Stay 6 or go 12??

4HFARMS

4HFARMS

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So, I have a ‘53 that I’m gonna restore after my bone marrow transplant that is still 6 volt. I’m also getting another just like it that was originally owned by the brother of my ’53. It is also still 6 volt. Neither are running and haven’t for many years.
In the opinions of yall that know way more than me… would you leave them 6 or upgrade to 12?

Phil
 
That is a question you will have to answer for yourself! Purist like to leave them as originally equipped, others, such as myself, prefer the advantages of swapping to 12 volts. How much of a purist are you?
 
As Gary said, that choice is up to you. Myself, I like the robust, simple and reliable 6 volt system. The one thing most complain about with a 6 volt system is poor cranking power. Typically that stems from poor connections and or battery cables in poor condition.

You may want to let your pocketbook make the decision for you. If the starter and generator are in good working order, just upgrade their battery cables using #2 welding cable or buy some heavy gauge premade cables. I make my own by soldering the cable ends to the welding cable.

If your starter and or generator are in poor condition or not working, the general opinion of those on this site is, 12 volt components are less expensive than their 6 volt alternatives so that may dictate which direction you choose to proceed. Keep in mind though that your 6 volt components can be rebuilt.

Here's a video I made of my '53 Cub.

 
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ricky racer said:
As Gary said, that choice is up to you. Myself, I like the robust, simple and reliable 6 volt system. The one thing most complain about with a 6 volt system is poor cranking power. Typically that stems from poor connections and or battery cables in poor condition.

You may want to let your pocketbook make the decision for you. If the starter and generator are in good working order, just upgrade their battery cables using #2 welding cable or buy some heavy gauge premade cables. I make my own by soldering the cable ends to the welding cable.

If your starter and or generator are in poor condition or not working, the general opinion of those on this site is, 12 volt components are less expensive than their 6 volt alternatives so that may dictate which direction you choose to proceed.

Here's a video I made of my '53 Cub.

Click to expand...


Where'd you route that cable?
 
I think your mind was already made up. You used the word upgrade not change to. Mine is still 6 volt and I see no reason to change. If you want 12 volt go for it. They are your tractors.

Ricky, 12 volt actually will work with smaller cables than 6 volt because the ampreage will be cut in half. The 6 volt cables shoule work fine with 12 volt.

Vern
 
v w said:
I think your mind was already made up. You used the word upgrade not change to. Mine is still 6 volt and I see no reason to change. If you want 12 volt go for it. They are your tractors.

Ricky, 12 volt actually will work with smaller cables than 6 volt because the ampreage will be cut in half. The 6 volt cables shoule work fine with 12 volt.

Vern
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Well, if you say so. Ha. But really, this is all new to me so I really don’t have a preference. I was in the high end car audio scene for a bunch of years so I know 12 volt very well. I know little about 6 volt. I was asking opinions but if I can figure out if the old stuff will work, I’m not opposed to leaving it 6 as long as batteries are affordable.
 
I agree with Ricky Racer about letting your pocketbook make the choice. While 6v can be repaired/rebuilt, the overall cost of 12v is generally less, especially if you have to replace major components. Good/dependable VR is either expensive and/or NLA and you're stuck with a 6v starter either way since the 12v starter will not fit unless your tractors engines have been replaced with the R8 block. 12v self exciting/internal regulating alternator beats out the 6v gen/regulator by a long shot and costs significantly less. JMHO Stan
 
4HFARMS said:
Well, if you say so. Ha. But really, this is all new to me so I really don’t have a preference. I was in the high end car audio scene for a bunch of years so I know 12 volt very well. I know little about 6 volt. I was asking opinions but if I can figure out if the old stuff will work, I’m not opposed to leaving it 6 as long as batteries are affordable.
Click to expand...
If you live in a region that has Rural King stores, their battery prices are hard to beat and the quality is as good as any.
 
staninlowerAL said:
I agree with Ricky Racer about letting your pocketbook make the choice. While 6v can be repaired/rebuilt, the overall cost of 12v is generally less, especially if you have to replace major components. Good/dependable VR is either expensive and/or NLA and you're stuck with a 6v starter either way since the 12v starter will not fit unless your tractors engines have been replaced with the R8 block. 12v self exciting/internal regulating alternator beats out the 6v gen/regulator by a long shot and costs significantly less. JMHO Stan
Click to expand...
Why do you need a r8 block to use a 12 volt starter ? I have never heard of this ??
 
When I worked on a tobacco farm with a mixed bag of Farmalls (B, BN, 140, cubs, Hs, Cs and Super Cs) using 6 and 12 volts I was told that the differences between a 6v vs 12v starter is bunk in the sense you don't spin them long enough for an "over voltage" to do anything. I remember hot swapping starters in the field all the time. But maybe I'm wrong?

As far as a 6 volt system in general, if it ain't broke don't fix it. My Super A is still a 6v magneto and it pops off right away, it's all about making sure your ignition is tuned up and the generator is working. Most of the farmers I knew threw 12 volt systems on to make up for poor maintenance and loose engines that would make starting with the slower revolutions of a 6 volt difficult.

But if your 6volt system is fubar, then I can understand going the easier route and doing 12 unless you're into the "purity" aspect of it. It's nice to able to jump start and charge batteries if everything is 12.
 
Do your tractors have magnetos? If they do, and you like the ability to start them with a hand crank, you will need to keep the magnetos for both 6v and 12v systems.
 
I have several earlier tractors that the 12 volt starter fits and the biggest problem you need to change the engine water inlet to a later one that has a flat spot on the elbow to give the larger diameter starter clearance.
Wm
 
Jonathan said:
Why do you need a r8 block to use a 12 volt starter ? I have never heard of this ??
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There have been posts about this on here lately. I have posted info about it.
IH changed Cubs to 12 volts in mid 1964. The 12 volt Delco starter is a slightly bigger diameter than the 6 volt starter. They changed the engine block at the lower oil filter housing area, to make more room for the bigger diameter starter. That is what the 251341R8 block has.
The 12 volt system also uses a lower water elbow with a dent cast in it, to make room for the starter.
The 12 volt starter doesn't have a pull rod, they use a large push button switch on the dash.
Later they changed to a key start switch, and a solenoid.
The 12 volt starter uses different length battery cables than the 6 volt starter. :)
 
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Converted 6v generator on 12v on the 63…no issues in the 40 years since conversion.
6v starter running on 12v for 50 years is superior to the 12v starter.
Little baby 12v alternator is Ok, but gets funky when the battery terminals get the slightest bit of corrosion.
I’m a 12v advocate. Nothing else I own is 6v.
If I bought another cub…it would transition to 12v…
 
ricky racer said:
It's routed just the same as the original one was, down under the floorboard, up by the dash and over to the starter.
Click to expand...

Ahh ha!
Up the dashboard.
That would explain the clutch pedal bite on one I replaced.
And my other Cub is routed along the torque tube too...
I recall a wire hanger on the right side under the tanks edge that wanted a purpose.

T.Y. Ricky!
 
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