Getting Even

[outdoors4evr]

Yup. Engine RPM's slow when you stand on the clutch and push it all the way to the stop. Right now I have it adjusted "too tight" and the throwout is currently always in contact with the fingers. I'll re-adjust as soon as I can get it to shift without grinding.

[mozer71]

I can't say this particularly applies but here goes. Aftermarket stuff is made to what they "think" should work, like in this case, they expect the flywheel is always worn to a certain depth. What I'm getting to is shims between the flywheel and pressure plate. These would be precision flat metal whose holes are punched out (only way to do it) giving you just enough clearance. I know, more work but don't throw in the towel now. So close and reminds me of a situation. Hot day driving Rt. 66 at 70 mph, engine stumbles. Temp gage is pegged out hot. Let cool a bit, refill with drinking water. Continue a few more miles with heater on max, hot as blazes get more water. I figured the head gasket went and now the engine was shot too. I must've put something in the water to get us back another 45 miles. Turns out the engine wasn't too bad. The head gasket had corroded and aluminum head was shot. So I bought a new head on Ebay. Adjusted all the valves and other stuff and it was tight and right. Did a compression test and crazy numbers 185lbs 200lbs out the roof so I used Hi octane fuel and additives for awhile. Then I went to Ebay again and there it was. Oh. You need a special thicker gasket for those heads.

[outdoors4evr]

If I can't get this worn in and working properly by the snow pushing season, I'll probably be making spacers or putting in a new old stock clutch that has rivets replaced with bolts.

[mozer71]

Rivets replaced with bolts but the alignment is so much better now.

[outdoors4evr]

Update: I have 1.5 hours of 2nd gear mowing time on the new clutch now. I am mowing all the wide open spaces with the loboy so I don't have to change gears or back up. I'm still shutting down the tractor to change gears. The clutch is still too tight, but getting more and more manageable. The tractor will come to a complete stop on level ground, but the clutch disc is still rubbing and I cannot change gears without grinding. If I sit there too long, the clutch will start to heat up and then the tractor shutters as the clutch gets grabby.

After mowing, everything cooled back down and I had some dirt to move with the bucket. This typically means lots of gear changes. I saw that the driveshaft actually came to a stop on its own when I depressed the clutch. YEA! Progress! While the clutch was cold, it would let me change gears without any grinding, but a few minutes into the work, I was back to shutting off the tractor to make gear changes. Good thing I only needed two buckets of dirt moved. Maybe this will break in ok after all.

[mozer71]

It needed to be used and wore in like you said.

[outdoors4evr]

So snow season arrived on time for Michigan, but it came as a 9” dump. I can shift as long as I don’t let the clutch out in neutral. I’m guessing it helps being cold. I now have roughly ~5 hours on the new clutch. (Need to verify the hourmeter)
There are a lot of gear changes involved with snow plowing! I may have to go the spacer route.

[BigBill]

My 154 new clutch is giving me fits it won’t release. I’m taking out the hd spirol pin and putting in a shoulder bolt. It’s sitting, it needs the clutch release fixed, new battery cables and the carb rebuilt.

[outdoors4evr]

Look at your clutch. Does it have raised portions about 0.1” high? The raised portions are probably non factory spec thickness. If you are just going to wear that off till it will release, then you may as well just buy one without the raised portions or turn them down.
I’m a bit frustrated with mine. Since I have no access to a lathe, I’ll probably end up putting spacers under the pressure plate.

[Gary Dotson]

I never much cared for the idea of putting shims under the pressure plate mounting but I think that will be your best course of action. It will probably only take about .020" to make your clutch livable.

[wagonmaster]

Could the fork be in backwards? The way it's shaped I think it's possible to put in wrong.

[outdoors4evr]

Could the fork be in backwards? The way it's shaped I think it's possible to put in wrong.

You can put the clutch fork in backwards, but one way it has very little throw and the other way it is better. Good thought on this!
I have definitely turned that darn thing over about 30 times!

[findmeoutside]

Update: I have 1.5 hours of 2nd gear mowing time on the new clutch now. I am mowing all the wide open spaces with the loboy so I don't have to change gears or back up. I'm still shutting down the tractor to change gears. The clutch is still too tight, but getting more and more manageable. The tractor will come to a complete stop on level ground, but the clutch disc is still rubbing and I cannot change gears without grinding. If I sit there too long, the clutch will start to heat up and then the tractor shutters as the clutch gets grabby.

After mowing, everything cooled back down and I had some dirt to move with the bucket. This typically means lots of gear changes. I saw that the driveshaft actually came to a stop on its own when I depressed the clutch. YEA! Progress! While the clutch was cold, it would let me change gears without any grinding, but a few minutes into the work, I was back to shutting off the tractor to make gear changes. Good thing I only needed two buckets of dirt moved. Maybe this will break in ok after all.

Man, i too am getting ready for michigan snow. Just got the plow on without severing fingers! I have been back and forth adjusting the clutch pedal and clutch brake. Sometimes it lets me shift, sometimes not. I have been using a screwdriver to push into the brake linkage while pressing the pedal. Im thinking its sloppy linkage since its intermittent?

[mozer71]

You got a load from what I saw. The Hy Tran or equivalent is thin and gears keep spinning when the clutch is depressed. But there has been mentioned the disk is too thick. You are right, the linkages are worn in their pivot points. All these wear areas add up to a difference between solid contact and not complete release.

[outdoors4evr]

Well Hour #7 on this clutch disc. And now it won't release at all. Looks like I am tearing it back apart.