Carb replacement

[gawiley]

It has been sometime that I've been having carb issues and decided to place what I had. I have a 1950 farmall cub engine serial number 101199. I called Steiner and they said that the cub needed a international carb. However it keeps flooding. I am on my second one and both flood after turning the engine over. Should I have a Zeneth Carb or what am I doing wrong. The Steiner carb is not cheap. My cub did have a zeneth carb prior to replacing with an international carb. PLease help

[Matt Kirsch]

What do you mean by "flooding?"

If fuel is running out of the carb on the ground and will not stop, that means the float, needle, seat mechanism got messed up in shipment.

How are you applying choke? Don't "set it and forget it." These tractors only need a quick application of choke to start, with a possible additional blip or two during the first few seconds of cold running. Leaving the choke on will generally cause the engine to flood, causing some fuel to drip out of the carb on to the ground, but it will stop after a couple of seconds.

The Zenith carb was designed as a replacement for the IH carb and they work interchangeably. What problems were you having with the Zenith that prompted you to swap it out for an IH carb?

[Don McCombs]

If your replacement carb is a Chinese repro, from any source, this may help...

CHINESE REPRO CARBURETORS FROM EBAY.pdf

(209.2 KiB) Downloaded 229 times

[gawiley]

Yes, I was choking but will not so much now. Yes the fuel would run or drip. Once the tractor is turned over the fuel stops running out the over flow. I would assume vacuum is happening. I will attempt to adjust the choke.
Early in the summer the cub had a serious lack of power. I had the mag rebuilt but it only helped a small amount. I assumed that the carb needed rebuilt or replaced. I can upon some extra cash and thought I’d replace the carb. Hence now I’ve been battling this issue for way longer than I’ve ever wanted to deal with this.
I’ve check the float and needle. Both are fine. It must be that the float needs adjusted to shut fuel off.
After reading some info on this site it seems that I may have wasted some money on a new carb. Many people are saying a good cleaning goes a long way to getting the carb to work well.

[Matt Kirsch]

There are lots of things beyond carb and magneto that are far more likely to be the cause of your lack of power. Carburetor issues usually show themselves as run quality issues, not "runs fine but has a general lack of power."

Have you done a compression check? Adjusted the valves? Made sure the governor is engaging properly?

[gawiley]

No to to all 3. Once I stop the fuel flow i'll check these if still no power. I will be adjusting the float. Fairly sure that will be the difference maker

[gawiley]

Oh ya, it was not running fine prior and a very hard start.

[Eugene]

There are lots of things beyond carb and magneto that are far more likely to be the cause of your lack of power. Carburetor issues usually show themselves as run quality issues, not "runs fine but has a general lack of power."

Have you done a compression check? Adjusted the valves? Made sure the governor is engaging properly?

Ditto.

Early in the summer the cub had a serious lack of power. I had the mag rebuilt but it only helped a small amount. I assumed that the carb needed rebuilt or replaced.

Save some cash.

Conduct a 100% engine tune up. Start with compression tests and valve tappets. Then ignition followed by fuel.

[Clemsonfor]

Yes, I was choking but will not so much now. Yes the fuel would run or drip. Once the tractor is turned over the fuel stops running out the over flow. I would assume vacuum is happening. I will attempt to adjust the choke.
Early in the summer the cub had a serious lack of power. I had the mag rebuilt but it only helped a small amount. I assumed that the carb needed rebuilt or replaced. I can upon some extra cash and thought I’d replace the carb. Hence now I’ve been battling this issue for way longer than I’ve ever wanted to deal with this.
I’ve check the float and needle. Both are fine. It must be that the float needs adjusted to shut fuel off.
After reading some info on this site it seems that I may have wasted some money on a new carb. Many people are saying a good cleaning goes a long way to getting the carb to work well.

Yes these old simple carbs are pretty much infinity rebuild able unless you smash it with a hammer trying to free the stuck needle, break internal parts of the casting or have something seriously wallowed out.

[gawiley]

Ok, it’s March and I am now picking up on getting this Cub running. I have reverted back to original carb but it it not mounted in the tractor yet. I wanted to check the valves as I noticed that my spark plugs were dry no matter how much I cranked the engine. The valves are all moving and they look good. Any suggestions why I’m not getting fuel into the cylinders?

[staninlowerAL]

As previously suggested do a compression test (dry and wet). If you have fuel in the carb and there's no pluging, maybe the compression is low enough that the fuel is not being pulled into the cylinders. (Fuel+air+spark at the right time=ignition). JMHO Stan

[Bill V in Md]

Sounds like you are getting gas into the carb. Sounds like your valves are opening. If you have decent compression, you should have enough vacuum to pull gasoline into the cylinders. Two things: 1) Have you checked your compression as was suggested?, and 2) Do you have your carb float adjusted properly?