R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Thank you for clarifying. Rocky's serial # is 79645 so the decal I have should be correct.

As far as the regulator goes, I think we can sell it as an upgrade. If the new owner wants to go all original, it gives that person or persons, an opportunity to get to know you all, and Rocky, a little better.
 
tst":38lfgyzi said:
september 12th 49 is the change from McCormick Deering to McCormick Farmall cub

I would go with McCormick Deering decal, the original 3 position style light switch and the voltage regulator saddle mounted! Just be clear and tell the owner (or document it in a manual given to them) that it has a regulator.
 
Sounds like the plan!

Round 2 on the radiator due to a slow leak so I drained the coolant,
Radiator drain.jpg
The leak was on the backside between the 3rd and 4th bolt from the bottom in pic. I believe the leak is due to a rookie mechanics inability to tighten the radiator down before the gasket sealer set up as you can see in the pic.

Radiator gasket sealer fail.jpg

I like the Right Stuff gasket sealer but I think it dries too fast, for me, on this application.
Cleaned and sanded the bolster,
Bolster cleaned.jpg
and applied the tried and true, slow drying Aviation gasket sealer,
New radiator gasket sealer.jpg
Rad roud 2.jpg
installed on the tracktor, waited about 6 hours and added coolant.

So far so good!
 
It is amazing how you keep this tractor so clean while working on it. No smudges, chips, scratches, and no dust or dirt from sitting so long in your shop! I could work on it in my living room and it would acquire dust!! :lol: Yours is spotless!

:surrender: Question: Do the radiator bolts require a certain torque spec? I have no experience installing new radiators on Cubs.
 
AL Farmall Boy":v71vix2x said:
... and no dust or dirt from sitting so long in your shop! :lol: Yours is spotless!

:lol: That's funny!!! I didn't think anyone noticed how long it was taking, other than my wife.

Regarding the radiator bolts, I just tightened until it felt right and/or the cork gasket just started to expand.

P.S. still laughing!
 
Voltage regulator has been re-wired with the original style wires. L terminal taped off.
Regulator front side.jpg

Regulator backside.jpg

Regulator top side.jpg

If someone sees something out of line, please chime in. I know you will, that's why there is so many pic's.

On to the serial plate removal and transplant.

Edit: That's a custom wiring job.
 
The serial plate removal technique I used was similar to the one used in removing the rivets.

Used a dremel tool to flatten the rivets,
Rocky's serial plate dremel.jpg
Punched and drilled with a 7/64" bit,
Rocky's serial plate drilled.jpg
drilled walked on me on the lower right one.

drilled with a 9/64" bit and pried the broken rivet off
Rocky's serial plate pry.jpg
serial plate removed.jpg

What is the best way to prepare the plate for a decal application?
 
I've bought them from Tim and they are top notch! I just cleaned the tag lightly with a brass brush on a drill with some acetone. I was on the Maple Hunter site the other day and noticed that they sell them too, now.
 
I am running out of things to do :shock:

Original serial # plate freshly removed from old, broken bolster.
serial plate original.jpg

cleaned with white vinegar and 0000 steel wool, since it was on hand,
Serial plate original cleaned.jpg

applied a donated decal from tst,
serial plate decal application.jpg

and as some of us use to say, whoomp there it is,

New serial plate installed.jpg

Better than new!
 
Today could be the day....that the following excuse no longer works, "...honey, I'm not going to be able to make it to dance lessons tonight.." :censored:

So, while listening to some Blue Grass music, I plan to install the battery box, rear rock shaft and grill today :{_}: Get some pictures and then focus on getting Rocky fired up.

Rocky's battery box had been updated at some point with an aluminum one. Only problem is the box had no place to mount the rear light or brackets to secure the lid,
aluminum battery box.jpg
So we got another box with the appropriate brackets, etc.

Do you all see any problems in grounding the battery this way?
Battery Box install.jpg
There is 0 ohms of resistance from the bolt hole to the front bolster and I won't have to remove anymore paint!

Placed a liner in battery box,
Battery Box liner.jpg

Placed battery in box,
Battery hook up.jpg
 
Nice work on the serial plate. I like keeping things original, so on my next restoration will be getting a decal for the original plate. Didn’t know TST had them available. Wondering if he does them for the other two style plates? Much cheaper and nicer touch to reuse the old one than buy the replacement.
As a side note, I use the aviation sealer on all paper and cork gaskets. Great product and no oil seeping as I used to get with silicone.
 
One more tease before start up. Can't have a tractor without a rear rockshaft!
rockshaft rear.jpg
And who wants rusty old iron bushings, when these nice, self lubing, thermoplastic ones are available,
Rear rockshaft bushings.jpg

Nice product Bill!

Rear rockshaft installed.jpg

No worries about his lift arm rusting for a while!


Rockshaft Bar.jpg

...dang cotter pin has even been powder coated :D
 
Question: The non threaded hole in the top of the differential housing, between the rear rock shaft mounting bolt holes is partially exposed. What is that used for, and should I plug it with something so it does not fill with crap. You can see it in the previous post.
 
There must be different styles of rear rock shaft plates mine covers that exposed hole. What I have used on other exposed holes on my 48 was chrome plated push plugs ,they are available at most hardware stores. They give the tractor a finished off look.Your tractor sure looks good!!
 
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