Tst also makes a decal overlay that restores all the printing and background except the SN and rpm speed. It wouldn't be as pretty as a new one, but an option.
R.O.C.K Restoration Project
- Thread starter rockfarmer
- Start date
Stalkcutter
Well-known member
I agree with Bob, Those overlay decals (by TST) look great! So simple to apply the decal.
Much easier than removing the SN plate you have and replacing it with a new one.
Stalkcutter
Hi,
Below is the first style of Cub serial number plate at TM Tractor. They say it was used until 1950. You can look carefully at the stamped numbers on yours, and see where they would fit on the plate.
It looks like it is the first style of plate.
Yours says F CUB for the model.
The next style of plate has the numbers in different positions.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/101fp.htm
We had a 1949 Cub here that was newer some than yours, and it had the first style of plate.
Below is the next style of plate.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/265fp.htm
Below is the first style of Cub serial number plate at TM Tractor. They say it was used until 1950. You can look carefully at the stamped numbers on yours, and see where they would fit on the plate.
It looks like it is the first style of plate.
Yours says F CUB for the model.
The next style of plate has the numbers in different positions.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/101fp.htm
We had a 1949 Cub here that was newer some than yours, and it had the first style of plate.
Below is the next style of plate.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/265fp.htm
rockfarmer
501 Club
Thank you all for the information...looks like Rocky was manufactured in mid 1949 and according to Raymond's database, there is a Cub with a later serial number sporting the McCormick - Deering Decal. That's good.
Just ordered one of these http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/101fp.htm
I also learned that ROCK is handling the emblem/logo. They want to attach it to the tractor permanently, so I'm thinking radiator grill sides.
Just ordered one of these http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/101fp.htm
I also learned that ROCK is handling the emblem/logo. They want to attach it to the tractor permanently, so I'm thinking radiator grill sides.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Back to the fun stuff!
I noticed faint signs of oil sling-age stains on the fan blades, indicating a leak somewhere. I followed the manuals directions for filling, then draining the oil and afterwards, noticed this,
so, apart she came,
Cleaned everything with solvent,
and measured the bushing,
The gaskets looked good and intact, any ideas why she is leaking? Is the bushing worn out?
I noticed faint signs of oil sling-age stains on the fan blades, indicating a leak somewhere. I followed the manuals directions for filling, then draining the oil and afterwards, noticed this,
so, apart she came,
Cleaned everything with solvent,
and measured the bushing,
The gaskets looked good and intact, any ideas why she is leaking? Is the bushing worn out?
Don McCombs
501 Club
As you've no doubt discovered, there is no oil seal on the fan shaft. The system relies on the internal standpipe and centrifugal force to keep the oil in. A little leakage immediately after filling is normal, especially with the fan not installed.
rockfarmer
501 Club
In following the service manual, I plan to reassemble the fan this way,
Question; Does the small gasket, laying on the manual, belong with this fan?
Question; Does the small gasket, laying on the manual, belong with this fan?
rockfarmer
501 Club
That link sums it up pretty good!
So, this is how I will reassemble the "centrifugal pump", looking from the front of the tractor,
If this is not correct, please let me know.
Question; Is the washer for the oil level screw an O ring?
So, this is how I will reassemble the "centrifugal pump", looking from the front of the tractor,
If this is not correct, please let me know.
Question; Is the washer for the oil level screw an O ring?
Looks like you have it right. Backwards 6.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Stalkcutter":d4sh6ru8 said:
Smart design... If we had not replaced the bolster with a new one, this is definitely an option we would consider. The original plate, however, is still on the original bolster. I had planned to remove it and give it to the new owner. One of the few "procrastinated" projects still left to do.
rockfarmer
501 Club
Now for that procrastinated PTO cover install. I have yet to install since Glen pointed out earlier in this thread, two of the bolt holes have some thread erosion. Top left and mid right. Here is what they look like after chasing with a tap,
I planned on inserting coils, but after cleaning and procrastinating, some more, want to know what y'all think? Extra thread sealant? Insert a coil?
I planned on inserting coils, but after cleaning and procrastinating, some more, want to know what y'all think? Extra thread sealant? Insert a coil?
Dale Finch
501 Club
I would think as long as you use the correct length bolt (to use as many threads as possible), that would be enough. You shouldn't need any sealant, since none of those bolt holes goes through into the fluid area. Gasket does it all.
k hutchins
501 Club
I would go ahead and use a thread lock sealer just to insure you're locked in on allthe threads that are there and filling any gaps where the threads might be worn. MTC
Hi,
In the TC-37F Cub parts manual, a 353936R2 is a Gasket Distributor, it goes between the distributor and the base. You can look in the manual, it shows where it goes in the pic.
The manual I have does not have the R3 gasket. You could call your Case IH dealer and ask if that number gasket goes on the distributor.
The parts manual says the seal for the fan hub oil screw is a 27948R1 Ring, 1/4 Rectangular Seal. There may be a newer part number, call your dealer and ask if you want.
I hope you have not been doing all the work to the Cub without a parts manual.
Below is the Cub parts manual.
http://www.farmallcub.info/galleries/ci ... _Rev_3.asp
In the TC-37F Cub parts manual, a 353936R2 is a Gasket Distributor, it goes between the distributor and the base. You can look in the manual, it shows where it goes in the pic.
The manual I have does not have the R3 gasket. You could call your Case IH dealer and ask if that number gasket goes on the distributor.
The parts manual says the seal for the fan hub oil screw is a 27948R1 Ring, 1/4 Rectangular Seal. There may be a newer part number, call your dealer and ask if you want.
I hope you have not been doing all the work to the Cub without a parts manual.
Below is the Cub parts manual.
http://www.farmallcub.info/galleries/ci ... _Rev_3.asp
rockfarmer
501 Club
The distributor gasket inadvertently found its way into my fan gasket envelope, making a total of three. According to the manuals, there is only two, which caused confusion on my part.
I have been using the GSS-1411 service manual and the CaseIH online parts store, mainly. Just recently discovered the TC 37 manual.
I have been using the GSS-1411 service manual and the CaseIH online parts store, mainly. Just recently discovered the TC 37 manual.
rockfarmer
501 Club
After allowing the paint to dry for 48 hours,
the fan was re-assembled with a backward 6 impeller, or whatever it is called, and a very light coat of aviation sealant on the front gasket.
Ready to be installed.
the fan was re-assembled with a backward 6 impeller, or whatever it is called, and a very light coat of aviation sealant on the front gasket.
Ready to be installed.