R.O.C.K Restoration Project
- Thread starter rockfarmer
- Start date
Rick Prentice
501 Club
I agree with Shane. TM has corks http://www.tmtractor.com/new/gr/gr_001newparts.htm or your local ACE hardware and after you twist it in tight, use a single edge razor blade and trim it off flush and paint it red. Good as factory.
Rick
Rick
Hi,
Like Bob said above, I would prime the oil pump before starting the engine.
Below is a picture of where the hole is that I use for priming the oil pump. Just remove the oil filter top, and oil filter, and it is easy to see, use a light if you need to.
I fill a clean oil can with motor oil, and pump it into the hole, you might need more than one filling of the oil can to fill the passages in the engine.
Put the oil filter in, and the cover on, before starting the engine.
Watch the oil gauge after starting, it takes 15 - 20 seconds for the gauge to show pressure, it has to fill the oil filter housing before the gauge will show pressure.
After starting the engine, you will need to remove the air from the Touch Control system, and do the final filling of the unit. Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual telling how to remove the air, it is at paragraph 4, at the bottom of the page.
Fill it the last time with the arms to the rear or down position, like it says on the page.
I think you said you are using Hy-Tran fluid. The motor oil the manual says was not used anymore after they started using hydraulic fluid, Jim B. has said.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-62.jpg
Like Bob said above, I would prime the oil pump before starting the engine.
Below is a picture of where the hole is that I use for priming the oil pump. Just remove the oil filter top, and oil filter, and it is easy to see, use a light if you need to.
I fill a clean oil can with motor oil, and pump it into the hole, you might need more than one filling of the oil can to fill the passages in the engine.
Put the oil filter in, and the cover on, before starting the engine.
Watch the oil gauge after starting, it takes 15 - 20 seconds for the gauge to show pressure, it has to fill the oil filter housing before the gauge will show pressure.
After starting the engine, you will need to remove the air from the Touch Control system, and do the final filling of the unit. Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual telling how to remove the air, it is at paragraph 4, at the bottom of the page.
Fill it the last time with the arms to the rear or down position, like it says on the page.
I think you said you are using Hy-Tran fluid. The motor oil the manual says was not used anymore after they started using hydraulic fluid, Jim B. has said.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-62.jpg
Attachments
AL Farmall Boy
501 Club
Let me ask one more time......how do you keep it so clean and the bolts from getting chipped up/scratched when reassembling? I mean, something always gets dulled, dinged, or scratched especially reassembling bolt heads. You must be using rubber sockets and wrenches! :lol:
This work is truly impeccable.
This work is truly impeccable.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Secret- Plastic sandwich bag doubled over. Place on the bolt before the wrench or socket is used. Also, priming the bolts makes a big difference.
Most everything was powder coated Bengal Red. Engine block, hydraulic block and trans/differential were painted with a 2 part urethane mixed by a local auto paint auto parts dealer. Nuts, bolts, and a few other small items were painted using this as a primer/etcher,
which was also used to etch and prime the gas tank.
Orbit spray paint, in a can. Dries fast, reportedly has excellent UV resistance, and matches the powder coating really well. $15/can.
Most everything was powder coated Bengal Red. Engine block, hydraulic block and trans/differential were painted with a 2 part urethane mixed by a local auto paint auto parts dealer. Nuts, bolts, and a few other small items were painted using this as a primer/etcher,
which was also used to etch and prime the gas tank.
Orbit spray paint, in a can. Dries fast, reportedly has excellent UV resistance, and matches the powder coating really well. $15/can.
AL Farmall Boy
501 Club
Excellent tips for us all!! Thank you. Glad I asked!
rockfarmer
501 Club
Plugged the hole with one of many corks on hand, and followed Rick's advice,
rockfarmer
501 Club
The implement bolt holes. Do the corks that go into those get cut flush, or is it apropos to leave 1/4" sticking out, like this,
edit: Sure would be easier to get out when needed, just my thoughts...has nothing to do with the tedious work involved with cutting each cork and then painting each cork under the tractor, not very safe.
edit: Sure would be easier to get out when needed, just my thoughts...has nothing to do with the tedious work involved with cutting each cork and then painting each cork under the tractor, not very safe.
rockfarmer":2bv17h3u said:
All the ones I've seen have been cut flush. A lot of the time, guys think they have a broken bolt until they start to drill it out and find it's cork.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Spring Fever has hit central TX and Rocky is eat up with it.
Notice the position of the hydraulic lever?
Static timed the magneto last night following the advice of several previous posts. Thank you to those of you who posted the how to's. Easiest thing I have done on this tractor, including applying decals. Fired him up today, after a prayer, and, he purrrrrrrrred like a fat kitten, even while the rear rockshaft slowly buried itself in the downward position. I am amazed at how smooth everything ran. Especially the engine. It would not crank or even cough until I let the choke in and immediately he fired up, without a hiccup. May have something to do with the high pressure 72 degree weather we had today. Great oil pressure, within 8 seconds of startup. Lot smoother than my other tractor with 12 volt electronic ignition and zenith carb. I might have just been sold on 6 volt magneto's.
I will post a video as soon as I can.
A few things that need immediate attention. Hopefully they are not too severe!
1. After the initial 5 minute run I pushed in the ignition and the tractor died. Second time I cranked it let it run for a few minutes, pushed in the ignition switch and the tractor kept running. Had to turn off fuel and let it run out to kill the engine. What should I check first?
2. I noticed a few small coolant droplets between the head and head gasket that appear to have small amounts of copper sealant mixed in.
Behind the distributor is where coolant came out...enough to hit the ground, 1/2 teaspoon maybe. Re-torque the head bolts?
3. Fuel bowl leaking, not too bad. Could it be the new cork gasket needs time to swell or something? I changed bowls and same thing.
I am now, officially, hooked!
Notice the position of the hydraulic lever?
Static timed the magneto last night following the advice of several previous posts. Thank you to those of you who posted the how to's. Easiest thing I have done on this tractor, including applying decals. Fired him up today, after a prayer, and, he purrrrrrrrred like a fat kitten, even while the rear rockshaft slowly buried itself in the downward position. I am amazed at how smooth everything ran. Especially the engine. It would not crank or even cough until I let the choke in and immediately he fired up, without a hiccup. May have something to do with the high pressure 72 degree weather we had today. Great oil pressure, within 8 seconds of startup. Lot smoother than my other tractor with 12 volt electronic ignition and zenith carb. I might have just been sold on 6 volt magneto's.
I will post a video as soon as I can.
A few things that need immediate attention. Hopefully they are not too severe!
1. After the initial 5 minute run I pushed in the ignition and the tractor died. Second time I cranked it let it run for a few minutes, pushed in the ignition switch and the tractor kept running. Had to turn off fuel and let it run out to kill the engine. What should I check first?
2. I noticed a few small coolant droplets between the head and head gasket that appear to have small amounts of copper sealant mixed in.
Behind the distributor is where coolant came out...enough to hit the ground, 1/2 teaspoon maybe. Re-torque the head bolts?
3. Fuel bowl leaking, not too bad. Could it be the new cork gasket needs time to swell or something? I changed bowls and same thing.
I am now, officially, hooked!
Bill Hudson
501 Club
Tim,
Beautiful!!!!! Someone is going to own a real show stopper!
Bill
Beautiful!!!!! Someone is going to own a real show stopper!
Bill
rockfarmer
501 Club
There seems to be minute seepage on the right side only with one small weep on the rear, left side.
I'm not sure about the sealer on head bolts, now, after going back thru my documents and finding no evidence of sealer being used. I would have bet money I coated them knowing how important it is :shock:
My photos go from here,
to here,
I know I have kept things pretty clean throughout this project, but I am not OCD and there should be some trace of sealant around some of the bolt holes. I don't see any, do you?
Oh well. I can believe it...part of that being able to deal with setbacks, interruptions, etc. lesson I'm still learning. Should I drain the coolant now?
I'm not sure about the sealer on head bolts, now, after going back thru my documents and finding no evidence of sealer being used. I would have bet money I coated them knowing how important it is :shock:
My photos go from here,
to here,
I know I have kept things pretty clean throughout this project, but I am not OCD and there should be some trace of sealant around some of the bolt holes. I don't see any, do you?
Oh well. I can believe it...part of that being able to deal with setbacks, interruptions, etc. lesson I'm still learning. Should I drain the coolant now?
Bill Hudson
501 Club
Tim,
If you can determine the seepage is coming from headbolts, then draining the coolant is in order. If you then pull the offending headbolt(s) and find that you did not use sealer, sealing the bolts is in order. (Do not pull any of the headbolts without draining the coolant, the headbolts are below the level of the coolant and that stuff runs downhill.)
If you determine that the headbolt(s) is the only source of the leak, then remove the headbolts and seal them. There are several ways to go about the process. Given the situation you described, I would leave the head in place and remove the headbolts, apply sealer, reinstall them, and then go through the torqueing sequence. If I'm out in left field on this, others will be along shortly to get me straight.
One other thing, a pony tank may be beneficial. No need to install and remove the hood until all the bugs are worked out before final installation of the hood.
Good luck, I'm confident you will work this out just fine.
Bill
If you can determine the seepage is coming from headbolts, then draining the coolant is in order. If you then pull the offending headbolt(s) and find that you did not use sealer, sealing the bolts is in order. (Do not pull any of the headbolts without draining the coolant, the headbolts are below the level of the coolant and that stuff runs downhill.)
If you determine that the headbolt(s) is the only source of the leak, then remove the headbolts and seal them. There are several ways to go about the process. Given the situation you described, I would leave the head in place and remove the headbolts, apply sealer, reinstall them, and then go through the torqueing sequence. If I'm out in left field on this, others will be along shortly to get me straight.
One other thing, a pony tank may be beneficial. No need to install and remove the hood until all the bugs are worked out before final installation of the hood.
Good luck, I'm confident you will work this out just fine.
Bill
k hutchins
501 Club
When l replaced my head gasket last fall, it was suggested to run it for a 15 min or more at running temp., then retorque the head bolts.
As far as the ignition switch problem goes, l would check the switch itself. That's the only mechanical part of the equasion. You could dbl chk your wire connection at the mag, but my money is on the switch. Basically you're grounding out the mag when you push it in. If you don't have the switch grounded in the dash due to paint, that could stop it from grounding the mag.
All that being said l think you've done a magnificent job with maticulous detail in bring this cub back to life. Like many others on the forum that have lurked in the background, l have watched the progress, and learned a lot from the advice you've received. Job well done. Good luck with the tweaks.
Hutch
As far as the ignition switch problem goes, l would check the switch itself. That's the only mechanical part of the equasion. You could dbl chk your wire connection at the mag, but my money is on the switch. Basically you're grounding out the mag when you push it in. If you don't have the switch grounded in the dash due to paint, that could stop it from grounding the mag.
All that being said l think you've done a magnificent job with maticulous detail in bring this cub back to life. Like many others on the forum that have lurked in the background, l have watched the progress, and learned a lot from the advice you've received. Job well done. Good luck with the tweaks.
Hutch
rockfarmer
501 Club
tst":3n7k41ka said:
Yes...one wire from the switch to the side of the magneto.