Stay 6 or go 12??

All of mine are 12V, but they all still have the 6V starter. Actually the F300 from the PO was 8V on a 6V system.
Why did I do it? Boss Hog told me to switch the Cub to 12V and then do electronic ignition. I didn't question, just did it and did the others.
They are correct a properly tunned 6V starts just fine. But a properly tunned 12V starts really quick also. The F100 and F300 I just hit the ignition and they are running. Cub is pretty quick also. The F200 is ok, but I'm going to be tearing into here in the next month or so and repainting it, but the PO already changed it over.

You need to start a thread asking about spark plugs or what oil to use next :)
 
4HFARMS said:
So, I have a ‘53 that I’m gonna restore after my bone marrow transplant that is still 6 volt. I’m also getting another just like it that was originally owned by the brother of my ’53. It is also still 6 volt. Neither are running and haven’t for many years.
In the opinions of yall that know way more than me… would you leave them 6 or upgrade to 12?

Phil
Click to expand...
 
I'm not of big fan of 6 volt on anything, but my 48 cub is still 6 volt...I had to buy a new starter a few years back and that did make a big difference in cranking the engine, compared to the old starter...my biggest problem was getting a good connection with the saddle switch...I have a 45 Willys MB jeep that I got tired of tired of crossing my fingers and hoping that it was going to start, because it was 6 volt..so I went to 12 volt, and now it fires up every time.
 
Waif said:
I recall a wire hanger on the right side under the tanks edge that wanted a purpose.
Click to expand...
Hi,
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the wiring, and battery cable routing, with the 6 volt system. Cubs changed to 12 volts can use the same battery cable routing, if you have the 6 volt starter.
The center drawing on the 1st page shows the battery cable routing. Number 2 is the battery cable.
There are originally 4 holders for the wiring, and battery cable along the right side, under the edge of the hood. Numbers 13, and 14 are clips to hold the wiring and cable. They come off, there are nuts welded on the back of them. The nut on number 13 uses a screw that holds the hood to the dash. If the clip isn't there, there would be no nut for the screw there.
2 clips are welded on, under the gas tank.
With this routing, the wiring isn't seen much, and probably doesn't get caught on things.
The numbers in the picture on the 1st page are explained on the 2nd page.
The 2nd page has a picture of how the 1955 Cub originally looked with the hood off. :)
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Owner's Manuals/McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 12-20-55/Page 49.jpg

 
4HFARMS said:
So, I have a ‘53 that I’m gonna restore after my bone marrow transplant that is still 6 volt. I’m also getting another just like it that was originally owned by the brother of my ’53. It is also still 6 volt. Neither are running and haven’t for many years.
In the opinions of yall that know way more than me… would you leave them 6 or upgrade to 12?

Phil
Click to expand...
I prefer keeping them 6v. The secret to 6v systems is to use BIG battery cables, have good grounds, and if your starter hasn't been serviced in 50 years, take it to a good shop and have it gone through.

That said, the nice thing about a Cub is you can hide the alternator under the hood if you go 12 volt. There is a special place in the infernal regions for people that cut sheet metal to install an alternator!

Al
 
Glen said:
Hi,
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub operator's manual, showing the wiring, and battery cable routing, with the 6 volt system. Cubs changed to 12 volts can use the same battery cable routing, if you have the 6 volt starter.
The center drawing on the 1st page shows the battery cable routing. Number 2 is the battery cable.
There are originally 4 holders for the wiring, and battery cable along the right side, under the edge of the hood. Numbers 13, and 14 are clips to hold the wiring and cable. They come off, there are nuts welded on the back of them. The nut on number 13 uses a screw that holds the hood to the dash. If the clip isn't there, there would be no nut for the screw there.
2 clips are welded on, under the gas tank.
With this routing, the wiring isn't seen much, and probably doesn't get caught on things.
The numbers in the picture on the 1st page are explained on the 2nd page.
The 2nd page has a picture of how the 1955 Cub originally looked with the hood off. :)
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub Owner's Manuals/McCormick Farmall Cub Operator's Manual 12-20-55/Page 49.jpg

Click to expand...

Right at the shield by the clutch pedal where the cable is supposed to go up is where all cables I've noticed go straight to towards the starter instead.
( Perhaps due to shortened cables when corroded ends get cut off repeatedly over time? )

Per diagram.
[Battery cable assembled as shown to clear operators foot when depressing clutch pedal.]
In front of the shield against the junction of operator floorboard and tractor tube is where I found the insulation damaged on one improperly routed cable.
Might be the 48 Cub that had the broken torque tube someone had scab welded with patch pieces. The tractor has had a rough life at times.
 
I feel that if the battery cables are right size ,starter good, wiring good ,generator good , engine compression good ,carburetor good , fuel supply clean , and well maintenance .
Stay six volt . With 6:1compression I don’t see any need to go to the extra expensive conversion to 12 volt.
You have an 550 amps in the six volt the starter only needs max about 125+amp or less . That will start it no problem .
 
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