184 overcharging battery

[outdoors4evr]

Check the resistor. It should be a 25 ohm resistor. Remove the wires from it and measure it with an ohmmeter.
Anything close is good.

[Jim Becker]

. . . They found an alternator that was the same but the orientation of the housing was slightly different. . .

It is probably just assembled in a different orientation. The two halves of the alternator can be rotated in quarter turn increments and bolted together. It will work OK whichever position it is in.

Outdoors4evr gave you the right thing to check on the remaining problem. The original resistor on the back of the alternator looks just like a common ballast resistor. Somebody may have substituted a ballast resistor. But a ballast resistor is less than 2 ohms and will not keep the engine from running with the switch off.

[hoythunter25]

. . . They found an alternator that was the same but the orientation of the housing was slightly different. . .

It is probably just assembled in a different orientation. The two halves of the alternator can be rotated in quarter turn increments and bolted together. It will work OK whichever position it is in.

Outdoors4evr gave you the right thing to check on the remaining problem. The original resistor on the back of the alternator looks just like a common ballast resistor. Somebody may have substituted a ballast resistor. But a ballast resistor is less than 2 ohms and will not keep the engine from running with the switch off.

Yes thanks Jim it worked just fine in the different orientation. Also I think you are correct on the resistor, I just went and tested it and it is only showing 1.5 ohms. So what is this resistor type called instead of a "common ballist resistor"? Or how do I source the correct one?

[Gary Dotson]

The correct resister does have the appearance of a common ballast resister, but much higher resistance value. Hamilton Bob has one listed but says it's a 4 ohm resister. My opinion, that's far too low. I'm not sure how high the resistance needs to be, to assure the engine will shut off, maybe 4 ohm is enough, but I'm skeptical. You could always use a diode in place of the resister.

[Eugene]

https://s101.photobucket.com/user/farma ... sort=4&o=3

Diagram #5 lists the value of the ballast resistor and the lamp. The lamp in the diagram is used to keep the alternator from back feeding the ignition system.

Tractor runs and shuts off with the ignition switch - per reading the original post.

[Jim Becker]

The original resistor was 25 ohms. The old part number in the catalog is 534784R1, replaced by 107558C1. The difference may be a change to a stamped steel mounting bracket that requires a shorter bolt. If you put the newer number into a google search, you can find them all over the place in the $15 to $20 range, not much more than an incorrect ballast resistor.

To reinforce Eugene's comment, Note that in diagram 5 the ballast resistor shown is actually in the ignition circuit. The bulb (and diode option) shown does the function of the resistor we are talking about.

[Eugene]

I wouldn't be concerned about the exact value of the ballast resistor attached to the back of the alternator at this time, - because the tractor shuts off with the ignition switch.

And I assume there is a second resistor, in series, in the ignition coil.

And that circuit is also used to excite the alternator upon engine start up, and is apparently working.

Suggest solving the overcharging problem first.

[hoythunter25]

I wouldn't be concerned about the exact value of the ballast resistor attached to the back of the alternator at this time, - because the tractor shuts off with the ignition switch.

And I assume there is a second resistor, in series, in the ignition coil.

And that circuit is also used to excite the alternator upon engine start up, and is apparently working.

Suggest solving the overcharging problem first.

The overcharging issue is solved, the alternator was bad and I purchased a new one but the tractor still doesn't shut off with the key.

[Eugene]

The overcharging issue is solved, the alternator was bad and I purchased a new one but the tractor still doesn't shut off with the key.

Simple check. Start engine, turn key off, disconnect on of the wires from the resistor. If engine dies, you will need to upgrade the resistor(s). Diode would be an easy upgrade.

Quote from unknown source.

Our Ballast Resistor is designed to be used in conjunction with our available External Resisted Ignitions Coils. External Resisted Ignition Coils have an internal resistance of 1.5 Ohms and when combined with the Ballast Resistor you get a total resistance of 3.0 Ohms which is necessary for 12 Volt ignitions systems.

[hoythunter25]

[/quote]Simple check. Start engine, turn key off, disconnect on of the wires from the resistor. If engine dies, you will need to upgrade the resistor(s). Diode would be an easy upgrade.

I will try that thanks! Is there any write ups on doing the diode upgrade? What all do I need to purchase? Any pictures? Sorry I am not an electrical whiz of any sort..

[Gary Dotson]

I don't know if anything has been put in the how to forum, but it's really very simple. All you need is a diode and a couple wire terminals. Install the diode with the little arrow toward the alternator. I don't think the watt rating on the diode is too important but it should be robust enough to survive in that environment. Any electronics store will have something that will work.

[Gary Dotson]

I just took a quickie look at ebay, diodes are cheap! I saw 3 amp, 10 for $1.89, I'm certain that such a diode will work just fine.

[hoythunter25]

I just took a quickie look at ebay, diodes are cheap! I saw 3 amp, 10 for $1.89, I'm certain that such a diode will work just fine.

Ok, I will check ebay because I don't know if any "electronic" stores exist anymore after Radio shack went belly up.

So if I am understanding the diagram correct I would just wire it up in the wire between #1 terminal on alternator and where it plugs into the resistor?

[Jim Becker]

Yes, it just goes in place of the resistor with the striped end towards the alternator.

Diagram 5, referenced above calls for a 1N4001 diode. That number is only rated for 1 amp. A lot of common variations would handle that.

[Larry B]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anti-Feed-Back ... 2043261434

Easiest way to add a diode. Will need to connect the resistor wires together.