F-20 teardown finally

[mcwinter]

After sitting in my garage / shed for at least 20 years, I finally worked up the nerve to start disassembling my 1936 F-20. I'm sure I will need a lot of help getting it apart and back together. Currently have the head off the top and oil pan off the bottom, with the engine lifted and set sideways on the frame. I have the clutch housing cover removed, but the clutch assembly is stuck to the flywheel with all cap screws removed. Tried tapping around the edge with a sledge and 2X4. Any tips getting it free? I assume some large pry bars and/or heat would be next to try. I also need to get the crank pin out of the end of the crankshaft. It appears to be slightly mushroomed where one side enters the crankshaft. I assume I will need to cut off/grind down one side and try to tap it out. Any other ideas? Thanks

Mike

[Slim140]

The crank pin is probably pressed in so the centrifugal force doesn’t sling it out. I’d grind one side off and use a little heat around it and try to tap it out with a brass punch. Don’t know what to tell you about the clutch other than a pry bar.

[mcwinter]

Here is a pic I had intended to include in the original post showing the engine resting sideways on the frame.

[T-Mo]

Keep us posted on the progress. I love the older Farmalls, I wish I had a F-12 or a F-14.

[Stanton]

Yes, I'd echo T-Mo's comment about keeping us posted and with questions. You probably should be taking pictures along the way for your own records, so why not post them? We're very much interested.

[mcwinter]

Thanks Shane for confirming that I just needed a little more persuasion on the clutch assembly. My 6 foot tree planter did the trick. I need to find some bars between that and me one foot pry.

I am taking photos as I go since I know I won't remember how everything looks when I go to reassemble at some time in the future. I will add some more here. I tacked on a few pics from underneath showing two rod bearing caps prior to taking them apart.

I am debating whether to try to remove the flywheel. From reading other's experience they are stubborn, and I would need to put together a puller or try to find one. The benefits would be I could assess the front seal condition and fully clean out the clutch housing. I do not intend to remove the crankshaft provided it frees it up once the pistons are out and the bearings seem OK.

One general question I have is on fasteners. When I need to replace hardware, should I stick to one grade, and what grade should that be?

Thanks

MJW

[Eugene]

One general question I have is on fasteners. When I need to replace hardware, should I stick to one grade, and what grade should that be?

I use grade 5 fasteners for all applications unless a higher grade is specified.

Reason, grade 5 fasteners are readily available at local hardware stores and less expensive than grade 8.

[SONNY]

I have an F-20 that became stuck sitting in a guys shed. I probably will never get it fixed, ( hand crank and thats out for me now) Not sure of the year but the seller said around 36 or so on the year.
I don't have any books on the F-20's, but helped dad put rings in one 57 years ago.---not a hard tractor to work on but some of the parts do get hard to get loose!

[T-Mo]

I have an F-20 that became stuck sitting in a guys shed. I probably will never get it fixed, ( hand crank and thats out for me now) Not sure of the year but the seller said around 36 or so on the year.
I don't have any books on the F-20's, but helped dad put rings in one 57 years ago.---not a hard tractor to work on but some of the parts do get hard to get loose!

There are manuals in the appropriate section of the "PDF Manuals" section here on the F-20.

[tmays]

Piston and sleeve sets are not an easy find and are pricey when you find them. Course you may not need new ones

[mcwinter]

I'm hoping to reuse what's there. I don't plan to spend a ton on this tractor, no real sentimental value and mainly a learning experience for me. If I can get it to run again that would be a success.

[mcwinter]

Wondering if that joint line is where the engine support separates to come off or if everything surrounding the crank shaft comes off with the engine support.

Top view showing tight area between engine support and front gear cover.

Front view of engine support.

Update and question.

Made some progress getting 3 of 4 pistons removed. Number 3 still won't budge so giving it a little more time with PB blaster.

Cut and ground off the crank pin. Hasn't responded yet to trying to punch out so may end up drilling it out. With the crank pin out of the way, the fan drive pulley came off easily. Then removed two felt seals and a spacer/seal carrier from the shaft.

The next step in the service manual before pulling off the front cover is to remove the engine support. That is all the guidance provided in the manual. The engine support is not loose, and doesn't have any obvious fasteners. Don't know if it is pressed on some other part on the front, or if is is just corroded to the surrounding parts. Any suggestions for freeing up and removing the engine support?

Thanks

MJW

[mcwinter]

Front cover problem solved. Engine support came off with cover. Looks to be a light press on cover, and corrosion has made it a tight fit. Only one stuck piston yet to remove.

[mcwinter]

Update - stuck piston 3 removed a while back. Had to clamp a bottle jack to the top end and force out the piston. Main problem seemed to be corrosion causing binding. Piston and sleeve look usable still. Planning to clean up and install new rings, hone cylinders, and put back together.

I have been looking for different 36" wheels so they can be turned in to narrow up the rear end, Current wheels are cut down 28" rims and need to be turned out to clear the brakes. I bought two cast wheels, and discovered they have a 3.5" thick flange compared to the 1/2" flange on the original wheels. Will need longer hub bolts. I do have a TC-13 parts catalog, but haven't found part numbers yet for the hub bolting. Many different configurations of rear wheels in the catalog. Any help with required bolting / part numbers for these cast wheels? I believe I will need studs with threads on each end since they will need to insert from the outside since they should be 3" longer than old bolts. Pictures below. Thanks

[mcwinter]

During attempts to remove head studs, two snapped off about even with the block surface. Some of them did come out, but I left the rest. I have drilled out the broken studs (one more centered than the other) but neither would loosen up with an easy out.

The well centered hole I have drilled out to 3/8" almost to the edge of the block threads. I have tried to get a tap started, but not enough threads available yet to get it going.

Any suggestions for how to remove the remaining stud material? Drill out more to enable the 1/2"-13 tap to work? Drill out the holes enough to use some sort of thread insert?

Thanks