Left Final Removal for Brake Lining Replacement

[Dale Finch]

While mowing this past week, I felt something wrong with the left brake on my ’52 Cub. It was definitely not working right, so when I finished I looked in the brake slot and saw the brake drum had migrated inboard toward the differential housing. So I took her (Bobbie) to the “hospital” (the shop I have the good fortune to use) and proceeded to remove and repair it.

I figured that this is a very common procedure, but there are still a few folks who have not done this and have not had the opportunity to watch it at a Cubfest. So I took photos at each step. (I am NOT a pro, so if any of my procedures are wrong, feel free to let me know.

REMOVE THE MOWER DECK

REMOVE DRAWBAR/MULE DRIVE ASSEMBLY

INSTALL WEDGES IN FRONT AXLE

CHOCK TRACTOR

JACK TRACTOR

REMOVE WHEEL/WEIGHT AND FENDER

REMOVE BRAKE ROD CLEVIS AND COTTER PINS

SUPPORT FINAL WITH ENGINE HOIST

REMOVE LAST 2 BOLTS ON BOTTOM OF FINAL (after strapping under engine hoist!)

CAREFULLY SLIDE FINAL OUT OF DIFFERENTIAL

YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BRAKE DRUM WAS BEGINNING TO RUB ON THE DIFFERENTIAL SEAL RETAINER BOLTS

NOTE HOW BRAKE DRUM HAD MIGRATED ALMOST 2" INBOARD (left) WITH BRAKE BAND BARELY TOUCHING

CAUSE? SET SCREW BROKEN AND APPARENTLY LOOSE

THE TOP 1/4" WAS THE ONLY BRAKE PAD CONTACT

BRAKE CONDITION

BROKEN SET SCREW AND LOCK NUT (BOTTOM) WITH "NEW" ONE (TOP)

CLEAN UP FINAL OIL PAN HOUSING

REMOVE OLD DIFFERNTIAL SEAL (Why not? You have it this far apart and it's really some cheap/easy insurance!! I also "chased" all the bolt hole threads with a tap...makes reassembly easier AND precludes problems later on)

OLD AND NEW DIIFERENTIAL SEALS

DRIVING IN NEW SEAL (using a socket upside down, with a larger diameter than the seal, keeps you from going beyond flush with outer edge)

REMOVE TRANSMISSION "FULL LEVEL" PLUG (might as well check fluid and top off...this is the best access you will ever have!!!)

REMOVE FILLER PLUG

ADD OIL OF CHOICE (I used 90wt gear oil) UNTIL IT STARTS COMING OUT LOWER "FULL" PLUG HOLE

CLEAN RUST FROM BRAKE DRUM (worn edge was a small enough area, I decided to leave it)

DRILL OUT OLD RIVETS TO REMOVE OLD LINING

NEW AND OLD BRAKE LININGS (my tremendous thanks to Bob McCarty for making up these...I was SO glad I bought a set from him at a recent Cubfest!)

Sorry about the length of this post, and I must now continue on a second post due to photo limits. Thanks for getting this far! Look for part 2!

 

[Dale Finch]

OK, for those who perservered through my Part 1, here is Part 2! This is a continuation of the Left Final removal http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78421 to replace the brake lining of my '52 cub.

CLEAN RUST FROM AND PRIME BRAKE BAND

RIVET NEW LINING (an earlier post showed this, but I cannot find it. Be sure to clamp lining in several places to ensure it is tight against the band. The linings that Bob McCarty sold were already drilled and countersunk. I used a combination of punch in a vice against the flat head, and a pointed punch plus a small body hammer to flare the rivet. I KNOW there is the proper tool for this, but I had to use what I had on hand)

COMPLETED BRAKE BAND

INSTALL BAND ON DRUM IN FINAL

THE CLEANED AND PAINTED FINAL OIL PAN

CLEAN SEAT FOR OIL PAN GASKET (I also chased all threads to make reassembly easier and avoid problems downline)

INDIAN HEAD GASKET SHELLAC (a thin coating was used on both sides of the gasket)

INSTALL OIL PAN (tighten all bolts evenly, but try not to overtighten...could warp the edges, especially if your pan does not have the reinforcment strips)

REMOVE FILL PLUG AND FILL FINAL WITH GEAR OIL OF CHOICE (after trussing it up to the hoist, it was much easier to do this now, than crawl under the tractor later! It also beat the idea of filling the pan to an unknown level and THEN installing it onto the final. BTDT...ended up with oil all over the place as the bull gear displaced more than I thought it would!!!)

ADD OIL UNTIL IT IS LEVEL WITH THE PLUG HOLE, THEN...

REINSTALL THE PLUG

IN PREPARATION FOR INSTALLING THE FINAL, GREASE OR OIL THE DIFFERENTIAL SEAL AND...

GREAE OR OIL THE FINAL SHAFT TO AVOID DAMAGING THE SEAL

CAREFULLY GUIDE THE FINAL ONTO THE DIFFERENTIAL

LINE UP THE TOP AND BOTTOM DOWELS, AS WELL AS THE BRAKE BAND PIN (one dowel at top of photo, brake pin at bottom of photo)

INSTALL THE 2 LOWER BOLTS

INSTALL FENDER

YOU CAN SEE THAT THE DRUM AND BAND ARE LOCATED CORRECTLY THROUGH THE FRONT OR BACK (for future checks)

INSTALL CLEVIS PIN IN ROD END OF BRAKE ROD (it is a good idea to make sure the rod end is free so you can make the needed adjustments. Easier now than later!)

INSTALL COTTER PIN (but don't bend it all the way over yet...you may still need to make adjustments)

CHASE THREADS ON AXLE WITH TAP (the lug bolts are fine threads and sometimes can be difficult to get started. MUCH easier if the threads are clean!)

INSTALL WHEEL/WEIGHT

INSTALL DRAWBAR/MULE DRIVE

INSTALL MOWER (adjust idler pulleys for belt tension and proper angles into/out of front spindle per Woods manual available on this forum)

CHECK PRPER MOWER DECK ANGLE FOR MOST EFFICIENT MOWING

REMOVE THE FRONT AXLE CHOCKS

SHEESH!! So did you manage to slug through this entire post or did you just skip to see if she works?! Well the answer is that the brake works just fine, and although the right one probably needs this same service, after some adjustment per the manual, they are well balanced. Thanks for your patience!!