Setting the timing on a 100

[customcutter]

I bought a 100 a couple of weeks ago from a man I met at the Central Fl Flywheelers back in February. When he had it there it was running but would run wide open when he cranked it. He has since repaired the governor, but now when he tries to crank it, it backfires. I'm going to try picking it up tomorrow and want to try re-timing it.

I'm thinking he might have gotten the timing off by a tooth when re-assembling the governor. I've been doing some reading and from what I gather to re-time the governor I would have to pull the radiator, etc to get the bolts out of the front.

I'm thinking that I could get the #1 cylinder at TDC by turning the crank by hand until compression pops my finger off the spark plug hole. Then visually inspect the rotor button to see if it is on #1. Is this an accurate enough method of checking TDC? If the rotor button isn't on #1 plug wire, it should be easier to pull the distributor and adjust it rather than pulling the governor? Is this a viable alternative or do I need to pull the governor? I know there should be a timing mark on the fly wheel behind the inspection plate on the bell housing if I need to check it.

Thoughts or suggestions?
TIA Ken

[customcutter]

I found an excellent video on setting the timing on a Super A after rebuilding an engine. I'm going to try pulling the distributor first and timing it to the #1 plug wire at TDC. If it doesn't work, I'll pull the radiator, governor, etc and time it to the camshaft. Here's a link hope it helps if anyone else is having an issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIpb2kxRYPc

[SamsFarm]

Here ya go!

[customcutter]

delete

[SamsFarm]

Wow, that's amazing! You posted the same video that I posted an hour and a half later than I did.

I just took your link and reposted it on your behalf in the youtube feature so anyone can just view it on this site.

I did not even watch the video!

[Jim Becker]

His method of timing will work. I never saw anyone install a distributor by pulling the shaft out and installing it first. It would get you past a problem caused by not getting the governor gear in time. The only thing I saw in the video that didn't look good was jacking under the engine oil pan.

[customcutter]

Wow, that's amazing! You posted the same video that I posted an hour and a half later than I did.

I just took your link and reposted it on your behalf in the youtube feature so anyone can just view it on this site.

I did not even watch the video!

Thanks Sam

[customcutter]

His method of timing will work. I never saw anyone install a distributor by pulling the shaft out and installing it first. It would get you past a problem caused by not getting the governor gear in time. The only thing I saw in the video that didn't look good was jacking under the engine oil pan.

Yes, I agree a little sketchy on supporting the tractor.

I'm going to try it before pulling the front of the tractor. I picked up the 100 today. I asked the PO if he had pulled the gear out when working on the governor and he said yes, he had pulled it so many times trying to time it that he lost count. Hopefully it won't be a major problem and is the only thing going on. He was unaware of the timing marks on the governor and cam gear.

[customcutter]

I pulled the #1 plug today and rotated the crank by hand until I felt a slight puff of air. (Not nearly as noticeable as I thought it would be, but maybe my thumb wasn't sealing it well.) I tried looking for a timing mark on the flywheel ring gear and nothing, I also looked for a timing mark on the crank pulley after I noticed it had a pointer located on the side, but no luck.

When I pulled the distributor cap the rotor button was about 8-9 o'clock, near the #3 plug wire. I loosened the 2 clamps holding the distributor in position and rotated it to align properly. The tractor would crank and run for 3-5 seconds and die. After several attemps, I finally pulled the carb and cleaned it. The main bottom jet was completely blocked and the long thin jet had a couple of partially blocked holes. I cleaned everything up and re-assembled it. When I installed it the motor was still trying to run wide open, I adjusted the governor rod the way it was shown in the video and got it down to 1000-1200 RPM but still way to high. At least I know it will run, now just need to get it adjusted properly.

I noticed that the oil pressure gauge was reading 0, so didn't want to run it long. I pulled the gauge and it is pumping a stream of oil about the size of a pencil, but no idea what the pressure is. Hopefully just a bad gauge or dirty screen on the pump.

[Jim Becker]

I beleive the 100 still had the timing mark on the flywheel. It should be stamped into the outside of the flywheel. With the cover off the hand hole on the bottom of the bell housing, you should be able to see it looking forward towards the crescent shaped cover in front of the flywheel. That cover should have a timing pointer facing towards the flywheel.

[customcutter]

Thanks Jim,

I'll check again, but looked at it good today with a strong flash light and didn't see a stamped dot. The cover is missing over the inspection hole so no pointer there.

Now that it's running, I need to verify oil pressure, then work on the carb leak and high engine RPM's.

[customcutter]

I pulled the carb again last night and found a crack in the housing where the 90* fitting screws into the side. Apparently a PO had tried tightening the fitting and cracked the housing. I couldn't find my JB Weld, but had some 5 minute Gorilla epoxy, so I mixed some up and put it on the threads and over the crack. A PO had also ground the back of the choke lever on the carb and it was loose on the rod with no attachment method. I put a little epoxy on it as well.

While I was examining the carb I noticed less than a 1/16" opening on the throttle body with it fully closed. I turned the idle screw out until it was almost completely closed.

I just put the carb back on and no gas leak at the carb, and I can now throttle down so low that the tractor will die. If I can find a way to screw the idle screw back in without pulling the carb I'll try it. Might be difficult as I had to use a pair of pliers to screw it out. The screwdriver slot is buggered up a little, enough that the screwdriver would slip. Maybe a little penetrating oil will help with the amount of pressure needed to move it.

I picked up an oil pressure gauge at O'reilly's but it's a size too small. I'm thinking probably best to drop the oil pan and inspect the oil pump and filter while doing an oil change.

[Jim Becker]

If you are going to investigate the oil pump, the bottom cover and gasket are the problem areas. The cover can warp and the gasket can blow out. A warped cover can be fixed by hand lapping it on sandpaper on a flat surface. The gasket needs to be thin so the gears don't have excessive end play. End clearance should be .0035 to .006. The pressure relief spring should have a free length of 2.398 and a test length of 1.674 at 24.2 ponds.

[customcutter]

If you are going to investigate the oil pump, the bottom cover and gasket are the problem areas. The cover can warp and the gasket can blow out. A warped cover can be fixed by hand lapping it on sandpaper on a flat surface. The gasket needs to be thin so the gears don't have excessive end play. End clearance should be .0035 to .006. The pressure relief spring should have a free length of 2.398 and a test length of 1.674 at 24.2 ponds.

Thanks Jim, that is some very useful information!

Are there any threads or information on methods or procedures for testing the length at 24.2 #'s? I'll try do some search's but don't always have the best of luck finding infomation.

Thanks again, Ken

[customcutter]

I tried doing a couple of search's here and didn't find anything. So I did a google search for Farmall oil pump repair, and first thing to come up was the same guys channel that posted how to time a 100.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg6cptSr0Ds&t=2s