I posted here last week about taking over a '48 Cub that had been narrowed for use in strawberry fields: https://farmallcub.com/community/th...-gauge-1948-cub-i-have-some-questions.119590/ This is an heirloom and in excellent health but the only way I can justify keeping it is to be able to mow a 2-acre open space a block away that us neighbors bought 20 years ago to keep from being developed (we live right in town). So I am going to turn it back into a regular Cub and have found the parts to do it, including the right axle housing and axle, the front axle tube, and the platform. And a Woods 42' belly mower. I know some of you suggested I keep it original but that just doesn't work for me and I also worry about it tipping over being so extremely narrow. My question is: what small parts (other than the housing and axle) do I need? Seals? Anything else? Bearing retainers or such? Any suggestions on doing the work? Thanks for your input. This forum is terrific and I've learned so much already from digging around a bit.
Widening my narrow Cub; how hard is it to replace the right axle housing and axle?
- Thread starter pauln
- Start date
Grader Lee
Member
Probably a cub collector would be happy to trade a standard for your narrow.
You will also need a tie rod and maybe the right axle extension for the front. Hopefully your replacement platform will have the pedals or at least the right brake pedal shaft. For the back, you will need the regular drawbar to mount the Woods mower. I don't know if there will be a problem between the odd-ball rear tires/rims/wheel centers and the Woods mower. Does the mower you found include the hand lift lever? If the mower was set up for hydraulic lift, you will need either add a Touch-Control system to the tractor or find the hand lift conversion from Woods.
Edit: On closer look at your pictures, you may not need a brake pedal shaft but will need a right brake pedal.
Edit: On closer look at your pictures, you may not need a brake pedal shaft but will need a right brake pedal.
ricky racer
501 Club
Myself, I think I'd post your narrow Cub for sale. I'd think it's worth a bit more than a regular Cub since it's relatively uncommon. Some collector would like to have it I'm sure to have something unusual at the next tractor show then buy what you really want. Or, as Grader Lee said, see if someone would like to trade it for a regular Cub.
Yes, I'm also getting the right front tie rod (extension). And the drawbar. It came with the original wheels, which were very funky but I've restored them and ordered some proper tractor tires. And I've got a hand lift lever coming.
I've already found everything I need to put it back. But I'll have all the parts if someone wants to turn their Cub into a narrow one!
havoc1482
501 Club
Frankly this is all that matters. Changing is not the same as destroying. Preserve the parts. Good luck on your project!But I'll have all the parts if someone wants to turn their Cub into a narrow one!
Hi,
Since you would have the right side extension off the transmission housing, you could replace the oil seal in the trans. It is in a retainer. I would leave the retainer in place, and use a seal puller to remove the seal. The retainer has shims under it, to adjust the differential.
If you haven't replaced a seal before, be sure the seal lip is facing towards the trans, seals don't work well put in backwards, and may leak oil.
Don't hammer directly on a new seal, it can bend it. Put flat metal on the seal to hammer on, or use a seal driver. Drive the seal in straight. Put oil on the rubber of the seal and the shaft where the seal runs on, so they aren't dry.
There is an oil seal in the final drive, visible after removing the brake drum. It may need replacing too.
Below are listings at TM Tractor Parts of the seals, you can look at the pictures. The seals are different sizes.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/245fp.htm
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm
If you are replacing the long upper shaft in the right final drive, remove the round cover from the final drive, and the brake drum, and the brake drum key in the shaft, and the shaft slides out, outward of the tractor. Don't remove the snap ring from the bearing.
Below is a picture of the right side oil seal, the left side is similar.
The 2nd picture shows the brake in the final drive, the brake drum isn't there in the picture.
The 3rd picture shows the oil seal. That seal has to face with the seal lip towards the oil in the final drive.
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I gotta cub
Member
Below is a post from the How To forum on here about removing a final drive, and repairing the brake. It has lots of pictures. The brake on your Cub may need repair too.
Not all brakes have the brake drum move by themselves, like the post shows.
It doesn't show replacing the oil seal in the final drive.
It shows the left side, they are the same casting, but the upper axle shafts are different lengths.
Be sure to make wooden wedges and drive them in tight with a hammer, like the picture shows.
Cubs are heavier on the left side, and can tip over when removing parts from the rear of them, or splitting them. The wedges don't have to be made at as much of an angle as the picture shows.
Not all brakes have the brake drum move by themselves, like the post shows.
It doesn't show replacing the oil seal in the final drive.
It shows the left side, they are the same casting, but the upper axle shafts are different lengths.
Be sure to make wooden wedges and drive them in tight with a hammer, like the picture shows.
Cubs are heavier on the left side, and can tip over when removing parts from the rear of them, or splitting them. The wedges don't have to be made at as much of an angle as the picture shows.
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I gotta cub
Member
I live in Drain...not to far south of Eugene..if you want to look at my all original 48 cub, as a reference, you're more than welcome to come down and look at it.
Below is the Cub and LoBoy service manual, it has lots of info.
I would read the final drive section, section 7, before working on the final drive.
There is a contents beginning on page 1 of most sections, that makes it easier to use online.
I think you can get to this manual, but I'm not sure. You have to be a member for the the time they say to get to the manuals at Resources.
https://farmallcub.club/rudi/farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals/GSS-1411 Service Manual for Cubs and Lo-boy Tractors/index.html
This manual was made in the 1970's so it has newer, 12 volt electrical system info.
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