Farmall Cub Touch Control Block Rebuild

Hi,
In your picture on page 2 of this post of the Touch Control, showing the block, they don't all have the parts in the rectangle and square. I think only the early Touch Controls had those parts.

In the post Dale posted on page 2, about the newer Touch Control, he is talking about the filter being 1/8" too long. My opinion is it is supposed to be like that, so when you put the head on, it squishes the filter endways slightly, and seals the metal ends of the filter.
The older style blocks may have the same thing happen, there is 1 filter sold at TM Tractor Parts for the newer or older blocks.
I wasn't there at IH when they made the Touch Control, so I'm not sure if that is right, about the squishing endways.
Maybe Jim B. will say.
Below are pages from the Cub and LoBoy parts manual showing the older style of Touch Control.
I don't know if they have all the pages with the info you posted.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 10 - Hydraulics/Page 10-02.jpg

https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 10 - Hydraulics/Page 10-03.jpg

https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Parts Manuals/TC-37F Revision 3/Group 10 - Hydraulics/Page 10-04.jpg

I see after posting the above that Bob McCarty answered about the strainer below. :)
 
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Dale and I measured OEM and Steiner filters at Deep South years ago. They matched almost exactly and are designed to be a squish fit. The older filters didn't have the "hardware cloth" lining to prevent them from collapsing as easily. All the new ones I've seen do have that.
 
Hey fellas I need some help. I started to work on my touch control but after I took the bolts out I can not get the cover off??? Why will it not come off? 1000000958.jpg
 
I tried using a rubber mallet around the perimeter and then I was tapping on it with a hammer, yet it still won't budge.
 
I had one where I had to drive a thin chisel in a corner to get the pieces to separate. It caused a little roll in the cast metal that was easily smoothed with a file.
 
Bob McCarty said:
I had one where I had to drive a thin chisel in a corner to get the pieces to separate. It caused a little roll in the cast metal that was easily smoothed with a file.
Click to expand...
Ok I will try that. It just seems like it's glued together you would think it would just fall off. I do have all the right bolts removed correct?
 
There are no "hidden" bolts, you have them all removed. I think you'll find when the bottom is off that the gasket will require some elbow grease to remove it after being there for years.
 
Bob McCarty said:
I had one where I had to drive a thin chisel in a corner to get the pieces to separate. It caused a little roll in the cast metal that was easily smoothed with a file.
Click to expand...
Ok I will try that. It just seems like it's glued together you would think it would just fall off. I do have all the right bolts removed correct
Bob McCarty said:
There are no "hidden" bolts, you have them all removed. I think you'll find when the bottom is off that the gasket will require some elbow grease to remove it after being there for years.
Click to expand...
Ok I just want to ask those who are more familiar with taking these apart than I am before I messed something up. Thanks again for your quick response and I will try what you suggested tomorrow and leave you know how it works.
 
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How do you get this piece out in the top hole? This is the top hole on the front of the unit where the rock shaft is. It seems loose but it will not come out, I tried grabbing onto it from the front and then I put a coat hanger through the back to try and push it out but it will not come out.
 
1000000968.pngdoes anyone know where I can get another one of these O rings in the pic above? I pushed the rod in too far and it got cut by one of the holes. I found 1 piece of the O ring in the open part of the resivoir and the other piece is no where to be found.
 
You might call and ask if they'll put it in an envelope and mail it as "non-machinable", that's usually about $1.00. I googled the part # and didn't find a cheaper price. Also checked McMaster-Carr and it's an odd size that they don't have.
 
Bob McCarty said:
You might call and ask if they'll put it in an envelope and mail it as "non-machinable", that's usually about $1.00. I googled the part # and didn't find a cheaper price. Also checked McMaster-Carr and it's an odd size that they don't have.
Click to expand...
Ok I will give TM a call tomorrow.
 
Put plenty of new Hy-Tran fluid on the o rings, and on the valves when installing new o rings.
Put Hy-Tran in the bores when putting the valves in the block.
Maybe you knew this already, or it was said in another post. :)
 
Glen said:
Put plenty of new Hy-Tran fluid on the o rings, and on the valves when installing new o rings.
Put Hy-Tran in the bores when putting the valves in the block.
Maybe you knew this already, or it was said in another post. :)
Click to expand...
Yes I soaked the o rings when installing them. I damaged mine because I put the valve control in before I put the back plate on so when I pushed it in, it caught them slid past the one port hole and cut the O ring. I told the fellas in a earlier post that it cut 2 pieces of the side of the O ring and I found 1 bigger pieces but the small piece is nowhere. I looked all thru everything I could see and used a small inspection camera and still could not locate it. It's a small piece I don't think it will cause issues at least that's what I hope. I did repaint the touch control, rock shaft, and rock shaft caps so far.
 
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