rockfarmer
501 Club
Yep, It's pretty bad, for me, since now I can't afford to bid on it :headbang. But good for the highest bidder, and hopefully Great for R.O.C.K., after all that's what its all about.
R.O.C.K Restoration Project
- Thread starter rockfarmer
- Start date
Dale Finch
501 Club
When is the auction and where? Is it a one shot auction, or is it over time, like eBay? Must a bidder be present, etc. Never too early to promote it! :{_}: :tractor:
rockfarmer
501 Club
Funny you ask Dale...just sent an email to the auctioneer. It's going to be a live auction with online bidding. Online bidding will begin a couple weeks before the event.
Also, I believe they will be taking online bids during the live auction. I will confirm asap.
:thanx:
Also, I believe they will be taking online bids during the live auction. I will confirm asap.
:thanx:
rockfarmer
501 Club
Working alone, I got the rear wheels and weights installed on Rocky by first laying the weight on the floor,
Then laid the wheel on top of the weight,
Inserted carriage bolts and finger tightened to the wheel center. Stood the wheel assembly up and tightened the bolts with a ratchet.
Did the same with the right wheel, rolled it over to the tractor and Bingo! The center of the hub match up perfectly with the rim center :{_}: just had to finagle it until the holes were lined up.
Not so lucky on the left side, but a piece of 3/8" plywood did the trick.
Removed the jack stands under the rear and installed the deck and battery box.
Plan to insert a coil in the upper left PTO bolt hole tomorrow, I mean later today, then install the PTO. Going to attempt the heli-coil myself.
Then laid the wheel on top of the weight,
Inserted carriage bolts and finger tightened to the wheel center. Stood the wheel assembly up and tightened the bolts with a ratchet.
Did the same with the right wheel, rolled it over to the tractor and Bingo! The center of the hub match up perfectly with the rim center :{_}: just had to finagle it until the holes were lined up.
Not so lucky on the left side, but a piece of 3/8" plywood did the trick.
Removed the jack stands under the rear and installed the deck and battery box.
Plan to insert a coil in the upper left PTO bolt hole tomorrow, I mean later today, then install the PTO. Going to attempt the heli-coil myself.
Dale Finch
501 Club
Quick question...did you remember to scrape the paint (down to bare metal) from the bolt hole areas on the bottom of the battery box and the matching areas on the axle extension/platform? This is needed to ensure good grounding contacts, assuming you will be attaching the battery ground cable in the original method using the battery box itself. You will also need to scrape the bolt hole on the left top side of the battery box where the end of that cable attaches.
Related to that, when you attach the rear light, all those contact points will need bare metal as well, unless you are using a separate ground wire.
Related to that, when you attach the rear light, all those contact points will need bare metal as well, unless you are using a separate ground wire.
Karl Bader
Active member
Looks like it won't be long now!
gitractorman
501 Club
AL Farmall Boy":wt5nayib said:
NO, you really don't want to know what it actually costs to restore a tractor this way!!!! I've done it. Trust me, it's not pretty.
Needless to say, you REALLY have to love doing this kind of work to put this much time and effort into a project. For me, it's kind of like therapy. I can go to the garage, work for a while, and come out with something that didn't exist before.
By the way, I've been watching this thread since the beginning and I just want to say what a great job you're doing. You're really going to have something to be proud of when you're done. Hopefully it goes to someone who can truely appreciate all the work that's going into it!!!
Bill
rockfarmer
501 Club
Dale Finch":3d1rfo63 said:
Not yet! I am hoping for another alternative which would require the minimum amount of paint removal. The battery box is aluminum, not sure if that is going to matter, and the bolt holes on the extension tube are clean bare metal. If I connect the ground wire to a clean bolt that attaches the box to the tube, will the threads provide enough surface area to properly ground the battery?
rockfarmer
501 Club
gitractorman":1r95rqfs said:
My sentiments exactly!
Dale Finch
501 Club
Easy enough to check if the bolt threads alone provide a good ground...screw in a bolt (by itself), then take an ohm reading with your multimeter between the head of that bolt and a different bare metal spot on the tractor. If you have continuity (meter goes to 0) you will probably be OK.
I definitely had to scrape paint off the mating surfaces of the taillight bracket, though. (Probably because the mountings were with a small nut and bolt, rather into a larger threaded hole.)
I definitely had to scrape paint off the mating surfaces of the taillight bracket, though. (Probably because the mountings were with a small nut and bolt, rather into a larger threaded hole.)
AL Farmall Boy
501 Club
rockfarmer":17y6ny7n said:
I totally agree too
rockfarmer
501 Club
Had a good therapy session with Rocky today. :||):
We attached the recent, professionally re-built engine to the torque tube and then moved the jack stand forward;
It was a little difficult getting the shaft into the pilot bushing, but with the engine hanging from the lift, it was easy to manipulate the block until both were lined up.
I then installed the front axle pivot assembly to the front bolster, while on the bench;
Slight end play on the pivot arm, but not enough to add a third washer.
Once assembled, I lifted the front bolster assembly into place with one arm!
Then, with the other arm, sanded a spot so that current can flow,
and it worked too! O ohms from the battery box bolt holes, in the extension tube, to the radiator housing :-
: thank you Dale!
We attached the recent, professionally re-built engine to the torque tube and then moved the jack stand forward;
It was a little difficult getting the shaft into the pilot bushing, but with the engine hanging from the lift, it was easy to manipulate the block until both were lined up.
I then installed the front axle pivot assembly to the front bolster, while on the bench;
Slight end play on the pivot arm, but not enough to add a third washer.
Once assembled, I lifted the front bolster assembly into place with one arm!
Then, with the other arm, sanded a spot so that current can flow,
and it worked too! O ohms from the battery box bolt holes, in the extension tube, to the radiator housing :-
: thank you Dale!rockfarmer
501 Club
I had previously re-built the steering gear housing by installing a new lower oil seal,
a new lower thrust washer,
and gasket.
The upper thrust washer was in spec so I left it in.
Also, as you can see, the dowel has been missing for some time. A replacement is on the way.
a new lower thrust washer,
and gasket.
The upper thrust washer was in spec so I left it in.
Also, as you can see, the dowel has been missing for some time. A replacement is on the way.
rockfarmer
501 Club
While assembling the front spindles, I noticed the right knuckle has coarse threads and the left has fine threads.
Also, the right knuckle has a 3/8" course threaded hole on the inside while the left has a 7/16" fine threaded hole on the inside. Is this Normal?
Because of the different threads, I was only able to use one of those fancy tapered bolts. I need to get a course one for the right side. What is the best "plug" for the inside knuckle hole? The one with no tapered hole. Hex head bolt, Allen head plug?
Also, the right knuckle has a 3/8" course threaded hole on the inside while the left has a 7/16" fine threaded hole on the inside. Is this Normal?
Because of the different threads, I was only able to use one of those fancy tapered bolts. I need to get a course one for the right side. What is the best "plug" for the inside knuckle hole? The one with no tapered hole. Hex head bolt, Allen head plug?
Hi,
What you described is not normal, or not original.
If one side has coarse threads, and one side has fine threads, someone has replaced a steering arm.
A 1949 Cub came with coarse thread arms. IH changed to the fine threads at Cub serial number 118688, which was in 1950, like it shows in the TM Tractor listing below. They are 1/2" setscrews, it says.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/563fp.htm
The fine thread setscrew was 1/2 inch also, it says.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/487fp.htm
The 1949 Cub parts manual gives no size for the setscrew, but says it's a 1/2" locknut used on the setscrew.
I'm not sure if you mean the taper in the hole is worn bigger on the one shaft.
If the taper in the shaft is worn out bigger, it is possibly from the tractor being used with the setscrew loose, or someone made the taper bigger.
The setscrews need tightening during use, they wear some and get loose in the tapers.
I don't know what you want to do, TM Tractor has square head coarse thread setscrews too.
What you described is not normal, or not original.
If one side has coarse threads, and one side has fine threads, someone has replaced a steering arm.
A 1949 Cub came with coarse thread arms. IH changed to the fine threads at Cub serial number 118688, which was in 1950, like it shows in the TM Tractor listing below. They are 1/2" setscrews, it says.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/563fp.htm
The fine thread setscrew was 1/2 inch also, it says.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/487fp.htm
The 1949 Cub parts manual gives no size for the setscrew, but says it's a 1/2" locknut used on the setscrew.
I'm not sure if you mean the taper in the hole is worn bigger on the one shaft.
If the taper in the shaft is worn out bigger, it is possibly from the tractor being used with the setscrew loose, or someone made the taper bigger.
The setscrews need tightening during use, they wear some and get loose in the tapers.
I don't know what you want to do, TM Tractor has square head coarse thread setscrews too.
rockfarmer":5pwfy3wv said:
If you want to hide the extra hole, you could easily Loctite a small piece of threaded bolt into the hole and cover it with JB or Bondo and then touch up with paint.
Hi,
The TM Tractor pics below, show that the arms originally came with one setscrew each, facing out from the tractor.
The arm in their pics has no inner hole drilled in it.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gst ... lb_001.htm
I guess yours have holes drilled in them on the inner side, do they have threads, if so, someone was probably trying to make the arms anchored stronger.
The TM Tractor pics below, show that the arms originally came with one setscrew each, facing out from the tractor.
The arm in their pics has no inner hole drilled in it.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gst ... lb_001.htm
I guess yours have holes drilled in them on the inner side, do they have threads, if so, someone was probably trying to make the arms anchored stronger.
AL Farmall Boy
501 Club
rockfarmer":2e44qjrs said:
How did you know what the spec was supposed to be? Is that in a manual somewhere, or did you simply just measure the shaft with calipers and then measure the bushing?
rockfarmer
501 Club
AL Farmall Boy":1plv1wwx said:
https://partstore.caseih.com/us/wilcoeq ... 4450377-18
I did not write down the number I observed when measuring, but it was very close to the ID mentioned in the parts catalog link above. #18
AL Farmall Boy
501 Club
Ok. I have a friend that is fixing a Cub where I'm trying to help him figure out if his bushing are within spec or too far out. I'll make a seperate (searchable) post about it.