International Cub Lo Boy 1967

cb88

Member
Tractor is in pretty ok shape but with a decent amount of minor issues, has a new muffler that is just sitting on the pipe, and someone has been into the distributor I think. Seems to be 12v generator. It has a generic type coil on it not the metal bullet type.

So, I got a timing light and hooked that up, and can NOT see the distributor advancing across the RPM range so something is wrong there? The governor does adjust to the speed according to the throttle but it is not responsive to engine loading and doesn't always go to the selected speed so probably some binding up going on there somewhere. I'm not sure if the advance issue would be in the governor or in the distributor... not quite sure on how that aspect works.

Also the carb probably isn't quite right either as I wasn't able to get it to idle down with the idle screw way out it was still at 650+ rpm in theory is should be able to idle lower than that even if its a bit rougher. Max RPM I have seen when fiddling with the governor linkage was 1800rpm ... the high idle RPM on this one should be 2000 though I think.

Some other things I have noticed on it is the steering box needs adjustment as I understand it this requires removing the cotter pin from the castle nut on the bottom of the steering arm and tightening it which causes it to mesh correctly with the steering column. I think the generator is maybe not charging correctly but I need to investigate further. I think the TC fluid is low will get around to checking that this week sometime. I also need to redrill the seat mount holes because it so far up I can barely get on the tractor lol.

Anyway its a pretty fun project so far, I have an MF65 also for bigger jobs that is getting its power steering cylinder replaced. The low boy is just small enough of a tractor I can trailer it behind my '86 blazer on a 3500lb axle no way I could tow the M65 around. I'm hoping to take the Cub to the Dallas NC cotton ginning days if any of you guys go to that in October!
 

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Looks to be in nice physical condition. I had a problem in the distributor of Karla's LoBoy this year. The advance weights were binding from dirt and corrosion. Caused it to not start at all. I replaced pretty much everything in the ignition system, cleaned the weights and it runs really nice now. The folks here were a huge help in pointing me in the right direction so I'm sure they will be great help to you on this project.
 
Looks to be in nice physical condition. I had a problem in the distributor of Karla's LoBoy this year. The advance weights were binding from dirt and corrosion. Caused it to not start at all. I replaced pretty much everything in the ignition system, cleaned the weights and it runs really nice now. The folks here were a huge help in pointing me in the right direction so I'm sure they will be great help to you on this project.
Yes it is hard to start takes a few tries before it takes. It will fire every time but dies shortly after typically. Mostly just does this when cold.
 
Tractor looks to be all there. Your ignition problems might be easiest solved by taking the distributor off and cleaning it up. Making sure the advance weighs are clean and free and a fresh set of points. I always find it best to tackle one problem at a time. Good luck!
 
That looks like a chinese aftermarket carb. A lot of them that I've opened don't have the float set correctly and they are missing a hole into the air inlet.
 
That looks like a chinese aftermarket carb. A lot of them that I've opened don't have the float set correctly and they are missing a hole into the air inlet.
That is also my suspicion, once I get the governor working 100% thats next on my list to look at. It almost acts like its not getting enough gas when started cold.
 
Seems to be 12v generator.
Hi,
That is what a 1967 LoBoy would originally have. IH made the LoBoys 12 volts, negative ground, beginning in mid 1964. The generators are open, with a fan at the front.

So, I got a timing light and hooked that up, and can NOT see the distributor advancing across the RPM range so something is wrong there?
Part of the spark advance is the shaft the rotor is on, is hollow inside, and fits over the other shaft in the distributor.
The shaft the rotor is on has to be free to turn on the shaft inside it.
It is supposed to be oiled by someone. If nobody oils it, it can get tight and not turn, then the advance doesn't work.
It is sort of common for the shaft the rotor is on to get stuck.
Remove the distributor cap, and see if the rotor will turn back and forth slightly, it only turns a few degrees, if the shaft is stuck it may come loose turning the rotor.
Remove the rotor and put light oil in the end of the shaft, and let it soak in, there should be a felt there. Oil it several times, if the oil soaks in.
Below is a page from a Cub manual showing the distributor, and showing where to oil it.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmal...ry Ignition Packages for Tractors/Page-12.jpg

Some other things I have noticed on it is the steering box needs adjustment as I understand it this requires removing the cotter pin from the castle nut on the bottom of the steering arm and tightening it which causes it to mesh correctly with the steering column.
The nut adjusts the amount of play up and down the shaft the steering arm is on has.
With the front wheels straight ahead, hold the arm and see if it moves up and down.
If it moves, adjusting the nut will remove some of the play.
When adjusting the nut, I would jack up the front of the LoBoy so the weight is off the front wheels, and you can turn the wheels freely from side to side.
You have to loosen the nut on the bolt through the rear of the arm, so the arm will slide on the shaft.
Don't overtighten the large nut, or the steering will bind. It may not be possible to remove all the up and down play of the shaft, the cotter key can only go through the nut and shaft in a few positions.
Turn the steering wheel from side to side, to be sure there isn't any binding.

I think the TC fluid is low will get around to checking that this week sometime.
The Cub and LoBoy operator's manuals say to fill the unit to the filler plug hole, with the arms in the rear, or down position. The fluid rises in the unit as the arms go to the rear. If you fill it with the arms ahead, it will have too much fluid in it.
I sent you a message, you get to it at the upper right of the page. :)
 
OK so I found two small nicks in the pulley on the front marked them with white paint and put my timing light on plug 1... well what I see is WAAY off both marks are maybe 2 in past the pointer which I think is the timing is maybe 30 degrees retarded if the marks were above the pointer that would be too far advanced.

My plug 1 is connected to the distributor where its marked 1 next to it upper right hand side locking from the seat, moving clockwise 3 after that 4 then 2.

That's as much as I dared mess with it tonight.
 
At idle move the distributor until the TDC mark lines up, timing light hooked to #1 wire, full throttle should line up to the other mark
 
At idle move the distributor until the TDC mark lines up, timing light hooked to #1 wire, full throttle should line up to the other mark
Yeah I'm going to double check and make sure I didn't setup anything incorrectly tomorrow evening and adjust it.
 
Below is a page from the Cub and Loboy service manual, showing the timing marks for the engine. They are at the left front of the engine.
Use a timing light, and align mark number 1 with the pointer, when the engine is running at slow idle speed, about 500 RPM.
Use only the pic and the description below it, they are talking about other things on the page.

There are 2 clamps with bolts holding the distributor timing adjustment. 1 bolt is on the engine side of the distributor. I use an open end, or box end wrench, up and down to reach the bolt toward the engine.
You can only turn the bolt a small part of a turn at a time.
 
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Below is a page from the Cub and Loboy service manual, showing the timing marks for the engine. They are at the left front of the engine.
Use a timing light, and align mark number 1 with the pointer, when the engine is running at slow idle speed, about 500 RPM.
Use only the pic and the description below it, they are talking about other things on the page.

There are 2 clamps with bolts holding the distributor timing adjustment. 1 bolt is on the engine side of the distributor. I use an open end, or box end wrench, up and down to reach the bolt toward the engine.
You can only turn the bolt a small part of a turn at a time.
Yes that is exactly what I have marked. I looked at that page last night when looking through the manual.
 
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