Super AV Radiator Removal?

[customcutter]

When I added the anti-freeze to the Super AV a couple of days ago it started dripping fluid. I was checking it out yesterday and it is definitely leaking from the top radiator hose. I decided to try taking on that job today. I decided to cut the hose down the side, hoping that there would be enough room to wiggle the new one back in place. Nope, only about 1/2" of clearance between the radiator and the connector on the block.

A quick inspection and I saw 2 bolts on the top and 2 nuts on the bottom. I tried the bottom right first and it was tight so I sprayed them all down with penetrating oil. I removed the 2 upper bolts, then the lower left. They were a little tight but no problems, so I tried the bottom right again, it seemed to be going then SNAP.

I haven't removed the shroud bolts. Is it necessary too? Also, I don't see any other bolts or nuts holding the radiator, but it doesn't budge. I'm assuming that there are some rubber grommets on the bottom that have swollen and holding it in place. I'm a little leery of applying too much pressure after what happened with the bottom bolt. I did a YT search and haven't found any videos on a Super A radiator or restoration. I thought about using a wide pry bar between the bottom of the radiator and the frame, but like I said I'm afraid of poking a hole in the bottom after the last fiasco.

I figured I'd check here to see if there are any other bolts or nuts or if anyone had any tips.

[inairam]

I have not done a Super av but I have worked on my 130 and both 140 and removing the front clip gave access to everything and was not that hard to do.

I would spend some time inspecting the water pump and considering replacing it. In for a hose in for a pump!
All of the water pumps on my tractors had issues and I decided to replace them.

[customcutter]

I have not done a Super av but I have worked on my 130 and both 140 and removing the front clip gave access to everything and was not that hard to do.

I would spend some time inspecting the water pump and considering replacing it. In for a hose in for a pump!
All of the water pumps on my tractors had issues and I decided to replace them.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes my original intention was to try and change the upper hose without removing anything else. Unfortunately there is only about 1/2" of clearance between the radiator and the top of the piece on the block. So the radiator has to come out. From what I've read the Super A doesn't have a water pump, but "thermo-cycles" instead. When I get the radiator out, I'll see if there are any seals and check the bearings on the cooling fan. I will definitely be changing the lower hose as well while I'm in there. LOL

I think I'm going to remove the upper brace and fan cowling to see if that allows me to rock it forward and backward slightly to free it.

[Jim Becker]

I'm going from memory, not recent memory either. However, it may be possible to loosen the fan from the bracket/elbow then unbolt the elbow from the front of the head (3 bolts) and lower the elbow to remove/replace the hose.

Otherwise, you probably need to remove both hoses before the radiator will move much. New hoses have some flex that give some leeway for installing. But old ones are usually so stiff that you have to fight them. If the lower hose is still in place, you need to have the radiator totally free of other attaching points so you can tilt and twist it to pull it loose from the lower hose.

[customcutter]

I'm going from memory, not recent memory either. However, it may be possible to loosen the fan from the bracket/elbow then unbolt the elbow from the front of the head (3 bolts) and lower the elbow to remove/replace the hose.

Otherwise, you probably need to remove both hoses before the radiator will move much. New hoses have some flex that give some leeway for installing. But old ones are usually so stiff that you have to fight them. If the lower hose is still in place, you need to have the radiator totally free of other attaching points so you can tilt and twist it to pull it loose from the lower hose.

Jim,

Thanks for the insight. I hadn't thought about having to remove the lower hose. I'll try loosening the clamps and see if that helps.

[customcutter]

I loosened the lower hose clamps today and started draining the radiator. It took several hours and I noticed a film on the surface and it appeared to be oil. I thought possibly the tractor had a cracked head or blown gasket so I drained the oil and it looks OK other than being extremely black. I'm not sure what the oily film is on top of the antifreeze about 1/16" thick. It appears frothy and is definitely very slick and oily feeling. I don't know if possibly mixing red and green antifreeze caused it, I've heard of mixed antifreezes gelling up heater cores and radiators in F250's.

I removed the upper bracket and fan shroud. Then I loosened the lower hose clamps. I was able to rock the top of the radiator forwards and backwards. I tried lifting the left side of the radiator and apparently the lower bolt was welded or brazed to the bottom of the radiator, but no longer attached. I can't get it loose frame yet. I still haven't gotten the bolt that broke on the bottom right out of the frame or loose from the radiator. I finally pivoted the entire radiator on the bottom right bolt and was able to remove the lower hose. There is a piece of 1/8" thick rubber about 1.5" square under the radiator at each bolt.

I took the hoses to the local parts store and they cut 2 pieces of 2" hose the same length. I got the 2 hoses and new screw clamps for $12 and change, a pleasant surprise.

I sprayed everything down with some Oven and Grill degreaser from the Dollar Store. I'll wash everything down tomorrow and give it a good scrub before re-assembly. I also want to try and flush the radiator and block with a hose before putting it back together.

[inairam]

In terms of flushing, I have not tried this but Bob was a very active and accurate poster in the cub area. He suggested Lestoil

http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... il#p858094