Cub hood mount question

kopeck

Active member
Afternoon,

I've been casually looking for a Farmall Cub with the idea of doing some cultivating in the garden. I'm very familiar with the letter series Farmalls, but I really have not spent any time around the cubs. I found a machine that really fit the bill (cultivators, good tin, ran well with good tires, a real stand-up machine), but didn't have any real free time, and it got sold before I could get back to it. As soon as that machine sold, another popped up for sale, but I have some concerns.

It looks to me, and I know the photos can be deceiving, like something fell on the hood and pushed everything down. There's more going on than just a bent grill. You can also see that the little side filler panels look pushed out, and the hole for the muffler is pretty ugly. It also could just be me, but the upper bloster/radiator support looks like it's been repaired.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the radiator support the hood on these cubs? Obviously, I don't know until I look at it personally, but I'm concerned that the things could be pretty banged up under there. The guy's price is a bit steep for what I see in the photos. I know all too well how "It only needs this" can quickly add up, and suddenly you spend way more than you had planned on.

I'm just looking for a good idea of what I might get into.

Thanks,

K
 

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it has two hood mts welded under the hood, they are probably broken off where they were welded
 
Hi,
Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the hood brackets. You can look at the pictures, they show where the brackets go. Some of them come loose from the hood and need welding on.
They have to be welded on in the right place, so the hood is the right height. The grille and the hood side panels have to fit in the space, up and down.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/827fp.htm

Sometimes the bolts are gone, the Cub and LoBoy parts manual says the bolts are 5/16" x 1/2" long, coarse threads, with lock washers.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the grille, it originally has a boarder on all 4 sides, if you buy one, the hood has to be the right height that it will fit in the space. :)
 
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The quality of the photos doesn’t allow a very good evaluation of what you are seeing in person. Can you provide some better photos of your areas of concern?
 
Hi,
Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the hood brackets. You can look at the pictures, they show where the brackets go. Some of them come loose from the hood and need welding on.
They have to be welded on in the right place, so the hood is the right height. The grille and the hood side panels have to fit in the space, up and down.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/827fp.htm

Sometimes the bolts are gone, the Cub and LoBoy parts manual says the bolts are 5/16" x 1/2" long, coarse threads, with lock washers.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the grille, it originally has a boarder on all 4 sides, if you buy one, the hood has to be the right height that it will fit in the space. :)

That's exactly what I needed to know. I just needed to understand how it fit together, making evaluating the damage much easier. The way that hood is sitting, it wouldn't surprise me if the tabs and the hardware are missing.

Pretty much, get the grill part and then fit everything to it.

K
 
The quality of the photos doesn’t allow a very good evaluation of what you are seeing in person. Can you provide some better photos of your areas of concern?

You are correct. I'm not jumping to conclusions based on those photos other than "something isn't right".

I just needed some idea on how it all worked, so I can evaluate it in person.

K
 
It looks to me, and I know the photos can be deceiving, like something fell on the hood and pushed everything down. There's more going on than just a bent grill. You can also see that the little side filler panels look pushed out, and the hole for the muffler is pretty ugly. It also could just be me, but the upper bloster/radiator support looks like it's been repaired.

It is rough and that should be reflected in the price but.... when you get there there might not be much real damage. Those missing bolts and leaning on the hood will make it look pretty wonkey. The guy is pretty careless with it.

This is a break down of what is under the hood.

Page 26.jpg
 
As can be seen in the above parts break down, the bolster serves as the lower radiator tank. If the coolant freezes, that is the first part to break. It isn't unusual to see them repaired after a freeze break. This one looks like another example of this story. Because that damage is so common, good used replacements tend to bring good money.
 
Check to see if it's resting on the top of the radiator. If it is, make sure it hasn't rubbed holes through the metal and/or broken off the overflow tube. Supports can be replaced. The spot weld broke on one of mmine. I just drilled a hole and used a small bolt to repair it.
 
The hood is actually supported by #11 and #22 above. That is the strongest part of the support. The weakest part is the little welded tabs on the hood itself mentioned above.
 
It is rough and that should be reflected in the price but.... when you get there there might not be much real damage. Those missing bolts and leaning on the hood will make it look pretty wonkey. The guy is pretty careless with it.

This is a break down of what is under the hood.

Thanks! That helps quite a bit.

The rest of the tractor, at least from the photos, looks decent. It's on a market garden type operation, so I bet it has some hours on it. What I do like is that the cultivator is completely set up with spring tines. I know the trip units tend to be sloppy, and the fixed one could be fun in my rocky soil. I also have a pretty decent stash of tools from A/BN cultivators I have kicking around.

I don't want to get too far into the weeds on the price since that's a very location-specific deal. That being said, for the money he has it listed for, I wouldn't expect the hood to be the way it is.

We will see...

K
 
As can be seen in the above parts break down, the bolster serves as the lower radiator tank. If the coolant freezes, that is the first part to break. It isn't unusual to see them repaired after a freeze break. This one looks like another example of this story. Because that damage is so common, good used replacements tend to bring good money.

That's what I've been reading. If the repair is decent, that's not the end of the world. Just makes the one that I missed out on sting a bit more.

Seems they also like to crack the front axle tube, just like A.

K
 
A lot going on there.

Multiple components at play.

In looking at this and other Cubs watch the" doglegs" ( parts 18-19. ) They have a support purpose too and some of their fasteners deserve special attention. Broken and or missing are not a bonus.

The grill is seperate. But a mangled one sure does hurt the cosmetics. Yet served it's purpose to some extent. Consider cost to replace after inspecting how it is secured.

You already have mention of other supporting pieces to inspect. They all add up. And in your case are telling. to me it means look farther than cosmetics for serious issues given the obvious care thus far. Nothing wrong with a hard worn tractor IF it compliments your means and ability and desires. At a fair to you price.
somewhere is a great looking tractor with problems too. But it looks better. Suit yourself .
 
The rest of the tractor, at least from the photos, looks decent. It's on a market garden type operation, so I bet it has some hours on it. What I do like is that the cultivator is completely set up with spring tines. I know the trip units tend to be sloppy, and the fixed one could be fun in my rocky soil. I also have a pretty decent stash of tools from A/BN cultivators I have kicking around.

I don't want to get too far into the weeds on the price since that's a very location-specific deal. That being said, for the money he has it listed for, I wouldn't expect the hood to be the way it is.

Unless I missed it you haven't said if it is running or not. Compression, clutch, trans whine, hydraulics, steering slop, tires, all of these can be fixed or used a little sloppy on a garden plot.

Set up like you want to use is a big plus. Covenant to your location is also a big plus. Unless you are in a location with lots of options you might get a better tractor and have a very hard, expensive time getting equipment you want to use with it.
These old tractors put to use can be pretty or ugly. They don't have to be perfect to be quite nice.

The repair on the bolster @Jim Becker pointed out will probably out live you and is not very noticeable but something to point out toward price. It can be replaced.
The front axle tube prone to cracking is more likely from excessive pressure trying to change width not from use.
The sheet metal fit up is just sloppy and in my opinion much less an issue than other mechanical systems but it is in your face in price negotiation.

BTW it looks like it has a new replacement carb. Ask for the old one.
 
I'll respond to Waif and MM-TX at once since they are in the same vein.

The hood/grill & supports are absolutely the red flag. That's why I wanted to get some opinions/advice before I drove over to look at it. The owner may think that all of that is no big deal, as long as it moves and does "tractor things," it's fine. I grew up on a farm; style points don't really count. That being said, I like my things to be right, or close to right. Repair costs add up quickly (been there, done that).

Here's what I know from the ad.

Runs "well"
Upgrades to 12 volt with new harness (seems like a lot of Cubs I see have been changed to 12v)
New Carb (Yeah, I would want the old one if it's still around)
Fresh oil and plugs (I don't think maintenance items count when it comes to value)

No mention of hydraulic condition.

The positives are it's close by, like 30 minutes. Pretty much every other machine in my area is 2+ hours away. I have another one that looks interesting, but it's 3+ hours away. It's not like I need another tractor; it's as much about want, so the pressure to travel or make do isn't there. I've been weeding by hand all these years anyway...

I'm going to email him and ask about the hydraulics, see if it still has its drawbar (another expense if missing or mangled). I'm not going to ask about the grill, I suspect I wont get the answer I'm looking for anyway. That's an in-person call.

The other red flag is in the description, he says "Fairly priced," so I'm also thinking I might be dealing with a "I know what I have" type, though I could be wrong.

Thank you all for your insight. It's interesting how much a Cub looks like an A, but boy, are they different monsters.

K
 
The angle of the photos doesn’t show much to go on, but I don’t see any evidence of a new wiring harness. In your call to set up an in person inspection, ask if the price is negotiable. His response will tell a lot. When you get there, feel the engine to see if it has been started prior to you getting there.
 
Just a quick update.

I have talked to the owner, and we left the hood stuff as "let's talk about it in person". It does have a drawbar, and he thinks he still has the original carb. I'm going to go and take a look on Saturday morning. He also has a second cub, which is a bit older and without hydraulics. He commented on trading some parts, but he also wants me to buy both, so...

In the meantime, another cub has popped up pretty locally. This one is a 1960 model and has a belly mower but no cultivator. It's a bit more crusty looking, rougher paint (probably more original to be honest), some rust, but structurally looks better. Older tires, but decent tread and wheel weights all around, which the first one does not have. No cultivators, which I'm looking for, but it's a full $1000 less. I have no use for the mower. Not sure how hard it would be to find a set of cultivators...

506044319_1677793379549392_1964948214082853002_n.jpg

K
 
For $1000, l'm sure someone could sell you cultivators.
I've got an extra front frame work without tines l'd let go fairly cheap, but l'm in Michigan.
If you can get the '60 for $1000 less, and it runs. You could afford to put some money into it, sell the mower, and find cultivators for probably the price you get for the mower.

Just my $.02 worth
 
For $1000, l'm sure someone could sell you cultivators.
I've got an extra front frame work without tines l'd let go fairly cheap, but l'm in Michigan.
If you can get the '60 for $1000 less, and it runs. You could afford to put some money into it, sell the mower, and find cultivators for probably the price you get for the mower.

Just my $.02 worth
Agree!!
The '60 looks much more cared for...possibly indicating fewer hidden issues. Good luck!
 
I agree with both of you, so much so that I contacted the seller as soon as I posted.

Of course, someone will be there today to look at it. She's going to let me know if they don't buy it. My job/life doesn't let me be a "deal sniper," unfortunately.

If the '60 sells, and my gut says it will, the first option may still work out. I can also just wait, like I said, this is not life of death by any means. If I dislike the tractor I might even see if he's willing to sell the cultivators and then just wait for the right Cub.

K
 
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