Farmall Cub Bolster/ Steering Housing Removal

RunningRed

Well-known member
Hey fellas I again made another post to keep everything organized. I decided to remove the steering housing from the tractor to replace the gaskets and repaint it and the bolster. What is a safe way to remove them? I tried to do some research but I'm confused and a little overwhelmed to how it all comes apart or in what sequence they should be removed?
 
If you want to replace the gasket between the 2 sections you can remove the pin that secures the front axle tube and the axle will drop out so the bolts that hold the lower piece in place can be removed. There's a couple of dial pins there also. This is after the steering arm is removed. No need to completely remove the bolster upper section from the engine unless you want to get to some hard to access areas for cleaning and painting. JMHO Stan
 

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Just a quick update I got the front axle and lower bolster apart. All that's left is to take off the upper part off the engine for painting. It's so greasy I don't see how I can leave it on and do a good job of cleaning it. Is there any reason to leave it on? What do you guys use to remove such grease and oil? Does anyone know what the torque specs are for the bolts that hold the steering housing to the engine? I look all though the manuals on here and I can not find it.
 
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When the lower steering gear housing is off is a good time to replace the oil seal on the steering shaft.
Below is a listing for it at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the picture.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/476fp.htm

Don't hammer directly on a new seal, it can dent the seal. Put flat metal on the seal to hammer on, or use a socket the right size, or a seal driver.
Be sure the seal lip is facing up. Put oil on the seal rubber and shaft when putting it together, so the seal has oil.
Be sure the shaft is clean and flat where the seal runs.
TM Tractor Parts has the gasket for between the halves also. The halves are supposed to have 1 dowel where the gasket is.
If the steering gear bushings are worn any, TM Tractor Parts has new bushings. Worn bushings make free play in the steering, it shows as the free play when turning the steering wheel.
The tie rod ends being loose make free play also.

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts showing where the seal is, it is the shiny part by the hole where the shaft goes.
For others reading this, the lower half has 5 bolts in a circle holding it to the upper half, I would check and tighten the bolts if you haven't lately. They can work loose from use. You can see the bolt holes in the picture below.
 

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When the lower steering gear housing is off is a good time to replace the oil seal on the steering shaft.
Below is a listing for it at TM Tractor Parts, you can look at the picture.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/st/476fp.htm

Don't hammer directly on a new seal, it can dent the seal. Put flat metal on the seal to hammer on, or use a socket the right size, or a seal driver.
Be sure the seal lip is facing up. Put oil on the seal rubber and shaft when putting it together, so the seal has oil.
Be sure the shaft is clean and flat where the seal runs.
TM Tractor Parts has the gasket for between the halves also. The halves are supposed to have 1 dowel where the gasket is.
If the steering gear bushings are worn any, TM Tractor Parts has new bushings. Worn bushings make free play in the steering, it shows as the free play when turning the steering wheel.
The tie rod ends being loose make free play also.

Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts showing where the seal is, it is the shiny part by the hole where the shaft goes.
For others reading this, the lower half has 5 bolts in a circle holding it to the upper half, I would check and tighten the bolts if you haven't lately. They can work loose from use. You can see the bolt holes in the picture below.
Ordered the gaskets and seals, thanks
 
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