Well, the block is stripped, but there are SEVERAL broken off head bolts that have to be extracted. I'm taking my time on that task, so if it takes a weekend or two for each one, so be it.
Anyway, I could NOT get the crank pulley to budge. I used a rosebud torch and had it pretty hot, but it would not move. Maybe I still need more heat. I removed the timing cover, crank, and pulley as one unit. Perhaps it would be best to have it pressed out from this point. It's very pitted from rust, so I might replace it any way, but in case it's salvagable, I 'd like to save it.
I've looked in the parts book, and cannot see anything holing it on, except for a key. Am I right, or is there a bolt down in there that might be holding things up? I searched the archives, but any aditional advice would be appreciated.
This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
'48 Cub Project: Need some help on crank pulley
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Sat Jul 10, 2004 9:31 pm
- Location: Tallahassee, FL
'48 Cub Project: Need some help on crank pulley
Frank-in-Tallahassee
'56 JD 70D // '90 JD 855 // '50 Case VAC // '48 IHC Cub "Boo-Boo" // '41 JD "H"
http://www.fboerger.com
F-I-T's webpage.....ALWAYS under construction !!!
'56 JD 70D // '90 JD 855 // '50 Case VAC // '48 IHC Cub "Boo-Boo" // '41 JD "H"
http://www.fboerger.com
F-I-T's webpage.....ALWAYS under construction !!!
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1127
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 21228
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Catonsville
Front Pulley Removal
Hello F-I-T,
The pulley is pressed onto the shaft and is held with just the key. Most folks use a gear puller with a bearing separator to allow uniform pressure to be applied around the pulley flange. If you pull directly on the flange, it could break. It takes time and lots of patience.
Bill V in Md
The pulley is pressed onto the shaft and is held with just the key. Most folks use a gear puller with a bearing separator to allow uniform pressure to be applied around the pulley flange. If you pull directly on the flange, it could break. It takes time and lots of patience.
Bill V in Md
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1188
- Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2003 6:33 pm
- Zip Code: P0M1Z0
- Tractors Owned: 49 Cub
67 International Cub Loboy
57 Farmall 130 - Location: Northern Ontario
F-I-T,
Looks like you are well under way. I'm wishing you the best of luck on your rebuild. I've done 2 Cub engines so far (although they were pretty "shadetree mechanic-ish" ). The '49 is running great though and does it's share of chores. For sure, the key is, take your time! It's a project and does not need to be done Monday morning!
As for the pulley, do a search on this site and you will find many threads, including some pics by DonnyM and some of the other guys. They will all tell you to use a bearing seperator (the 2 piece kind) that goes in behind the pulley. You will use a threaded bolt setup then to "pull" the separator and the pulley off at the same time. The pictures explain it better.
Good luck.
Looks like you are well under way. I'm wishing you the best of luck on your rebuild. I've done 2 Cub engines so far (although they were pretty "shadetree mechanic-ish" ). The '49 is running great though and does it's share of chores. For sure, the key is, take your time! It's a project and does not need to be done Monday morning!
As for the pulley, do a search on this site and you will find many threads, including some pics by DonnyM and some of the other guys. They will all tell you to use a bearing seperator (the 2 piece kind) that goes in behind the pulley. You will use a threaded bolt setup then to "pull" the separator and the pulley off at the same time. The pictures explain it better.
Good luck.
Just Do It !
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
F-I-T, if you're taking it to be rebuilt and crank ground anyway, why not let the machine shop fight both the pulley and bolts. It won't cost much more than the rebuild and will cut down on the risk of OOPS. If you go ahead with the pulley yourself leave it under pressure and take a small hammer and tap on the shank ever so often. Come back every so often and put just a little more pull on the puller. It sometimes takes a while, but will eventually work.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 3
- 279
-
by john2189
Wed Jun 23, 2021 8:41 am
-
- 11
- 350
-
by Eugene
Mon May 31, 2021 8:32 am
-
- 5
- 177
-
by Rick Spivey
Sat Dec 10, 2022 6:35 pm
-
- 17
- 524
-
by jrgkribel22
Wed Dec 07, 2022 8:10 pm
-
- 18
- 1214
-
by Rick Spivey
Sat Jul 31, 2021 6:50 am
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: EIREfarmer and 4 guests