R.O.C.K Restoration Project
- Thread starter rockfarmer
- Start date
Hi,
Great that you got it to run.
Too bad the head is leaking.
All the head bolts need sealer applied to the threads only, about the bottom 3/8" of the bolts.
I would use the Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket. Stir up the can good first.
Like they said above, drain the coolant, and remove a head bolt and see if it has sealer on it.
If you find that you need to put sealer on all of them, if there is none on them, you will need to remove the hood, so you can torque the bolts again, and I would run fresh water down the bolt holes, to wash them out some. There is more chance of the sealer sticking if the anti freeze is removed from the threads. Leave the radiator drain plug out when doing that.
It would help the sealer stick if the bolt hole threads were dry, after washing the holes, you could use air down the holes to dry them, you can't really see when they are dry though.
Wash the bolts in water first too, and dry them.
Use pliers and carefully tighten the strainer bowl nut, and see if it quits dripping gas. It is probably not tight enough if it drips. Move the Touch Control arms to the rear position first, it is easier to get to it.
Do not leave gas on the new paint, catch the dripping gas somehow, and wipe up any that dripped on the paint right away, before it ruins the paint.
If your Touch Control lever is fully ahead in the pic of the Cub, it looks like something is not adjusted right, the rockshaft is not far enough up. It should turn a little more clockwise, viewed from the right side.
Great that you got it to run.
Too bad the head is leaking.
All the head bolts need sealer applied to the threads only, about the bottom 3/8" of the bolts.
I would use the Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket. Stir up the can good first.
Like they said above, drain the coolant, and remove a head bolt and see if it has sealer on it.
If you find that you need to put sealer on all of them, if there is none on them, you will need to remove the hood, so you can torque the bolts again, and I would run fresh water down the bolt holes, to wash them out some. There is more chance of the sealer sticking if the anti freeze is removed from the threads. Leave the radiator drain plug out when doing that.
It would help the sealer stick if the bolt hole threads were dry, after washing the holes, you could use air down the holes to dry them, you can't really see when they are dry though.
Wash the bolts in water first too, and dry them.
Use pliers and carefully tighten the strainer bowl nut, and see if it quits dripping gas. It is probably not tight enough if it drips. Move the Touch Control arms to the rear position first, it is easier to get to it.
Do not leave gas on the new paint, catch the dripping gas somehow, and wipe up any that dripped on the paint right away, before it ruins the paint.
If your Touch Control lever is fully ahead in the pic of the Cub, it looks like something is not adjusted right, the rockshaft is not far enough up. It should turn a little more clockwise, viewed from the right side.
Frozenstate
Well-known member
If you have the fuel screen with the white plastic edge, that might be the problem. I tried one of those and couldn't get a seal. I finally put in the screen without the edging, screen only and it sealed. May be a trick to it though. I would like to know if anyone else had luck with the plastic edged screen.
staninlowerAL
501 Club
I have had better success with a nitrile gasket. It is petroleum resistant and more forgiving than cork. Beautiful restoration and top quality workmanship.
rockfarmer
501 Club
tst said:
rockfarmer
501 Club
All of the head bolts had aviation sealer applied on them. Still tacky.
So I carefully pried the head off to look for evidence. Not as pretty as it was a couple days ago. Also, please keep in mind that the 3rd time we cranked and let the tractor idle, the choke had inadvertently been pulled out. It ran for a minute or less, until I figured it out with black smoke coming out of the exhaust, and pushed in the choke. Then smoooooth. It was then that I noticed the weeping and turned off the tractor.
There appears to be oil? in cylinders 2 and 3 while 1 and 4 were dry. Definitely a small amount of water present in cylinders 2 and 3.
Did I let the gasket sealer dry too much before installing?
So I carefully pried the head off to look for evidence. Not as pretty as it was a couple days ago. Also, please keep in mind that the 3rd time we cranked and let the tractor idle, the choke had inadvertently been pulled out. It ran for a minute or less, until I figured it out with black smoke coming out of the exhaust, and pushed in the choke. Then smoooooth. It was then that I noticed the weeping and turned off the tractor.
There appears to be oil? in cylinders 2 and 3 while 1 and 4 were dry. Definitely a small amount of water present in cylinders 2 and 3.
Did I let the gasket sealer dry too much before installing?
rockfarmer
501 Club
Could have been concentrated coolant, ethylene glycol, in the cylinders, which is a great solvent for carbon. No odor. Cleaned up things and I am prepared to install another head gasket and take two.
Note: It appears that where the weeps were, on each side of the "this side up" embossing, the leak on top of the gasket and the weep below the gasket. The area where the leak was, on the block, has the two - stamps side by side, between the coolant port and the side... not sure if this made a difference or just coincidence?
Question(s); Should I re-use the copper spray and install the head quickly? Did I use too much and would that cause the leakage? I am planning on using this gasket,
Note: It appears that where the weeps were, on each side of the "this side up" embossing, the leak on top of the gasket and the weep below the gasket. The area where the leak was, on the block, has the two - stamps side by side, between the coolant port and the side... not sure if this made a difference or just coincidence?
Question(s); Should I re-use the copper spray and install the head quickly? Did I use too much and would that cause the leakage? I am planning on using this gasket,
Hi,
If you still have it apart, I would use a long straight edge on the top of the block, after cleaning the block surface, and see if it is flat. You could also check the head with the straight edge.
One or both of them might not be flat.
While you are holding the edge tight against the parts, try sliding a .001" or .002" feeler gauge under the edge in many different places, and move the edge to different places also. The feeler gauge should not go in anywhere. If it does, try different thicker gauges and see how thick a gauge will go in the place. But the place could be narrower than a feeler gauge also.
You probably need another person to hold the edge down with both hands, while you use the feeler gauge.
You could also hold a light next to the edge while someone is holding it down tight, and see if you can see light under the edge, if you use something like a large building square.
If you still have it apart, I would use a long straight edge on the top of the block, after cleaning the block surface, and see if it is flat. You could also check the head with the straight edge.
One or both of them might not be flat.
While you are holding the edge tight against the parts, try sliding a .001" or .002" feeler gauge under the edge in many different places, and move the edge to different places also. The feeler gauge should not go in anywhere. If it does, try different thicker gauges and see how thick a gauge will go in the place. But the place could be narrower than a feeler gauge also.
You probably need another person to hold the edge down with both hands, while you use the feeler gauge.
You could also hold a light next to the edge while someone is holding it down tight, and see if you can see light under the edge, if you use something like a large building square.
k hutchins
501 Club
I didn't go bac through the old posts when you originally installed the head, but remember ther is a specific order to tighten the bolts in. Also it was suggested to me that you do them in increments. Say 25 then 35, then 45. Start and run it for l think 45 minutes, then go back and retorque to specs. Some of mine were off by nearly 15 ftlbs when l retorqued.
Good luck
Good luck
rockfarmer
501 Club
It is still apart. I will check the flatness of both with a good straight edge. Don't have one now, but will start looking/asking.
I will re torque in 5 lb increments starting at 25 lbs and follow the proper sequence. No need to hurry. Originally, I torqued to 35, then 45, and probably should have re-torqued after running for a while. I saw the weeping and did not want to take any chances knowing I had another head gasket on hand.
Thank you all!
I will re torque in 5 lb increments starting at 25 lbs and follow the proper sequence. No need to hurry. Originally, I torqued to 35, then 45, and probably should have re-torqued after running for a while. I saw the weeping and did not want to take any chances knowing I had another head gasket on hand.
Thank you all!
AL Farmall Boy
501 Club
Very Nice. I would do what Bill suggested and use a pony tank to run/work a couple times and then retourque bolts. Looking forward to the video.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Had to hit the road for a week. Hopefully I will have him out of surgery this evening.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Installed new head gasket with copper spray. Did not let dry and torqued bolts to 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 foot-lbs following the sequence provided by Stanton. I re-sealed the bolts with aviation since there were traces of it from the initial install. Also, applied a small amount to the air cleaner bolts. Not sure why, but did it anyway. Will someone explain why this is important?
Let dry for 48 hours, only because I had other things to do. No SAFE pony tank available, so on with the hood and new glass sediment bowl.
I am happy to report no leaks, anywhere
.....yet.
I recorded the following videos with my cel phone. Hope the quality is OK.
https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outl ... reserved=0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjmIVKa ... eG&index=2
Let dry for 48 hours, only because I had other things to do. No SAFE pony tank available, so on with the hood and new glass sediment bowl.
I am happy to report no leaks, anywhere
.....yet.I recorded the following videos with my cel phone. Hope the quality is OK.
https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outl ... reserved=0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjmIVKa ... eG&index=2
staninlowerAL
501 Club
Tim, I've read on the FORUM that the air cleaner bolts penetrate the water jacket.
rockfarmer":35m3xvqn said:Installed new head gasket with copper spray. Did not let dry and torqued bolts to 25, 30, 35, 40, 45 foot-lbs following the sequence provided by Stanton. I re-sealed the bolts with aviation since there were traces of it from the initial install. Also, applied a small amount to the air cleaner bolts. Not sure why, but did it anyway. Will someone explain why this is important?
Let dry for 48 hours, only because I had other things to do. No SAFE pony tank available, so on with the hood and new glass sediment bowl.
I am happy to report no leaks, anywhere
I recorded the following videos with my cel phone. Hope the quality is OK.
https://nam01.safelinks.protection.outl ... reserved=0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjmIVKa ... eG&index=2
What a beautiful paint job. How did you get the cast iron components so smooth and shinny?
Dale Finch
501 Club
I sure hope you wore soft rubber soled shoes getting on that platform!! Sure don't want any scuff marks! :tractor:
How are you going to promote/advertise for the auction/drawing? With all that work and money spent, you really need someone to promote it like crazy.
:shock: Oh....unless your plan all along is to put in the only bids yourself!!! :lol:
How are you going to promote/advertise for the auction/drawing? With all that work and money spent, you really need someone to promote it like crazy.
:shock: Oh....unless your plan all along is to put in the only bids yourself!!! :lol: