Picked up a John Deere BO at auction

[ricky racer]

Found a starter solenoid that would work for a test. Just put some fuel in the carb bowl and gave it a try. It runs. Nice to finally get some signs of life.

Picks 'em off pretty good!! I love those old 2 cylinder tractors!!

 

[cjet69]

Picks 'em off pretty good!! I love those old 2 cylinder tractors!!

I was also happy to see it had about 12 psi oil pressure. I think these are supposed to run at 10-15 psi.

 

[Barebones]

Found a starter solenoid that would work for a test. Just put some fuel in the carb bowl and gave it a try. It runs. Nice to finally get some signs of life.

That's progress! I'm sure that was music to your ears.

 

[cjet69]

I decided to pull the clutch pulley so I could repack the outer bearing (pic #4). They recommend doing this yearly but most only get neglected for long periods of time. With the pulley removed I could check the first reduction gear. Sometimes they are loose on the splines and will wobble around. This one moved some but didn't seem to be loose on the splines. I removed the outer bearing cover on the first reduction gear shaft and found it was free ballin' allowing the outer shaft to move. I'm going to pull the fender and reduction gear cover to check the inner bearing.

 

[cjet69]

Pulled the fender,brake, and first reduction cover. Good thing, it needs a good cleaning and had water in it at one time.

 

[cjet69]

Fired up the cooker and boiled the first reduction cover to start the cleanup. I will wire brush or sandblast the outside and probably paint it before it goes back on. Found a good bearing that was from the parts john deere BR tractor. Now to clean up the tractor side of the crankcase.

 

[cjet69]

Used the wire wheel for most of the cleanup and the blast cabinet to get into some of the tight corners. Then treated it with Ospho.

 

[cjet69]

Shot some epoxy primer on the first reduction cover.

 

[cjet69]

I managed to pull the first reduction gear off the splined shaft and put it in the cooker. Cleaned up pretty good. Started cleaning the side of the case and got the first layer off. I'll finish that up tomorrow. Noticed what appears to be a couple rust holes in the R.H. Diff shaft bearing cover. I need to make up an order for the JD dealer and see if they can still get those along with several gaskets.

 

[cjet69]

Cleaned what I could of the rest of the oil/grease. Then wire brushed back away from where the first reduction cover bolts down. Treated with Ospho and will prime and cut in some green paint.

 

[cjet69]

The Ospho dried so I shot some epoxy.

 

[ricky racer]

I love the taper splined shafts that John Deere uses on the old 2 cylinder tractors. When you'll pulling the gears off of the shafts you don't have to fight it all the way off of the shaft. Once you pop it loose, it's loose!

 

[cjet69]

I love the taper splined shafts that John Deere uses on the old 2 cylinder tractors. When you'll pulling the gears off of the shafts you don't have to fight it all the way off of the shaft. Once you pop it loose, it's loose!

Sometimes it takes a lot of pressure before they let go. On the fist reduction gear I put some good pressure on the snap-on puller and hit the end of the screw with a hammer. If it doesn't come loose I add a few more turns and try again.

 

[dreece]

Sometimes it takes a lot of pressure before they let go. On the fist reduction gear I put some good pressure on the snap-on puller and hit the end of the screw with a hammer. If it doesn't come loose I add a few more turns and try
Engine& Transmission

Sometimes it takes a lot of pressure before they let go. On the fist reduction gear I put some good pressure on the snap-on puller and hit the end of the screw with a hammer. If it doesn't come loose I add a few more turns and try again.

It always makes me a bit nervous until that first pop!

 

[cjet69]

It always makes me a bit nervous until that first pop!

And make sure you don't let the part fly off on the ground.

 

[cjet69]

Sprayed green today and ordered a couple gaskets but not sure if they will be the right ones. Gasket number in the parts book doesn't come up on the dealer computer as what it should be.....?????

 

[Jim Becker]

And make sure you don't let the part fly off on the ground.

Or worse, on your foot.

 

[cjet69]

Cleaned and primed the clutch fork assy. The pulley brake arm (1st pic) had some wear in it so I drilled it out and ordered some bushings that should tighten it up.

 

[cjet69]

Back in post #209 I showed a pic of the R.H. Diff shaft bearing cover with a few rust holes in it. The dealer said its NLA so I started searching online with no luck finding anything this size, approx. 3.144" dia. I have a parts 1937 parts BR that has a good cup/plug but didn't want to drain the lube out of a seemingly good trans/rear end at this time. My reminded me of a 1941 trans/rear end housing I was given years ago sitting next to the barn grown over with blackberries. The guy I got it from had gutted the trans and rear end for parts to restore an early BO. Figured everything would be gone but the diff and cup were still in it. Pulled the rear axle casting off and hauled the rest to the shop in the Gator. Used an aluminum bearing/seal driver the right size and tapped the cup out without damage. Just need to remove the one from the BO and get it swapped.