outdoors4evr wrote:I put this together earlier and thought it would be useful to others as well. This is a 184 clutch replacement procedure.
1) Remove Mower deck
2) Remove side covers and flywheel cover. Tunnel cover can be removed as well, but is not required.
3) Unhook steering shaft at rear and rotate out of way
4) Unhook clutch fork adjustment rod at and remove the clutch fork (PAY ATTENTION TO WHICH SIDE IS FRONT)
5) Use a 3/4" open end to move the belt tensioner in and slip the PTO belts off toward the front of tractor (unloading tensioner spring)
6) Remove the rockshaft and tensioner spring - A floor jack helps lower it without injury (This is greasy, need lots of towels)
7) Use Snap Ring Pliers to move snap ring forward on the driveshaft (by the U-Joint carrier)Loosen 4 allen head set screws on U-Joint and slide it forward off the transmission
9) Slide the driveshaft down, back, and out. (Easiest done from underneath the tractor)
10) Relocate PTO belts off the pulley and slide them back, up, and from the top pull them out of the way. This is a good opportunity to replace these but these MUST be a matched pair. Recommend purchasing FROM IH.
11) Remove screws from the clutch pressure plate and PTO Belt Drive (Easiest done from underneath the tractor)
You can get to 3 screws at a time, rotate engine by hand to access the next 3.
12) Push PTO Belt Drive upward and back to let the clutch and pressure plate fall out the bottom between the PTO Belt Drive Mounts. Then wiggle the PTO Belt drive out the bottom.
13) Remove the flywheel if needed to reface flywheel or to replace the pilot bearing.
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If changing the PTO Belts, you will need to partially disassemble the electric PTO clutch.
Count the exposed bolt threads on the electric PTO and take a picture of it before you disassemble. That way you can thread the bolts back to the same place as it is currently. These are not bolts that you "tighten." Too tight and your PTO won't disconnect. Too loose and your PTO won't stay engaged.
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The reassembly procedure:
Install the pilot bearing and mount the flywheel to the crankshaft and torque to spec. Verify the driveshaft slides into the pilot bearing. Ream the pilot bearing to fit the driveshaft if needed.
Mount the pressure plate loosely to the flywheel with the clutch trapped loosely inside. Install the PTO drive pulley to the flywheel and torque to spec.
Install the PTO belts loosely. Slide the throwout bearing carrier and the u-joint carrier onto the driveshaft. Install the driveshaft making certain that it is fully inserted in the pilot bearing - This takes a bit of time to line up the clutch and pilot bearing as it is impossible to see what you are doing.
The driveshaft with the u-joint carrier should clear the transmission by 1/4" before you slide the u-joint carrier back onto the transmission input shaft. If you have less space, then it probably isn't all the way in the pilot bearing.
Once you have the driveshaft mounted (u-Joint carrier is on the transmission input shaft) push the driveshaft forward into the pilot bearing and tighten the allen head screws on the u-Joint carrier (all 4).
Now go back and tighten down the pressure plate bolts to spec.
Rotate the throwout bearing carrier so that the zerk is on the left side of the tractor (looking forward from the seat) and install the clutch fork.
Adjust fork so that when clutch released, there is a hairs width of space between the throwout and the fingers. The throwout should be able to turn freely when the clutch is released.
I typically connect steering rod and start the tractor, drive it around a bit and adjust the clutch at this point - before putting all the rockshaft parts and the PTO Belt Tensioner back on. If satisfied with the clutch, then button it up.
Thank you very much for posting thieve tips. They will be extremely helpful.
Do you know if the clutch alignment tool that fits the 154, 185, and also says cub and locub I believe fit the 184? A
