Another Farmall Cub Oil Question

RunningRed said:
Nice, thanks. Is that a breather tube for the engine?
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If you are referring to Bob's picture of the pipe and winged cap that is circled that's the oil filter housing drain. Its use is for draining the oil from the filter before removing the cap to change the filter. Some people will change the filter more often than changing the oil and filter at the same time. Stan
 
Hi,
The engine crankcase breather is on the upper end of the dipstick.
The 1955 Cub operator's manual says clean the breather at each oil change. Wash inside it, soaking it in solvent helps.
The Cub operator's manual tells about cleaning the oil filter chamber, if needed. Look in it with a light when you change the oil filter, if you have the hood off. If it is dirty, it can be washed out with kerosene and a brush. Put the bolt in without the cover to keep the kerosene from running into the engine.
I sent you a message, you get to it at the top of the page.
 
If it were mine I would ask the former owner if he used STP in it years ago. STP always left a build up of sludge thru out the entire motor. If he did I would look for a product to thoroughly clean the sludge and follow the products instructions.
 
Glen said:
Hi,
The engine crankcase breather is on the upper end of the dipstick.
The 1955 Cub operator's manual says clean the breather at each oil change. Wash inside it, soaking it in solvent helps.
The Cub operator's manual tells about cleaning the oil filter chamber, if needed. Look in it with a light when you change the oil filter, if you have the hood off. If it is dirty, it can be washed out with kerosene and a brush. Put the bolt in without the cover to keep the kerosene from running into the engine.
I sent you a message, you get to it at the top of the page.
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In actuality that breather will get cleaned once a decade or less. Mine has been sitting in coffee can of gas for a couple weeks trying to break down the dirt oil mix that has it clogged tight.
 
Good thing is i found out my was run with 10w40 prior to me acquiring it. So I don't have to worry weather I need to use non detergent or not. So I'll just stick with either 10w30 or 15w40 Rotella. I went to Walmart cause they were having a sale for a gallon was 15.49 but they didn't have any 10w30 and i don't know if it will hurt when next winter comes around and it's 10 degree out to run 15w40 when my owners manual says to use 10w.
 
Picked up 3 gallons of Rotella 15w40, I was going to get the 10w30 but they only had 1 gallons of it and tons of 15w40. I guess I could always get a oil pan heater for the winter time. I am still leary about putting 15w40 in it cause my manual calls for 20w in the summer up to 80 degree then it's 30wt, and 10wt in the winter. Kinda worried it will be too thick? I also am getting 3 oil filters tomorrow the Wix 51153 to have on hand.
 
Well I went to every store in my area looking for a GL-4 rated gear oil but have come up empty handed. Instead I bought GL-5 80w90 gear oil, I know it's not as yellow metal friendly but I didn't know what else to get.
 
In my opinion, what you’re looking for is GL-1. It is yellow metal friendly and Tractor Supply has it. They call it Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid.
 
The GL-1 that Don advised is about as close as you will find to what was originally used in the early Cubs. There is clearly nothing wrong with that option. However, I feel that the later recommendations are a better choice. I have used 90 weight and 80W90 gear oils. But I think I am done buying either one. Genuine Hy-Tran is GL-4 and not GL-5. I need to check whether Tractor Supply Universal (or equivalents) are marked the same. If so, I'm using them once my 80W90 jug is empty. Most of my gear cases leak the thick oil, so no added leak risk from the thinner oil. I think an overriding consideration is to use Hy-Tran if the tractor is used in cold weather. Final bit of irony, the better fluid costs less.
 
Don McCombs said:
In my opinion, what you’re looking for is GL-1. It is yellow metal friendly and Tractor Supply has it. They call it Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid.
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I did see that.
Jim Becker said:
The GL-1 that Don advised is about as close as you will find to what was originally used in the early Cubs. There is clearly nothing wrong with that option. However, I feel that the later recommendations are a better choice. I have used 90 weight and 80W90 gear oils. But I think I am done buying either one. Genuine Hy-Tran is GL-4 and not GL-5. I need to check whether Tractor Supply Universal (or equivalents) are marked the same. If so, I'm using them once my 80W90 jug is empty. Most of my gear cases leak the thick oil, so no added leak risk from the thinner oil. I think an overriding consideration is to use Hy-Tran if the tractor is used in cold weather. Final bit of irony, the better fluid costs less.
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My transmission doesn't make any noise either and I'd like to keep it that way. Who knows what was run in it for the last how many years. What's in there now looks like caramel color.
 
Jim Becker said:
That is due to water that has mixed into it (and maybe a little rust).
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Agree. Drain and flush with 3 pints of kero or diesel, drain well and refill with new lube as recommended and you should be good to go. Also service the final drive oil pans while you're into it. JMHO Stan
 
staninlowerAL said:
Agree. Drain and flush with 3 pints of kero or diesel, drain well and refill with new lube as recommended and you should be good to go. Also service the final drive oil pans while you're into it. JMHO Stan
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Will do stan! I wanted to drop the final drives but not sure if I will need to replace the gaskets. I gotta start watching what I spent on this tractor or the woman might have a change of heart, I may end up on the side of a milk carton.
 
They have said on here after draining the transmission oil, and putting in 3 1/2 Pints of kerosene, to drive the Cub around for 5 minutes, then drain the kerosene. If you catch it in a clean oil drain pan, you can see what was in it. Drive it some in 3rd gear, with the kerosene in it, it splashes the kerosene around more.
The trans oil filler plug is just to the rear of the shifter.
The trans oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans.
The trans oil drain plug is visible from under the platform.
 
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