Farmall newbie - Looking at getting a 154

[danvito]

Hey all, as the subject says, I am a Farmall newbie. I've been a Wheelhorse guy, restored an Onan powered 520H several years ago but have wanted a Farmall for years. I have the opportunity to purchase a 154 from a friend of mine that I'm seriously considering. It comes with a blade and belly mower. It sat for years under covered storage but to my surprise, he gave her a little carb cleaning and she fired right up. ID plate has worn off so unsure of year. The only issues I've found so far is the hydraulics raise fine but will not lower unless the engine is shut off. Also my biggest concern, the air tube between the air filter and carb was missing so it has probably injested some dirt . We found the tube but the rubber boots are hard as a rock and the inside of the tube is a little rusted. The engine doesn't appear to smoke much though and seems to have good power so maybe it's ok, are these pretty tough? Anybody know a good place to find the rubber boots and a new air filter and what I could do to clean the rusty pipe? Also anything else I should check/look out for? I don't plan to use this for mowing, only pulling the kids in a trailer and light towing. Thanks in advance!

[Don McCombs]

Hamilton Bob, one of our site sponsors, is a good place for Lo-Boy parts & pieces. Check the link at the bottom of this page.

[Bob McCarty]

Welcome to the Forum.

[john2189]

What are the 4x4s for?

[danvito]

Thank you Don, I'm already building a cart on Hamiltons now. The 4x4 was to hold the blade up since the hydraulics weren't working, at first they wouldn't raise up or lower but now they raise but won't lower unless the engine is off. I'm planning on doing a fluid change with fresh Hy-Tran and hope it works itself out. If I can't find Hy-Tran at my dealer what's the next best thing? Is the stuff at TSC ok to use in the trans and final drives?

[Jim Becker]

Just guessing here. Could a mostly clogged filter keep the lift from dropping? Will it go down with the engine running if you add some extra weight to the mower?

TSC has 2 grades of hydraulic fluid. The better grade, Universal Hydraulic Fluid is OK.

[Eugene]

Change the hydraulic filter when you change the hydraulic oil.

[outdoors4evr]

Nice looking tractor with a great set of brand new tires!
The hydraulics are 1-way. They are meant to extend the cylinder and depend on gravity or manual intervention to retract the cylinder.
Something is definitely not right though, the cylinder should not extend or retract with the engine off. It should "stay put" when the engine is not running. Maybe go through the hydraulic spool valve? Here's a PDF that was done about the 184 spool valve (very similar).

184_Hydraulic_SpoolValve.pdf

(251.61 KiB) Downloaded 426 times

While replacing a filter may be a good thing to do, the fact that the cylinder extends tells us that is probably not the root cause. Also, I do agree with Eugene, change both the filter and hydraulic oil (Hytran) at the same time. CaseIH tractor dealers should carry Hytran. Equivalents are available.

[Stanton]

Welcome to the forum. Let us know if you go ahead and buy the 154.

[outdoors4evr]

I might be tempted to clean out that intake tube with a wire tubing brush.

What's the car with the whitewall tires in the background?

[Jim Becker]

. . . While replacing a filter may be a good thing to do, the fact that the cylinder extends tells us that is probably not the root cause. . . .

I'm not very familiar with the details of the 154 hydraulic system. I could be totally wrong. But isn't the filter in the return line from the valve back to the transmission? When the valve is moved to the raise position, isn't all flow directed to the cylinder while flow to the filter is cut off? Then in the lower position, flow from the pump plus return flow from the cylinder both are directed through the filter?

[Eugene]

Changing the filter and hydraulic fluid is an easy start. If that doesn't help or solve the problem you will need to repair the control valve.

I didn't see a diverter valve on the panel in front of the seat, the usual location. I would carefully look the tractor over to determine exactly how the hydraulic system is plumbed. Pull the panel in front of the seat, between the operators knees. See if there is anything there except hydraulic lines. - - - While there check the clutch linkage and grease the throw out bearing.

Outdoors4ever is correct in that the implement should not drop with the engine off.

[Jim Becker]

. . . they raise but won't lower unless the engine is off. . . .

I'm assuming it only lowers when the lever is moved to lower. If so, isn't that normal? If not, there is a check valve somewhere in there that isn't working.

[Eugene]

Parts and service manual, must have.

There are at least two slightly different hydraulic systems used on the numbered Cubs. Depending on which hydraulic system, one system the circuit relief valve is external to the control valve. The other system, the circuit relief valve is contained in the control valve.

Check and do the easy stuff first. Part of the easy stuff, check the hand control linkage for the control valve.

[gitractorman]

Nice looking 154. That is an early one, probably 1969 or 1970. Yes, they're tough little tractors, and nice power for their size due to the gear reductions in the final drives, so definitely good for pulling a small trailer around.
I wouldn't be surprised that the hydraulics don't lower from the weight of the blade, it's really not that heavy at all. I had one just about like yours that wouldn't lower the Woods mower deck, which has to weigh twice what that blade does. I had my kids stand on each side of the mower deck, cycled it up/down about 10 times, and everything started working fine. They're really prone to sticking and not lowering easily, especially one that has sat for any time. Typically, if you work them a bunch, up and down, they'll lubricate the lift cylinder and seals and start to free up. Check the rockshaft to make sure it's greased and moving freely. Also, make sure that all of the linkage for the blade is free, and not bound up or sticking. I'd try to throw some weight on the blade, maybe some tires or chains, or anything heavy that you can hang on it, then try to cycle it up / down a bunch. Changing out the hydro fluid and filter could help too, but I'll bet it's just crudded up from sitting.