Loose steering box on a 1962 Farmall Cub. How would you fix this?

[Bob McCarty]

I made a short video that might be helpful.

You didn't mention it but there should be a cotter key through the castellated nut.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I replaced all the fluids when I bought the tractor a couple years ago (including the steering box) and it's been inside my shed ever since (so not exposed to the elements). That said, I did not open the steering box at that point. How would you go about tightening up the tie rod ends?

You can stuff a shim in between the tie rod end ball and the socket it rides in. Careful not to make them too tight, or they can bind and break.

[Don McCombs]

New tie rod ends and ball seats are available from TM Tractor Parts.

[cdahl383]

I made a short video that might be helpful. You should also check your pitman arms to ensure they aren't loose as well.

Thanks! I had actually found your video the other night when I was looking for a solution. As far as I can tell, yours is the only video on how to do that portion of the adjustment.

Yeah I looked around online and couldn't find anything either back when I was looking at mine. I figured I'd make a quick video before I set the tractor back down off the jack. It's not really clear what you're supposed to do, at least it wasn't to me. I'm better with visual aids than instructions. Glad it helped!

[cdahl383]

I made a short video that might be helpful.

https://youtu.be/EyqdYf_S4yg

You should also check your pitman arms to ensure they aren't loose as well.

Is this your video? If so I will also post this in the video how to forum so we will have it for future members.

Yes, that's my video. It's just a basic quick video. It wasn't meant to be an all inclusive how to or anything, but I figured it might be helpful to others out there looking for the basics.

[sgraber]

It's been awhile but I finally got around to tightening up the steering on my Cub from the initial post. I tightened the castellated nut (I was able to turn it about a half turn total) and removed the thick gasket. For some reason there was actually two gaskets in that location so I just removed the really thick one and left the thin one in its place. I do not see any leakage so far. Here's a video of the play that I still have in the steering. Is there anything further I can do or is it as good as I'm going to get?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zqv9HZ79juI

[Dale Finch]

I would be thrilled to only have that much play!!

[Glen]

Hi,
The amount of free play at the steering wheel is not much.
I don't know if anyone said in this post, don't overtighten the nut under the steering gear.
I suggest jacking up the front axle so the front wheels are just off the ground, and turn the steering wheel side to side, and be sure it turns freely. Tightening the nut too tight will make the steering bind.
If there are positions where it binds, loosen the nut 1 space of where the cotter key goes through the nut and shaft, and try turning the steering wheel again.
You will need to loosen the bolt and nut that clamp the arm onto the shaft, so the arm can move.

I would check the places at each end of the tie rods for looseness, have someone turn the steering wheel right and left, through the 1 or 2 inches of the free play several times, and look at the tie rod ends.
All 4 of the places can be adjusted if they are loose.
The center has shims in it. There are 2 bolts going up from the bottom, between the ends of the rods.
You may have to clean off old grease to see the bolt heads. Use a socket and extension to get to them.
Remove 1 or more of the thin shims if needed, to tighten it. Don't remove the thick shim, if it is there.
Again, turn the steering wheel side to side to be sure it turns freely, after making any adjustment to the steering parts.

The outer ends of the tie rods adjust by removing the cotter keys, and turning the screw in ends with a screwdriver.
Be careful, the balls there usually wear more in the straight ahead position, so if you tighten them and remove all the play, the steering may bind when turned to the sides. Loosen them if they bind.
You may not be able to remove all the play in the steering because any of the parts can be worn more in the straight ahead position.
I would use an oil can, and put motor oil on the steering shaft support, by the steering wheel, to slow the wear there.
Oil the throttle linkage, and pedal bases too.
Dale, you could do these adjustments to your Cubs, and see if it helps them.

[k hutchins]

IMHO, you're dealing with a 60 yr old mechanism. There it bound to be some wear where the gears actually mesh together. Without doing a complete replacement/rebuild of the gears l would be pleased with that little play. As Glen said, you don't want it so tight that you have spots where it is going to bind up on you. That little play and no leaks, l'd be very happy with that.

[Gary Dotson]

It’s not like modern automotive steering, even when new, these had a little play. Yours looks quite acceptable, to me.

[sgraber]

The amount of free play at the steering wheel is not much.
I don't know if anyone said in this post, don't overtighten the nut under the steering gear.
I suggest jacking up the front axle so the front wheels are just off the ground, and turn the steering wheel side to side, and be sure it turns freely. Tightening the nut too tight will make the steering bind.
If there are positions where it binds, loosen the nut 1 space of where the cotter key goes through the nut and shaft, and try turning the steering wheel again.
You will need to loosen the bolt and nut that clamp the arm onto the shaft, so the arm can move.

I will double-check this. The steering is definitely "tighter/a bit harder" to turn. I might have overtightened it. I'll check and back off the castle nut a bit if needed. Thanks!