Brake Info

tinnerjohn

501 Club
When the weather breaks I need to rebuild the brakes (and a few other things I've been putting off!). Besides the brake bands can anyone think of any other parts that I'll need? I haven't looked in the parts book or service manual yet, probably should be the first place I start but I thought I'd ask any way. Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

John
 
When the weather breaks I need to rebuild the brakes (and a few other things I've been putting off!). Besides the brake bands can anyone think of any other parts that I'll need? I haven't looked in the parts book or service manual yet, probably should be the first place I start but I thought I'd ask any way. Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

John
I should have clarified, this is a 52.
 
The seals I had forgotten, that is one of the things I have been putting off. I'm fortunate to have 3 grandsons , 11 to 21 that like to get dirty as much as me!
 
Hi,
This is sort of a long post. I posted it here in case others need info about replacing the brakes or final drive oil seals.
I would read about the brakes in the 2 manuals you said above.
If your Cub is a 1952, with the original final drives, it would have the 1st style of brakes, with the rods made onto the brake bands.
The 2nd style of brakes are different, IH began using them in mid 1953.
Below is a post from the How To Forum on here about removing a Cub final drive, by Dale Finch.
It has lots of info and lots of pictures.
Be sure to put wooden wedges at the front axle pivot before removing rear wheels, or final drives.
A Cub is heavier on the left side, and they can tip over.
It is probably safer to take apart one side at a time, then one rear wheel and tire will be in place.
https://farmallcub.com/community/threads/left-final-removal-for-brake-lining-replacement.78436/

I would replace all the oil seals on the shafts the brake drums are on while it is apart. There are 2 seals on the left side, and 2 seals on the right side. Basically 1 seal inboard, and 1 seal outward of the brake drums.
TM Tractor Parts near the bottom of the Forums page has new oil seals.
Below is their listing for new seals, they are 2 different sizes.

This listing has pics on the page of where the seal goes.

The areas where the brakes are should be dry, no oil in them.
You can look in the holes in the casting where the brakes are with a light to see if the seals leak.
The final drives are held on by 6 bolts in a circle, they should be checked periodically to be sure they are tight.
The holes at the top and bottom of the mounting surface are for alignment dowels. Be sure they are there. If any are gone, TM Tractor Parts has new ones.
Below are pictures from TM Tractor Parts of the brake, and where the oil seal is. :)
I sent you a direct message.
 

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Make sure you put wedges between the front axle and the bolster on each side!!
Since the engine is offset and not centered, there is a tendency for the tractor to roll to the left when weight is removed from the rear. By blocking the front on either side of the PIVOT pin in the front axle, you should prevent this.
 
Below is a picture of the wedges, they can be made at less of an angle. Hammer them in tight.
 

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