Hello everyone my name is Devin and I’ve had my 1949 cub for about 2 years now. When I first got her I rebuilt the carb and she’s been running a bit rich since I did that. Now this year she isn’t running at all and has fuel fouled 2 sets of plugs. Not sure what to do and what kind of plugs I should put back in her. She currently has Autolite 3116 in now. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
I have also replaced her wires and she seems to have spark. I believe she is getting too much fuel and I think I have set the float height and drop correctly
This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
My cub isn’t running
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:38 am
- Zip Code: 44833
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
-
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20383
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: My cub isn’t running
Welcome.
You said fuel fouled spark plugs. Could it be oil fouled spark plugs?
Debris between the needle valve and seat will cause running rich.
Suggest a complete engine tune up. Starting with compression tests. Compression tests will provide a very good indication of the engine's health.
You could try hotter spark plugs hopefully to burn off some of the fouling. But start with the tune up.
You said fuel fouled spark plugs. Could it be oil fouled spark plugs?
Debris between the needle valve and seat will cause running rich.
Suggest a complete engine tune up. Starting with compression tests. Compression tests will provide a very good indication of the engine's health.
You could try hotter spark plugs hopefully to burn off some of the fouling. But start with the tune up.
I have an excuse. CRS.
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1126
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 21228
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Catonsville
Re: My cub isn’t running
I would revisit the carburetor setup, especially the float setting. Also check your ignition system in terms of points and timing. You need good, clean points with the proper gap. I would also check and reset the timing. The Autolite 3116 is a good non-resistor plug that is compatible with a magneto, which I assume you have. So I doubt that is your problem. Could also check the oil bath air intake cleaner, because you need good air flow for proper combustion.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 581
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 8:28 am
- Zip Code: 48154
- Tractors Owned: 2021 RK25 "Barbie"
1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub (SOLD)
1994 Speedex 1631 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Howell, MI
Re: My cub isn’t running
I will add that you shouldn't just go by the float height. Do a fuel level check as described in the service manual. I found that my fuel level was 3/16" too high when I set the float height to spec.
It's entirely possible that something in my carburetor isn't original or to original spec. Can you be certain all yours is after 71 years?
It's entirely possible that something in my carburetor isn't original or to original spec. Can you be certain all yours is after 71 years?
1944 Farmall H
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
1948 Farmall Cub
1994 Speedex 1631
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:38 am
- Zip Code: 44833
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
Re: My cub isn’t running
Thank you for the advice. I hope to get back into the shop this week to work on her. I will post an update hopefully by next weekend
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: My cub isn’t running
DKoons wrote:Thank you for the advice. I hope to get back into the shop this week to work on her. I will post an update hopefully by next weekend
I was having the same problem a while back; fouling plugs, not running right. I found out the fuel jet orifice was too big. I replaced it with a 0.030 size and it solved the rich running issue.
Check out this thread (remember, the smaller the jet opening the leaner the fuel mixture):http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=107871
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: My cub isn’t running
BTW: Welcome to the Forum!
Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:
Now that you have 2 posts, you'll have access to all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:
We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084
Take some pictures of your tractors and post them, we’d like to see them.
Remember:
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.
Glad you joined us.
The
Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum:
- Welcome Wagon
- How to Upload Pictures to a Post
- Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
- Using the Forum
Now that you have 2 posts, you'll have access to all the PDF Manuals on this site. There’s a few ways to do that:
- From a desktop or laptop, go to "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals".
- You can also go to “Cub Info” in the upper toolbar, then hit “Rudi’s Manuals”. From there, you can access a variety of information.
- If you're using a phone, go to the "Links Directory" (second category down the main page). Once in "Links Directory" , scroll down to the second section "Tractor Parts & Manuals" and you'll find them there.
We’d encourage you to take the Safety Test located in the Safety Forum: http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68084
Take some pictures of your tractors and post them, we’d like to see them.
Remember:
• When you have a specific question, start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum.
• Before posting, use the Preview button before hitting Submit--it'll show you exactly what your post will look like, including pictures.
• When adding your comments to a thread, be sure to look at the date of the last poster. If it’s more than a 6 months old, the posters are probably not going to see it. Consider starting a new thread.
Glad you joined us.
The
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6157
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: My cub isn’t running
Hi,
Here is some info for cleaning and repairing the IH carburetor, if you need it.
Before taking the carb apart, clean the outside of it, to keep dirt out of the carb.
When taking it apart, pull the 2 halves of the carb straight apart several inches, there is a small idle tube that screws into the top half of the carb, it can break if you twist it, or don't pull the 2 halves straight apart.
Use carb cleaner, or solvent to clean inside the carb.
All the passages need to be open and clean.
Blow them out with compressed air, and be sure they are open. Use your safety goggles when using the air.
Remove the main jet, the 6 sided brass colored part low on the side of the carb, and run a small wire in the hole in the end of it, to be sure it is open, and then wash the jet.
Tighten it gently, it can break. It should have a fiber washer under the head, to seal it, sometimes if the washer is old, it won't seal if you reuse it.
The needle and seat could have dirt in it, making it not seal. Remove the float and the needle and check for dirt, clean the needle and seat.
Check the float, it should look in good condition, not collapsed or corroded.
Shake it gently while it is off, it has to be dry inside, no gas inside it.
If it is good, it can be used again.
Assemble the needle and float again.
It is important that the float level and float drop be set exactly.
People on here have said that their carb wouldn't work right until they set the float level exactly.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing setting the float height.
The IH carburetor is in the upper pics on the page, the Zenith carb in the lower pics.
To set the float level, turn the top half of the carb upside down, like the pic of the Zenith carb, in the lower right of the page.
The gasket between the halves has to be off, when measuring the float level of the IH carb.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-09.jpg
Bob McCarty converted the measurements to use a dial caliper, it is easier.
The float level is 1.4"
The float drop is 1.6"
The tab on the float arm has to face up.
Sometimes the float is upside down.
Put it in the right way, if it is upside down.
Bend the float arm between the float and where the needle touches it, to change the float height.
Turn the top half right side up to set the float drop.
Bend the tab in or out to change the float drop.
The needle and seat could be wornout from years of use, and don't seal, then the carb can drip on the ground when the Cub is sitting.
I have seen them that were wornout, they dripped, and then it quit dripping after putting in new ones.
The IH carb has a small screen where the gas line attaches to the carb, be sure it is clean.
Tighten everything on the carb gently, the IH carb is soft metal, and threads can strip.
The carb top can warp if the screws are tightened too much.
You could check the gasket surface of the top when it is off using a straight edge.
TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has new carb parts.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the IH carb.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg
Cubs have a manual choke, you have to use the right amount of choke when the engine is cold, until it warms up, so it runs good.
Below is a pic of an IH carb float from TM Tractor, showing the tab for the float drop.
Here is some info for cleaning and repairing the IH carburetor, if you need it.
Before taking the carb apart, clean the outside of it, to keep dirt out of the carb.
When taking it apart, pull the 2 halves of the carb straight apart several inches, there is a small idle tube that screws into the top half of the carb, it can break if you twist it, or don't pull the 2 halves straight apart.
Use carb cleaner, or solvent to clean inside the carb.
All the passages need to be open and clean.
Blow them out with compressed air, and be sure they are open. Use your safety goggles when using the air.
Remove the main jet, the 6 sided brass colored part low on the side of the carb, and run a small wire in the hole in the end of it, to be sure it is open, and then wash the jet.
Tighten it gently, it can break. It should have a fiber washer under the head, to seal it, sometimes if the washer is old, it won't seal if you reuse it.
The needle and seat could have dirt in it, making it not seal. Remove the float and the needle and check for dirt, clean the needle and seat.
Check the float, it should look in good condition, not collapsed or corroded.
Shake it gently while it is off, it has to be dry inside, no gas inside it.
If it is good, it can be used again.
Assemble the needle and float again.
It is important that the float level and float drop be set exactly.
People on here have said that their carb wouldn't work right until they set the float level exactly.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing setting the float height.
The IH carburetor is in the upper pics on the page, the Zenith carb in the lower pics.
To set the float level, turn the top half of the carb upside down, like the pic of the Zenith carb, in the lower right of the page.
The gasket between the halves has to be off, when measuring the float level of the IH carb.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-09.jpg
Bob McCarty converted the measurements to use a dial caliper, it is easier.
The float level is 1.4"
The float drop is 1.6"
The tab on the float arm has to face up.
Sometimes the float is upside down.
Put it in the right way, if it is upside down.
Bend the float arm between the float and where the needle touches it, to change the float height.
Turn the top half right side up to set the float drop.
Bend the tab in or out to change the float drop.
The needle and seat could be wornout from years of use, and don't seal, then the carb can drip on the ground when the Cub is sitting.
I have seen them that were wornout, they dripped, and then it quit dripping after putting in new ones.
The IH carb has a small screen where the gas line attaches to the carb, be sure it is clean.
Tighten everything on the carb gently, the IH carb is soft metal, and threads can strip.
The carb top can warp if the screws are tightened too much.
You could check the gasket surface of the top when it is off using a straight edge.
TM Tractor, at the bottom of the page, has new carb parts.
Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the IH carb.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg
Cubs have a manual choke, you have to use the right amount of choke when the engine is cold, until it warms up, so it runs good.
Below is a pic of an IH carb float from TM Tractor, showing the tab for the float drop.
- Attachments
-
- Cub float.jpg (13.96 KiB) Viewed 311 times
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 10:16 am
- Zip Code: 29527
- Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall H - "Ray R." (SN FBH 366519)
1959 Farmall Cub - "Pea" (SN 211538 J)
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100 - (SN 92562)
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106 - (SN 380760)
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
Tractor previously owned:
1951 Farmall Cub - "Johnny R." - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Conway, South Carolina
Re: My cub isn’t running
EXCELLENT "How to", Glen. I'm bookmarking those instructions. Thanks!
"That's the great thing about a tractor. You can't really hear the phone ring."
Jeff Foxworthy
1951 Farmall H
1959 Farmall Cub
1964 IH Cub Cadet 100
1971 IH Cub Cadet 106
2018 Husqvarna YTH18542
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:38 am
- Zip Code: 44833
- Tractors Owned: 1949 Cub
Re: My cub isn’t running
Update
Thanks for all the advice guys. I finally got back into the shop and worked on the old girl for a bit and turns out it was the fuel level. I also replaced the plugs and cleaned the points and made sure the timing was set. Then she started right up like nothing was ever wrong
Got her plowed hooked up and now waiting on the snow. Thanks again for all the help
Thanks for all the advice guys. I finally got back into the shop and worked on the old girl for a bit and turns out it was the fuel level. I also replaced the plugs and cleaned the points and made sure the timing was set. Then she started right up like nothing was ever wrong
Got her plowed hooked up and now waiting on the snow. Thanks again for all the help
-
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17498
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: My cub isn’t running
Just curious. What do you mean by fuel level? Float set improperly or insufficient fuel in the tank?
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post
-
- 7
- 276
-
by Clemsonfor
Sun Oct 10, 2021 7:57 pm
-
- 5
- 139
-
by Jim Becker
Mon Mar 18, 2024 2:17 pm
-
- 7
- 297
-
by Glen
Wed Feb 28, 2024 4:30 pm
-
- 8
- 338
-
by smallfarm
Mon Jul 17, 2023 6:35 am
-
- 19
- 780
-
by Eugene
Mon Oct 17, 2022 9:33 am
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Jim Becker, Kalebtrojacek and 4 guests