a nice clean surface, barely.
Is this going to be a problem? I noticed two lips on the seal. The rear lip is good but the front lip is riding on the sleeve with not much room to spare. I could not get the wear sleeve on any further without risking possible damage.
I replaced the needle bearing in governor and have a question about the oil seal.
The original seal had a spring in it and the new one does not. Should I reuse the spring in the new seal?
Is this going to be a problem? I noticed two lips on the seal. The rear lip is good but the front lip is riding on the sleeve with not much room to spare. I could not get the wear sleeve on any further without risking possible damage.
I replaced the needle bearing in governor and have a question about the oil seal.
The original seal had a spring in it and the new one does not. Should I reuse the spring in the new seal?
Hi,
If you have an oil seal with 2 lips, the front lip was originally made to keep dirt out of the seal. The rear lip is the oil seal.
As long as the front lip is on the sleeve, it should work, it is not as important as the rear lip.
Several of the original seals on Cubs had the 2 lips, many of the new seals have 1 lip.
I would use the new seal for the governor the way it came.
The engine looks good in the pics.
If you have an oil seal with 2 lips, the front lip was originally made to keep dirt out of the seal. The rear lip is the oil seal.
As long as the front lip is on the sleeve, it should work, it is not as important as the rear lip.
Several of the original seals on Cubs had the 2 lips, many of the new seals have 1 lip.
I would use the new seal for the governor the way it came.
The engine looks good in the pics.
rockfarmer
501 Club
In rebuilding the governor, I replaced the internals with one that came off a newer model (same weight), because the original weights opened up so far they were making contact with the housing.
You can clearly see the wear on the outside of the weights and there was a distinct pattern mark on the inside of the housing where it was making contact...forgot to photo. Can this governor be re built?
You can clearly see the wear on the outside of the weights and there was a distinct pattern mark on the inside of the housing where it was making contact...forgot to photo. Can this governor be re built?
Tim, I would suspect that either the pins through the weights are worn and grooved, and/or the holes are wallered out. You'll need to take it apart and see where the problem is.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Thanks Bob. I took the governor apart and believe it is a case of wallered out holes.
The pins have no grooves and the weights are relatively tight on the pins. I will set this one aside and use it for parts in the future.
The pins have no grooves and the weights are relatively tight on the pins. I will set this one aside and use it for parts in the future.
I believe those holes can be welded and re-drilled. I've read that in another thread, but can't find it at the moment. Here's a couple threads in the How To Forum that may offer additional info:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=91319&p=512925&hilit=governor#p512925
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44139&p=364892&hilit=governor#p364892
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=91319&p=512925&hilit=governor#p512925
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=44139&p=364892&hilit=governor#p364892
rockfarmer
501 Club
Got the top and front of the block buttoned up,
Now its time for the back side (flywheel, clutch and torque tube installation).
It looks like the ring gear needs to be reversed on the flywheel before installing,
I remember Stan in LA telling me a while back that the ring gear can be removed simply by heating with a torch.
Any other tips on removing?
Now its time for the back side (flywheel, clutch and torque tube installation).
It looks like the ring gear needs to be reversed on the flywheel before installing,
I remember Stan in LA telling me a while back that the ring gear can be removed simply by heating with a torch.
Any other tips on removing?
Hard to say from just a picture, but it doesn't look that bad to me.rockfarmer":1rjqpgc9 said:
rockfarmer
501 Club
I certainly don't want to reverse, if not needed.
Here is picture of the worst spot on the flywheel.
I would much rather hit it with a file for a little while, if that would suffice.
Here is picture of the worst spot on the flywheel.
I would much rather hit it with a file for a little while, if that would suffice.
