Rescue Cub in Brazil

[Glen]

Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the breaker cover, you can look at the pictures.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/322fp.htm

Below are other parts that I don't see in your pictures, maybe you have them.
There is a spark plug wire holder that bolts onto the 3rd head bolt from the front on the right side of the engine.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/gr/359fp.htm

There is a small screen in the inlet of the IH carburetor.

TM Tractor Parts for McCormick Farmall Cub, International Cub, and International Lo-Boy

There is a clip that holds the long throttle rod, it bolts onto the head, towards the rear, with a 5/16" bolt. The clip keeps the rod from flexing. Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts.

 

[staninlowerAL]

Stephanie,it's looking good. The distributor should work without the cover but Glen has listed one source. Others are forum sponsors and list a wanted to buy in the Classified forum. Stan

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Below is a listing at TM Tractor Parts for the breaker cover, you can look at the pictures.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/322fp.htm

Below are other parts that I don't see in your pictures, maybe you have them.
There is a spark plug wire holder that bolts onto the 3rd head bolt from the front on the right side of the engine.
https://www.tmtractor.com/new/gr/359fp.htm

There is a small screen in the inlet of the IH carburetor.

TM Tractor Parts for McCormick Farmall Cub, International Cub, and International Lo-Boy

There is a clip that holds the long throttle rod, it bolts onto the head, towards the rear, with a 5/16" bolt. The clip keeps the rod from flexing. Below is a picture from TM Tractor Parts.

Thank you.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Glad you are back. I was just thinking a week or so ago that we hadn't heard anything in a while. Keep up the great work and keep posting.

Thanks.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Stephanie,it's looking good. The distributor should work without the cover but Glen has listed one source. Others are forum sponsors and list a wanted to buy in the Classified forum. Stan

Thanks.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Not sure what you mean by the distributor cover housing. If you do purchase a carburetor rebuild kit, get it from a reputable source like TM Tractor Parts or McDonald Carb & Ignition.

Thanks.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Good evening, friends. Ever since I rescued this Cub in the northeast of Brazil, I had no idea how much work it would take to bring it back to life. As many of you know, the tractor was basically in scrap condition. A lot of people ask me if it’s worth it and question whether so much effort really pays off. For me, it absolutely does — I get a lot of joy out of saving a Cub.

I know that in the U.S. there are still many of them scattered around, but here it’s not easy to find one. The few that survived are mostly in the hands of collectors.

Today, I’d like to share the process of restoring the front wheels of my Cub. I had to buy two 12-inch wheels just to remove the rims, keeping only the center sections to reuse.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

I bought this wheel and removed the rim

Mercado Livre

I had to cut the rim down the middle to reduce it to 4.5 inches.

The rim of the orginal wheel was completely rusted out.

The two front wheel is perfect now.


While restoring my Cub wheels, I decided to work on the wheels of my Grand Cherokee too

 

[Gary Dotson]

The vodka was a good start! Here in the US, we can buy rim blanks, just the rim with no center. But, of course, Cub rims, in good condition, are not hard for us to find, so rim blanks are not needed for them. A few years ago, I restored an unusual, seldom seen, tractor. When I received it, someone had taken a torch to a pair of trailer wheels, to bolt them on to the oddball bolt pattern. I found that no wheels were available with that pattern. I bought a pair of rim blanks and custom made the centers to look like the real thing. No one has ever known the difference.

 

[dgrapes59]

I've enjoyed watching your journey, thanks for taking the time to post your progress. You're doing a great job, best of luck as you continue.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Another rescued Cub component fully restored!

 

[stephanev8brazil]

We are here in Brazil praying for the families who lost loved ones in Texas. May God bring comfort to everyone’s hearts.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

36 350 759 RII .EXTENSION, FRONT AXLE, W/TWO BJSHINGS, 350761 RI

Good Afeternoon to all my friends at farmallcub.com . I´m in need of some help. My restoration project " Rescue Cub in Brazil" has reached the fornt axlem and I´m currently trying to remove the front axle extensions. Unfortunaltely, after so many years, the tubes are completely rusted and seized in place. I´ve already tried varius chemical technigues, including acid treatments, and I´ve also aplied the heat for expasion- but the parts still won´t budge. I can´t hammer them, as that would damage the parts, and I can´t pull with a winch because it could bend tubes. I am Looking for technical advice on how to memove these extension partis without damaging ou having to cut the tubses. Thank You very much in advance ! Stephane Bernades Rescue Cub in Brazil .

 

[Board shortener Tom]

36 350 759 RII .EXTENSION, FRONT AXLE, W/TWO BJSHINGS, 350761 RI

Good Afeternoon to all my friends at farmallcub.com . I´m in need of some help. My restoration project " Rescue Cub in Brazil" has reached the fornt axlem and I´m currently trying to remove the front axle extensions. Unfortunaltely, after so many years, the tubes are completely rusted and seized in place. I´ve already tried varius chemical technigues, including acid treatments, and I´ve also aplied the heat for expasion- but the parts still won´t budge. I can´t hammer them, as that would damage the parts, and I can´t pull with a winch because it could bend tubes. I am Looking for technical advice on how to memove these extension partis without damaging ou having to cut the tubses. Thank You very much in advance ! Stephane Bernades Rescue Cub in Brazil .

I clamped my axle in a vise. I then used a rosebud oxy-acetylene torch to heat the outside tube. I quickly put a 10 ton porta power between the vise and the down tube where the spindle for the front wheel attaches. I had a fair amount of pressure on the porta power and I placed an oak block against the drop tube on the bottom side (opposite end as the porta power) and hit it with a 3 pound hammer. It was very slow to move but after an hour of repeating the heating and applying pressure it popped loose. I hope this makes sense. I was not an animal when I did this. I just took my time and was a gentle as I could be with it.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

I clamped my axle in a vise. I then used a rosebud oxy-acetylene torch to heat the outside tube. I quickly put a 10 ton porta power between the vise and the down tube where the spindle for the front wheel attaches. I had a fair amount of pressure on the porta power and I placed an oak block against the drop tube on the bottom side (opposite end as the porta power) and hit it with a 3 pound hammer. It was very slow to move but after an hour of repeating the heating and applying pressure it popped loose. I hope this makes sense. I was not an animal when I did this. I just took my time and was a gentle as I could be with it.

Thank you for sharing your procedure. I’ll try to do something similar.

 

[staninlowerAL]

A couple years ago ago at a LACubfest event I watched this operation being done in much the same way except the axle remained on the tractor. The front was suspended slightly above the floor, front wheels removed, and positioned between two sturdy steel beams directly in line with tractor axle. A high capacity puller (come-a-long) was attached on each side with a chain between the beams and the end of the axle extensions. High heat was applied as Tom described and pressure horizontally applied by the pullers along with some slight twisting back and forth on the points similar to Tom's method with a hammer and block as he described. It took a LOT of heat and pressure but the effort was successful. The ability to apply constant pulling force (pressure) together with the high heat over the entire length of the tube was the key to success. It helped to have everything suspended and connected so the work could be done without being in a hurry also helped. When you get it disassembled you can use a wire wheel brush on an extension rod with a drill motor to clean the inside of the axle tube before lubrication and reassembly. JMHO Stan

 

[stephanev8brazil]

A couple years ago ago at a LACubfest event I watched this operation being done in much the same way except the axle remained on the tractor. The front was suspended slightly above the floor, front wheels removed, and positioned between two sturdy steel beams directly in line with tractor axle. A high capacity puller (come-a-long) was attached on each side with a chain between the beams and the end of the axle extensions. High heat was applied as Tom described and pressure horizontally applied by the pullers along with some slight twisting back and forth on the points similar to Tom's method with a hammer and block as he described. It took a LOT of heat and pressure but the effort was successful. The ability to apply constant pulling force (pressure) together with the high heat over the entire length of the tube was the key to success. It helped to have everything suspended and connected so the work could be done without being in a hurry also helped. When you get it disassembled you can use a wire wheel brush on an extension rod with a drill motor to clean the inside of the axle tube before lubrication and reassembly. JMHO Stan

Thank you for procedure.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

One More component successfully restored.

 

[stephanev8brazil]

Now, I´m going to restore the front axle. Thanks to my friends at Farmallcub.com for the tips on how to disassemble the axle parts. I was able to separate the parts without causing any damage. Next, they will go into a hydrochloric acid bath, for complete rust removal through pickling. I plan to remove about 0.5 microns from the surface of the tubes and intend to coat inside of the tubes to prevent future corrosion.

 

[Bob McCarty]

The oil slinger can go on two ways, one right and one wrong. If you'll scroll down to the color picture in this thread, you can see how it should be. Hopefully you reassembled it correctly, although it will be an easier fix before more parts are added. https://farmallcub.com/community/threads/fan-oil-slinger.28672/