I just recently bought my first tractor ('64 IH404 in great condition) and am not entirely sure how many DIY repairs I'll be able to do and hoped you all would be able to shed some light for me.
My main concern is the clutch. There seems to be entirely too much grinding of gears when I attempt to shift into gear or engage the PTO. I have been unable to find any information pertaining to the clutch operation so I am not sure if there is a clutch brake or synchro. Do I need to double shift like a semi or keep it engaged like a car? Is a rebuild/repair enormously difficult to undertake?
Thanks!
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IH404 Clutch Question
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
I am not familiar with a 404, but have driven the neighbors 444 some. It has a 2 stage clutch (live pto). Pushing the clutch down the first 1/4 to 1/3 of the travel disconnects the pto, and then as it goes down further (sometimes a lot further depending on how adjusted) disconnects the transmission. Your clutch may simply need adjusted, however, I cannot tell you how to do it. Tractor transmissions are not meant to be shifted on the go, so they do not have synchronizers on the transmission.
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
The 404 is a descendant of the Farmall A. I'm not that familiar with the changes from the 240 to the 404, but based on what I do know:
It has a straightforward single stage clutch. There is no clutch brake. When you fully disengage the clutch, the transmission input shaft should spin down in a reasonable amount of time so you can put it in gear or engage the PTO (which is transmission driven). If it grinds when you put it in gear after the clutch has been down for a while, something isn't right. First off, is the clutch pedal free play OK? There should be close to 2 inches of free travel at the face of the pedal and about 3 inches more travel after you feel the pressure from the clutch. If adjusting that doesn't make it better, you may have a problem with your pilot bearing (actually a bushing). If it is dry or damaged, it could be causing the input shaft to continue to turn with the clutch disengaged.
On a Cub, some have managed to point the tractor down hill and squirt WD-40 onto the input shaft and get some to run forward into the pilot bearing. I don't know if that trick can be done with a 404 or not. If not, you may have to split the tractor to get at the bearing.
It has a straightforward single stage clutch. There is no clutch brake. When you fully disengage the clutch, the transmission input shaft should spin down in a reasonable amount of time so you can put it in gear or engage the PTO (which is transmission driven). If it grinds when you put it in gear after the clutch has been down for a while, something isn't right. First off, is the clutch pedal free play OK? There should be close to 2 inches of free travel at the face of the pedal and about 3 inches more travel after you feel the pressure from the clutch. If adjusting that doesn't make it better, you may have a problem with your pilot bearing (actually a bushing). If it is dry or damaged, it could be causing the input shaft to continue to turn with the clutch disengaged.
On a Cub, some have managed to point the tractor down hill and squirt WD-40 onto the input shaft and get some to run forward into the pilot bearing. I don't know if that trick can be done with a 404 or not. If not, you may have to split the tractor to get at the bearing.
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
My 404 never grinds! 404 dont have lpto OR ta, so you are always hooked into direct drive or neutral! ---a very simple tractor to work on,--except if you need to split it,--BUT thats only if you have the optional 2 valve + 3-pt valve bank as I do,---then the splitting is a bear!---I love my 404! --also have a 504 (different story here)-- they have ta--and lpto --3-pt and all the goodies, plus 5- speed transmission just like a 560!
check your adjustment and links --the throw out bearing could be bad, but also could be the pilot bearing is dry/worn and hanging up! I have the service manuals for mine! thanks; sonny
check your adjustment and links --the throw out bearing could be bad, but also could be the pilot bearing is dry/worn and hanging up! I have the service manuals for mine! thanks; sonny
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
Hahaha - I also have the "Two valve, 3 -point" hydraulics on my 404 -
AND POWER STEERING! But mine is a combination of two tractors!!
If the pilot bearing needs lube (most likely) you'll have to split the tractor. The steering linkages and hydraulic lines are the only part that makes this hard to do. Make sure the splines on the input where the clutch rides are very clean, also.
AND POWER STEERING! But mine is a combination of two tractors!!
If the pilot bearing needs lube (most likely) you'll have to split the tractor. The steering linkages and hydraulic lines are the only part that makes this hard to do. Make sure the splines on the input where the clutch rides are very clean, also.
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
I also have power steering on mine and its one tractor factory equipped with all the good stuff! thanks; sonny
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
SONNY wrote:My 404 never grinds! 404 dont have lpto OR ta, so you are always hooked into direct drive or neutral! ---a very simple tractor to work on,--except if you need to split it,--BUT thats only if you have the optional 2 valve + 3-pt valve bank as I do,---then the splitting is a bear!---I love my 404! --also have a 504 (different story here)-- they have ta--and lpto --3-pt and all the goodies, plus 5- speed transmission just like a 560!
check your adjustment and links --the throw out bearing could be bad, but also could be the pilot bearing is dry/worn and hanging up! I have the service manuals for mine! thanks; sonny
Not to hijack this thread, but is your 404 a Farmall or International?
Al
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
May be IH,---don't remember right off, cept its a utility model,--NOT the rowcrop thingy! thanks; sonny
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
SONNY wrote:May be IH,---don't remember right off, cept its a utility model,--NOT the rowcrop thingy! thanks; sonny
Yes that's an International. Used to be several in the area. Really nice 35-40 HP unit, would like to own one, one day. I never saw a Farmall version until I was grown.
Al
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Re: IH404 Clutch Question
This one came with a loader and at the time I didn't need one so I got rid of the loader,--it then made a super little tractor!--excellent 2-plow 3-point unit., easy to get around with too ---used the big tiller on it until I got the H.D., then put the tiller on it because of the low ,low, low first gear!
I also have the 504 that I am trying to get the motor back in!---also have a 574, same deal, had to get different motor and over-haul it,---still don't have it back in yet!---574 was made in England , making parts hard to get!---IH can get most of the parts for it but not everything!--I want to put a 2000 loader on it off of a 2504 diesel that's a parts tractor, (rod out and would need tires)---would like to have the thing ready for winter , but don't see that done at this time! thanks ; sonny
I also have the 504 that I am trying to get the motor back in!---also have a 574, same deal, had to get different motor and over-haul it,---still don't have it back in yet!---574 was made in England , making parts hard to get!---IH can get most of the parts for it but not everything!--I want to put a 2000 loader on it off of a 2504 diesel that's a parts tractor, (rod out and would need tires)---would like to have the thing ready for winter , but don't see that done at this time! thanks ; sonny
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