Broke my SC…

An old trick after rebuilding I cannot remember rear ends and transmissions if to throw a magnet in it and leave it in there, will grab any small debris you miss, or a magnetic drain plug
 
Still cleaning things up. 70 plus years of grease and grime sure builds up. Not to mention really smelly gear oil and diesel fuel. Pulled the axle and housing apart to get to the inner seal. The bearings are in good condition, good enough for anoth75A91C70-0A68-43DD-89B9-1ECD0FE86DF8.jpeg428EE84F-50A4-44F6-BE31-FABC2A882AFB.jpeger several decades. I thought I’d need to press off the inner bearing but I was able to tap it off with a brass drift, yay! Cleaned up the axle, the seal surfaces aren’t perfect. I’m particularly concerned about the inner side. Seems to be grooved a bit (10 to 15 thousandths). Do they make a Speedy Sleeve for that? Started chasing the threads in the transmission case, have a few more to go, and wouldn’t you know I drop the tap into the trans, can’t even see it - I’ll try a magnet on a stick. I’m going to try Permatex right stuff gasket maker for the cover, if it’s good enough for Pete it’s better than good enough for me I suppose. You know Pete, from Just a Few Acres Farm, lol.
Oh yeah, remember the broken bolt that was stuck in the transmission cover? It’s been sitting for several days soaked in PB Blaster. Planning for the worst I tried the vice grips one more time and it rolled right out, no struggle at all. Kinda made my day.1ACEC713-0AC4-401D-BB99-67759242CC29.jpeg1EF740FE-5F2B-472D-AC98-71EAC4CC5057.jpeg
 
Look in the online catalogs for timken and Chicago rawhide for speedi sleeves, they are listed by dimension
 
New seals installed, bearings greased up, bull gear aligned, and it’s 21B62BF9-0407-42A7-9561-1459EE677165.jpeg1DD315A2-A2F1-4859-8C87-D61250849D9C.jpeg02056750-0567-4ABA-9C55-F710B97C597B.jpeginstalled. Took me all afternoon, quite a chore by myself. Had to make an alignment pin and of course used AD0A2D2A-F70D-4DDD-BFC6-5D8BF09356DB.jpegthe come-along. It fought me the whole way.
 
I did test fit the new seals, I believe they’ll be fine, even the inner one which I was worried about. Tomorrow it’s the transmission cover going back on then the hub and the wheel. Of course I need to reassemble the the controls tree, wiring, etc. and reconnect all the fast hitch parts. There was a lot that had to come apart to make what seems like a simple repair, I.e. replace an axle.
Cheese and crackers, it’s been an ordeal.
 
Super C finale

After finishing up with the axle installation it took another day and a half of wrenching to finish the job. It’ll probably take another day just to clean up the disaster in my shop. Geez what a mess, black 70 something year old smelly, stinky gear oil and grease, 20 or so 3BEDC6C6-E2FD-4D6F-A412-A20377A38ADD.jpeg375E151D-6E9D-4A50-B7CE-F71AFE4F5ADF.jpegD788325F-06CA-4E9D-B761-C57B7B482BB9.jpegF6C7487C-B86F-48E9-92D4-4E2BF912E9F3.jpegpounds of oil dry all over the floor. I should call in for an EPA cleanup - lol.
…but she’s back together and works great, just like it’s supposed to. I even got the original headlights to work. I thought I’d try some LED bulbs to replace the incandescent bulbs but I forgot they’re not the same. The original lamps use single filament bayonet base bulbs rather than a sealed beam. Oh well, I want to keep the originals on it.
It was a battle, even a struggle considering I’m dealing with arthritis in all my major joints, and did I mention all that stuff is really heavy. I wouldn’t wish that job on anyone. I’d rather split the tractor to replace the clutch, and most seem to think splitting a tractor is a big deal, and it is to a degree, but much simpler and less taxing than this job was.
 
If my memory is functioning properly today, I think there are bayonet base LED bulbs available. Someone will chime in if they are.
 
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