Farmall Cub Touch Control Block Rebuild

Hey guys, while I'm waiting on my new O rings I figured I'd rebuild the hydraulic pump. Everything went fine but when I was done I noticed when I turn the shaft by hand I can feel the gears meshing together. Is that normal?
 
Hi,
I'm not sure about your question.
The pump is supposed to have a lock washer that you bend, at the pump gear nut.
There is a tab that sticks into the shaft keyway, made on the washer. If the tab is broken off the washer, the washer needs replacing, because there would be nothing to keep the nut and washer from turning.
I just wanted to mention it, I don't think it was discussed on your post before.
Below is a picture of the washer from TM Tractor Parts.
 

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Hi,
I'm not sure about your question.
The pump is supposed to have a lock washer that you bend, at the pump gear nut.
There is a tab that sticks into the shaft keyway, made on the washer. If the tab is broken off the washer, the washer needs replacing, because there would be nothing to keep the nut and washer from turning.
I just wanted to mention it, I don't think it was discussed on your post before.
Below is a picture of the washer from TM Tractor Parts.
Yes I got the washer bent up to lock the but in. I meant that when I turn the shaft by hand I can feel the gears inside the pump running against each other some. Like it feels a little tighter in spots as gear run against one another.
 
I meant I'm not sure how the pump feels to turn it by hand.
The pin seal is only used on some of the pumps, some of them don't use it.
The instruction sheet that it shows at the pump gasket kit at TM Tractor Parts shows which pumps use it.
They use the pump makers number, Pesco, stamped in the pump to identify which pumps use the pin seal.
Below is the listing at TM Tractor Parts for the pump gasket kit. It shows 6 Pesco numbers of pumps were used. 3 of them use the pin seal, the table on the last page shows.
 
I turned two, one rebuilt and one needing a rebuild. Neither made noticeable sound. If you install and it doesn't pump, you'll have to drain the manifold lines and lose some fluid. Did you follow a rebuild video in the "how to" forum?
 
I turned two, one rebuilt and one needing a rebuild. Neither made noticeable sound. If you install and it doesn't pump, you'll have to drain the manifold lines and lose some fluid. Did you follow a rebuild video in the "how to" forum?
Yes and I watched a few videos on YouTube as well. I believe it is together correctly. Mine doesn't make a sound when turning by hand but I can feel the gears.
 
Well I finally got my o rings today. Got everything back together and just need to put fluid on and try it out. Touch control, lines and pump look real nice all clean and painted.
 
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Well I got it all done, tried it out for awhile and it seems to be ok. It appears to leak just a tiny amount between the two halves of the hydraulic pump. It also seems to be leaking a very small amount where the hydraulic lines attack to the touch control as well. I tried to tighten the pump and lines up a little more and I will see how that goes. Now my gas line is starting to leak some, opinons on changing it to a rubber gas line?
 
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Well I got it all done, tried it out for awhile and it seems to be ok. It appears to leak just a tiny amount between the two halves of the hydraulic pump. It also seems to be leaking a very small amount where the hydraulic lines attack to the touch control as well. I tried to tighten the pump and lines up a little more and I will see how that goes. Now my gas line is starting to leak some, opinons on changing it to a rubber gas line?
Most recommendations on replacement is use a 5/16 steel brake line, available at auto parts stores. Same size fittings (1/2 x 20) and not have the possible fire hazard of a rubber line. There's some ideas at the HOW TO forum. JMHO Stan
 
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