Cub Tip of the Week!

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Again, stuff like life kind of gets in the way of things occassionally. Other things like family sometimes need to be at the fore. So I haven't been as uptodate as I would like to be in the Tip of The Week.. so going to try to catch up today.

Since we are in the midst of a Forum Software Migration, I have been searching the How To Forum preparing for archival. This one popped up and tickled me brain. Even though it is an oldie.. I thought it was a good one :!: :idea: :big smile:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

Dennis B Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:04 pm Post subject: How To Clean Acid From Battery Terminals



How To Clean Acid From Battery Terminals


Most of us hate handling batteries and battery cables corroded with acid. I have a method that I have used and works great and want to pass it on to the members. Maybe this has already been posted but here it goes. First I brush away any loose powdery acid with a old paint brush. Removing the battery works best from here on. Mix up in a container (cool whip for example) approximately one part baking soda and four parts hot water (more or less). Take the cable ends and submerge them in the solution. Immediately it will start foaming and bubbling like mad. Keep the end in until it stops bubbling which means the acid is all off the end. Pull it out and it will look like new. Rinse with clean water and your done. If the cable can't be dipped you can use the paint brush and just brush it on till it's clean. Make sure to caught any drippings so you don't have a mess all over. You can also clean the battery box with this solution and also the top of the battery. Just rinse everything with clean water and your done.
 
Sorry for the dearth of Tip of the Week entries for a while. Again, stuff like life kind of gets in the way occassionally. Other things like family sometimes need to be at the fore.

Since we are in the midst of a Forum Software Migration, I have been searching the How To Forum preparing for archival. This one popped up and tickled me brain. Even though it is another oldie.. Iit is a good one :!: :idea: :big smile:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

BigDog Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:27 pm Post subject: Shop Tip



Scissor Jacks


I know lots of guys already do this but it's worth mentioning anyway. If you have an old automobile scissors jack around (and who doesn't) it makes a handy work support in the shop. You can weld a platform on the bottom for stability and a flat pad on the top to support the work. They are handy for many tasks from leveling long pieces for alignment to supporting and lining up heavy pieces for assembly. The infinite adjustment they provide is quite handy for precision alignment of castings etc. The great thing about them is they are cheap and if you lose one it's not big deal. If you don't already have 2 or 3 of them around, a quick trip to the junkyard will fix you up.
 
Now that the Forum Software Migration has been completed, and I am again perusing the threads for good Tips.. looks like I found one. This one I can appreciate as I have been there on this., It is a good one :!: :idea: :big smile:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by BIGHOSS on Sat Apr 12, 2008 6:41 pm Post subject: PTO Drop Cord




PTO Drop Cord Light



The hardest part of sliding the pto shaft back in place, while aligning the shifter rod is shining a flashlight down in the fill hole and trying to look around the flashlight.

I made up a miniture drop cord using a mini light bulb. The bulb can be lowered down in the hole leaving only two small wires visible in the hole. The little 12 volt bulb illuminates all of the inside of the pto cavity. You can then see the end of both shafts, collar and the shifter lever all at the same time. What was taking me sometimes hours to install the shaft, now a very few minutes.
DropCord2.jpg
 
Been a while, but I will try to start keeping up again... it has been a busy spring :shock:

This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by BigDog on Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:34 am Post subject: Re: Mower Belt jumping off?




Mower Belt Jumping Off



Bigdog":3d7t9mhe said:
The guys have steered you right. The belt has internal cords for strength just like a tire. When a belt gets thrown off a pulley the cords stretch, often to the point of breaking as the belt rides over the lip of the pulley. Once that happens the belt will no longer track true. Just like a tire with broken cords. It is not always visible to the eye but the belt is ruined. That is why when a belt comes off, you should loosen the idlers, place the belt on the pulleys and then tighten the idlers. Never run the belt up over the lip of the pulley when installing a new belt.
 
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Dennis (47 Cub) on Tue Jul 01, 2008 1:39 am Post subject: Craiglist Helper




Effectively Searching All of Craigslist at Once!



Dennis (47 Cub)":1eaari1w said:
Here is a little trick I'll just call Googles Helper. If you want to search ALL of the Craigslist ads in ALL cities, try this in Google search

farmall cub site:*.craigslist.org

The key is the * (asterisk) wildcard to search all the sub-domains that Craigslist uses, such as kansascity.craigslist.org.

This will show you ALL Farmall Cub ads for the entire country in one search. Be ready, there are pages, and pages of them -- I just counted 32 page results. Be aware, that ads may be flagged or removed (sold) when you click on the Google link from the last time Google crawled (searched) the site.

Dennis
 
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Rick(billyandmillie) on Sat Aug 09, 2008 2:23 pm Post subject: A COOL Dogleg repair




Literally a Very COOL Method to Remove the DogLeg Mounting Screws!



Rick(billyandmillie)":1ibf23p5 said:
IMG_0023.JPG
Here's a pic of the rusted dogleg screws that came out as slick anyone could ask for. My cousin Denny arrived a little while ago with a can of Loctite Freeze and Release. He wanted me to be his guinea pig. He also bought a can for himself :shock: A quick spray on each small screw and they back right out. I thought for sure I'd have to drill and tap those holes. Thanks cousin Denny :D :D

There was also a frozen exhaust valve on #1 cylinder that quickly unstuck and now works perfect, plus I had a snapped off final bolt that's now laying on the floor :D :D

IMG_0024.JPG


Rick
 
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by phantom on Mon Apr 14, 2008 12:22 pm Post subject: clutch




How Do They Keep The Graphite in a Throw Out Bearing ??



phantom":3bpvqdfr said:
this thread brought back to my mind one of the questions i have had ever since i changed my first throw out bearing in my first cub. i finally got together all the things i need to answer my question.

the question was-how do they keep the graphite in the bearing. here is what i did....

i put a brand new tob in a vice between two boards. not tight. a match book cover would easily slide between the board and the bearing. using my grease gun i lubricated the new bearing with grease according to the book. when i had the bearing filled with grease i tried to pass the match book cover between the board and the bearing. it didn't fit! i had pushed the graphite block out of the casting with the grease gun the same as stretching the tracks on a dozer. i repeated the test with a used up bearing.(the very same bearing i took out of my first cub...what a pack rat) by the third pump of grease the graphite had pushed on the graphite enough to start the graphite on its way out. i took the bearing out of the vice and two more pumps brought the graphite all the way out of the casting revealing hardened grease that the oil had been leeched from.

i suspect another line should be added to the book. if the clutch pedal on a tractor was held down enough to put normal pressure on the graphite block, it would not move, but could be lubricated without dislodging the graphite.
 
A tip of the week for shipping heavy components such as a final drive :

Re: Preparing for Shipping
by Peter Person on Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:56 am

Dan,
Buy a can or two of "Great Stuff" foam insulation at Lowe's or Home Depot.
Once you have the drive positioned in the box (inside a plastic bag) fill around with the spray foam.
Peter1957 F-Cub, Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower
1957 Int'l LoBoy w/ Fast-Hitch, IH 100 Blade

Peter Person
Cub Pro


Posts: 1186
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 5:27 pm
Location: Connecticut, Stafford
Private messageE-mail
 
I know it has been a bit since I have added to the Cub Tip of the Week. I plead "nolo contendre - mea culpa, mea culpa" :!:

However, we all know how summer can get quite busy, same with fall and harvest. Add to the mix a new granddaughter and poof.. there went scheduling. So, a little late, but I will try to be a little less tardy and scour more diligently.

This weeks tip was brought to my attention when reading a post by Bob in CT on using Henry's Garbage Bag trick. I vaguely remembered reading it, but could not remember when or where, so with some prodding and a link.. :oops: :oops: I realized it was in Henry's excellent Tire Changing Tools article which is also saved in the CBoK at the link above.

So, another timely tip from our Cub Mentor, Henry Chauvin :idea: :!:

Rudi":1r0k62vq said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by H.L. Chauvin Thu Sep 25, 2008 1:37 am Post subject: Tire Changing Tools




How Dismount and Mount Cub Tires to Rims??



H.L. Chauvin":1r0k62vq said:
Now to remove the steel rim from the tire or tire from rim. Plastic garbage bags work great -- just cover half of the circumference of the steel rim with a new, empty, minimum 13 gallon garbage bag, pull up on the tire by hand while standing on the rim, & both sides of the tire slide off as slick as an eel traveling through room temperature boiled okra.

Steel rim outer circumference was wire brushed, painted & allowed to dry, new garbage bag provided in place again, & both sides of tire slipped in the rim with little effort.

Inserted new tube, inflated tire, & no leaks.
 
Here is number 2 in the lets catch up the Cub Tip of the Week thread!

Thanks to Don McCombs for pointing this one out to me -- :oops: a little while ago... :wink: :roll: :?

Rudi":2bynw0ua said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Clark Thompson on Wed Oct 08, 2008 1:19 am Post subject: Governor Doesn't work


How To Diagnose Governor Woes


Clark Thompson":2bynw0ua said:
I have been restoring cubs for over 30 years now. I personally have never seen a Governor just go bad and not work! I would check to see if the Governor spring is good ( Not broken) If it appears to be OK then check to see if it has the proper spring on it. Many times the spring breaks. People not knowing think its just a spring, go the local hardware store and get a close match to the spring. This is a NO NO! . It might look close but close only works in Horseshoes! If your sure you have the correct spring, then is the throttle adjustment right? If not, then you need to get directions from a manual on how to properly adjust the Governor. If thats all correct and it still doesn't work then there are only 2 other things it could be. On the lever that the linkage from the carburetor that connects to the Governor linkage is a little roll pin in the linkage lever. It might be broken or rusted away. If this is OK then there is 1 more place to look and is the most common problem with the Cub Governor not working. On the Governor shaft is a keyed shaft. Over time this key-way on the shaft wears to the point that the Governor will no longer work . Take this shaft out. I bet you will find the shaft key-way worn. You can fix it with JB-Weld or I use what is called weld stick. Its a 2 part putty that works well . Take and clean the shaft well. Fill the woodruff key hole with the putty . Then press a new woodruff key into place. Put the shaft back on the Governor. Let dry. This will fix it permanently. You can usually tell if this key is worn. Hold the Governor shaft where the spring attach's. Then try to move the attached shaft back & forth. If it moves then you found the problem. If everything is OK then there might be a broken pin or shaft inside to Governor but I have never seen it happen.
 
Thanks to Dan England for pointing this one out to me :!:



Rudi":1y22ka9j said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by danovercash on Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:30 am Post subject: In Madisonville with the Cub


Pressure Washer Pointers


danovercash":1y22ka9j said:
Pressure washers can put water where you don't want it! Be careful around mated surfaces (with or without gasket) and anything electrical. (Don't ask) I like to spray with Varsol or something simular before using strong degreaser. They work together to remove gunk, and won't "burn" the paint as bad. Some degreasers can really do a number on paint. Also pressure washer can destroy a radiator.
 
This has got to be one of my favourites :!: :D
Rudi":3vwd39zn said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Cecil on Sat Nov 15, 2008 3:51 pm Post subject: Checking Timing


How To Time a Cub With a Magneto


Cecil":3vwd39zn said:
Here is the process for timing a mag.

1. Remove #1 spark plug (front plug on engine)
2. Place finger over spark plug hole
3. Turn engine until pointer is in line with notch on flywheel and compression is felt
4. Check mag coupler for proper alignment
5. Install magneto and move against engine block
6. Turn engine 2 revolutions until it lines up with the pointer once again.
7. Slowly rotate magneto away from engine block until a distinct click is heard
8. Tighten magneto. Engine is in time.
 
Rudi":2p4soocw said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by John *.?-!.* cub owner on Tue Nov 18, 2008 11:43 pm Post subject: Electrical test equipment


How to Properly Use Basic Electrical Diagnostic Tools


John *.?-!.* cub owner":2p4soocw said:
Use of both items is pretty simple, which is why I like them being simple minded.

To use the light, simply connect the alligator clip to a good ground, and touch a terminal, fuse, etc in question. Example, lights not working: First touch test lead to hot side of battery to make sure your ground clip is making a good connection. Then with light switch on touch to screw on back of light housing. Light comes on, problem is inside head light. No test light, problem is toward light switch. Next move to light switch and touch to headlight wire terminal there. Light, probably broken wire between there and head light. No light, touch to lug the terminal attaches to. if light, clean connection, no light move to fuse. Touch both ends of fuse. if light on one end, replace fuse and clean holder clips. If light at both ends test again on clip instead of fuse. light on one end and not other, clean clips. Light on both ends, switch is probably bad. No light at either end of fuse, check wiring coming to light switch.

To check for power to ignition, touch to switch side of coil (switch on), which is normally the - side on 6 volts, and + side on 12 volts. No light, move toward ignition switch (checking both ends of dropping resister if you have one), keep moving toward battery until light comes on. When it lights you have passed the problem, whether it is broken wire, bad switch, etc.. If light on hot terminal, move to distributor side of coil. light should go on and off 2 times per revolution when cranking engine, preferably by hand so it is easier to see. Light should be on when points open, and off when points close. Light off all the time, disconnect wire to distributor. If light comes on them, you have a short in distributor, maybe condenser, or points stuck shut, or rarely a shorted insulator where wire enters distributor. If light does not come on, coil is bad. If light is on all the time, check for broken wire between coil and distributor, points burned or dirty so they do not make contact, etc.

For the spark tester, connect it to the tower on distributor coil or mag coil using an extra spark plug wire. Set gap of tester between 1/4 and 3/8 inch. Turn ignition on and crank tractor. Should get spark 2 times per revolution for 4 cylinder engines. if no spark, trouble shoot coil. points, wiring, etc. If proper spark, reconnect coil and connect tester to distributor cap either using the spare wire, or plug one of the spark plug wires into the tester. You should see a spark every other round. If no spark, check cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. If spark, check spark plug. If you get a spark there, check carb. and fuel supply. :(
 
One of our newest members brings us this one :!: :D

Rudi":2jeypxj6 said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by sgtbull on Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:18 pm Post subject: Gasket tip...(especially for carbs)

by
Keeping Carburetor Gaskets Pliable and Reuseable


sgtbull":2jeypxj6 said:
Buying a whole carb kit just to get a bowl gasket is not a happy thing. I've been rebuilding Deere simplex and duplex carbs for about 10 yrs now, and fortunately, all of their gaskets are readily available individually. HOWEVER, I'm a bit of a cheapskate so I hate to replace a gasket that is less than a yr old or so, just because I had a bit of crud get in the carb and I had to take the bowl off, and many carbs are hard to find "just the bowl gasket" for.

I don't remember where I got this trick, but I can't take original credit for it. (When redoing someones carb though, I must admit I don't always give credit where credit is due, and allow myself to look like a "carb guru" to some of my buddies :wink: )

The trick is really not much of a trick. Simply coat your bowl gasket on both sides with CHAPSTICK. Yup, plain ol', everyday, run of the mill chapstick. Parafin wax, candle wax or sealing wax will also work, but chapstick is handy, soft, easy to use, and found in about every womans purse in America. (well, while it is probably "IN there", becoming "FOUND" may be a bit more challenging. Before my female readers get incensed, I am only referring to MY wife's suitcase, er, purse.)

It seems the wax in the chapstick is relatively petroleum resistant, and allows disassembly without the gasket adhering to the casting. I have had carbs that I took apart 5 years after rebuilding them, for a good cleaning, and all of the gaskets were still pliable and came right apart without tearing. Its been my luck on untreated gaskets, that when they do adhere, they do so in a matter where one part is to the bowl, and the other part is to the top, resulting in a torn gasket despite my most gentle approach. I've used this on literally dozens of carbs over the years, and as long as you just make a thin film, not a gooey glob on the gasket, you have no problems. FYI.
 
This week, we are featuring a common sense tip from another one of our newer members.... :big smile: A real little gem of a tip to boot :!:

Rudi":g5sfzhvz said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by Ronny Bailey on Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:06 pm Post subject: Keeping track of drain plugs, etc.


Keeping Track of the Drain Plug :!:


Ronny Bailey":g5sfzhvz said:
Grunt's funny post about his 3 hour transmission lube change got me thinking. One of his problems was getting a tranny plug mixed up with a steering plug.

I sometimes use little magnets to keep track of where things go. You can stick the drain plug right next to where you took it off. This avoids my bumping the tractor and having it fall on the floor and rolling into the black hole, where my lost socks, money, car keys and common sense sometimes go.

You can buy them lots of places and they're only about a dime apiece. I like the way they stick together so I don't have to dig around the junk drawer.

Just stick them to a piece of metal and they're there when you need them.

In the picture I'm using a magnet from an old computer hard drive. I like them because they're super strong and free. :)

pic01.jpg
 
I can't believe it has been 8 months since our last tip of the week, I gotta gitittogethersomemore :oops: :roll: :( - was cleaning out my PM box and noticed a note from Dan England about this possible tip. Hey, even I understand it, so it has to be a good one :lol: So without further ado :!:

Rudi":24lu9fmk said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by ricky racer on Wed Mar 18, 2009 1:17 pm Post subject: Low Compression and Valves


Tracing Compression Leaks


ricky racer":24lu9fmk said:
A simple way to see where compression is lost is to induce compressed air to each cylinder and see where it leaks from. You can use the threaded end of a compression tester on many brands or make an adapater from an old spark plug that you can attach an air hose to and induce regulated compressed air into each cylinder to see where it's leaking. If you hear air coming out the exhaust, it's leaking past the exhaust valve. If you hear it leaking out the carb, it's leaking past the intake valve. If you hear it leaking out the crank case filler pipe, it's leaking past the rings. Once you know where it's leaking, you'll know what you have to do to "Get-R-Done"!

:big afro:
 
I guess I have to apologize again for being a little derelict in my CTotW duties for the last little while. It has been a very hectic summer/fall and things just got put off. Again, I will try to keep this more current, and will add the tips as I see them.

Remember, if you see something that you feel would make a good Tip of the Week, please pm me with a link to the thread/post and I will do my best to put it up ASAP.

Rudi":3lf5auzb said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by cowboy on Wed Dec 09, 2009 12:19 pm Post subject: cleaning the starter switch


Cleaning The Starter Switch


cowboy":3lf5auzb said:
The last half of the summer I have been having problems with my starter switch. I did not feel like paying $20 for a new one. So I cleaned the contacts or so I thought :!: I filed the contact on the starter smooth and in the switch housing. I put it back on and still no start. So I went and bought a new one. Put it on and it will once again start. I am not real happy with the quality of the new one. Its not the same size and a lot weaker. The contacts are brass instead of copper and does not work as well as the original when it was working right.

I started thinking about it after I got in the house. I missed something :!: Inside the switch I cleaned one side it has three sides to clean. one that hits the starter that I cleaned. But the other side contacts the stud that battery cable hooks to and I missed it completely. If I had cleaned the stud and the other side of the contact it would have worked.

The red line I drew in the picture points to the two areas I did not clean and needs to be cleaned for good contact and starting.

pic01.jpg


So if you are having to pull hard on the starter switch to get it to start in may not be the starter but the contacts in the switch.

Happy Cubbin' :{_}: :{_}:

Billy
 
Rudi":2f8xmqz4 said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is courtesy of: :

by scotlem on Sat Jan 23, 2010 4:3 pm Post subject: cleaning the starter switch


Re-installing Those 3 Rear Oil Pan Bolts


scotlem":2f8xmqz4 said:
Another Idea for putting it back in is If your universal joint is to floppy to raise up into position with out flopping over and the bolt falling out of the socket. Try taking a piece of heat shrink used for electrical wire and slide it over the universal joint, heat it a little like you would for a wire. Now the universal joint is stiff enough to hold the bolt up with out falling over and flexible enough to still act as a universal joint. Just my opinion, not an expert. Scot
 
Rudi":9h4zq2or said:
This weeks "Cub Tip of the Week" is a double tapper and is courtesy of: :

by muleboss on Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:44 pm Post subject: Subject: bling on the hood


How To Remove Emblems


muleboss":9h4zq2or said:
On mine I took
a small hammer and lightly tapped on the pin part from the inside. You might want to spray some wd40 or such on it first. Just be gentle with it. Bob

and

by George Willer on Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:50 pm Post subject: Subject: bling on the hood


How To Remove Emblems


George Willer":9h4zq2or said:
I don't recall ever seeing this addressed. All the emblems can be easily removed by this method... tap the studs from the inside with a very small hammer , tapping each just a little, taking turns. :D

Congratulations on wisely abandoning the screwdriver method... a sure way to destroy the emblems.
:shock:
 
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