First Super A

[Stanton]

Congratulations on the new-to-you Farmall SA!

After you print your owner’s manual, take time to read the maintenance and lubrication sections. It’ll give you all sorts of places that need oil or grease that you may not have thought about. Don’t be thrown by IH’s recommendation of engine oil viscosity weights. Most classic tractor owners use modern multi-grade oils instead of single weight. Many of us have found Shell Rotella 15-40 to be very dependable.

Again, congratulations! You have a very nice SA that looks ready to work or parade. Enjoy!

[CDKL]

Congratulations on the new-to-you Farmall SA!

After you print your owner’s manual, take time to read the maintenance and lubrication sections. It’ll give you all sorts of places that need oil or grease that you may not have thought about. Don’t be thrown by IH’s recommendation of engine oil viscosity weights. Most classic tractor owners use modern multi-grade oils instead of single weight. Many of us have found Shell Rotella 15-40 to be very dependable.

Again, congratulations! You have a very nice SA that looks ready to work or parade. Enjoy!

Thank you, I appreciate the advice a lot. So its ok to deviate from the standard 30w non detergent? I've read some conflicting opinions on this. But I'm all about what has been tried and trued vs someone's thought or opinion. I use the Rotella in my Duramax as do most diesel owners I believe. I'll definitely give the Rotella a shot and see how she likes it.

Thanks again,
Chris

[Stanton]

Thank you, I appreciate the advice a lot. So its ok to deviate from the standard 30w non detergent? I've read some conflicting opinions on this. But I'm all about what has been tried and trued vs someone's thought or opinion. I use the Rotella in my Duramax as do most diesel owners I believe. I'll definitely give the Rotella a shot and see how she likes it.

Thanks again,
Chris

Use the Search box in the extreme upper right of each screen (not the one that says "Google Search") and type in whatever you like. It will search just our website. Type in "engine oil" (or "paint") and there'll be a landslide of threads to peruse. Some topics get a lot more responses than others; engine oil is one. If you want to just see Rotella, then type that as your search query.

[CDKL]

So a bit of an update. After the choke issue was resolved and the fan hub oiled, cranked right up no problem and no choke. What happens next is puzzling to me. I let it sit warm for a couple of minutes and was going to move it inside for an oil change. Although it was running smooth it would seem to bog down under a load whether it was the hydraulics or putting it in gear and letting the clutch out. She finally stalled just before I got it in the garage. I noticed there was a small puddle of gas coming from the bottom of the carb. After trying to crank it several more times it almost would start but never would fire off. So my wife and I pushed the rest of the way into the garage. I went ahead and pulled the carb off and there seems to be no fuel running down the fuel line with it fully shut off at the sediment bowl which is good. I assuming there is a problem with carb but I’m no mechanic so, Any suggestions, thoughts, or advice would be appreciated.

Chris

[Jim Becker]

. . . I noticed there was a small puddle of gas coming from the bottom of the carb. After trying to crank it several more times it almost would start but never would fire off. . . .

Was this puddle of gas there before/when it quit or only after you tried to restart it? If there when it quit, you may have a float valve that is sticking open or has junk in it. A sticking carb float or one that has gas inside could do it too.

[staninlowerAL]

Visually inspect/check the position of the "butterfly" on the choke shaft when you have the engine running. In the
"run" position the round disc on the shaft should be horizontal for maximum air flow after starting.

[CDKL]

. . . I noticed there was a small puddle of gas coming from the bottom of the carb. After trying to crank it several more times it almost would start but never would fire off. . . .

Was this puddle of gas there before/when it quit or only after you tried to restart it? If there when it quit, you may have a float valve that is sticking open or has junk in it. A sticking carb float or one that has gas inside could do it too.

The puddle was noticed on the concrete after it stalled out. It also dripped a puddle after I had tried to start it back several times. When I got it in the garage I shut the fuel off at the sediment bowl. Over the next few days I could feel moisture on the bottom of the carb from the gas. No puddles just wet on the bottom of the carb. I drained the carb and disconnected the fuel line. When I did this there was no signs that fuel was coming down the line with valve shut off.

[CDKL]

I got home this afternoon and took the carb apart and cleaned it really well. I tested the float and it seems to be fine as well. Got it all back together and it wouldn't start. I went to the spark plugs and pulled the first one it was pretty darn nasty, I cleaned it up and checked the gap. I did the same on the next one, made it to number 3 and and 4 and someone had put a different size spark plug in there that I do not have a socket for. Anyway, she fired up first try, "I was excited to say the least, I went over and went to throttle it up a bit and nothing happened, the use of the hydraulics still bogs it down when the TC lever is engaged. I was looking at the back of the carb and where the throttle linkage attaches to the carb that butterfly is extremely loose. I could manually move the butterfly and it only increased the rpm one time out of about 5 times moving it. Im so confused as to what is going on with this thing. I just plowed my garden a week and a half ago and it was running a little rough because of the choke issue, once the choke was all the way in and that problem was resolved it sounded like it ran so so much better, and now I can't do thing with it.

[MedicAR]

CDKL - we're in the same boat. I have my grandfather's 1951 Super A by way of my dad. Dad can offer advice and ideas but it's still intimidating, trying to learn about all of this. I'm looking for a parts source as well. I only need a mower belt now but I'm sure I'll need more at some point!

[Ole Timey Farmin]

Things to check. As stated if float sticks it will flood the engine. Foul the plugs n run like crap. Clean n get a carb kit if it still leaks gas out from weep hole in carb. You also may need hotter sparkplugs. Changing wires, cap rotor and points would also be good on any new tractor. Also you need to find out if previous owner used detergent oil or ELSE when you put in that rottela 10w-40, you might wash out 70 years of sludge. This could clog oil pickup and or filter n cause oil pressure to drop to almost nothing (VERY BAD). But there is ways to clean out sludge n run good, new types of oil. They said use ND-30 oil only cuz back in 1930-50's they didn't have HD oil or anything as good as synthetic oils of today. There is a section on what to do with my new Farmall Cub. It's the same thing for A-M's just different types of filters n capacities. But all use same oil in trany, same setting timing, plugs etc, just gaps may differ, how much fluid is in trany, radiator, engine etc. But all same idea, just check specks for your SA. One last thing. What is your SA serial number? (Don't post last 3 #'s) as my 1950 SA is 291xxx so it was made in early July of 1950, but earlier ones say 281269 was built in January and the next 2 months were all demo SA, they were painted white n repainted red later, buwhite demo's are rare n collectors luv em. So fix it but you may want to sell it n find a sucker, er um I mean a collector that will pay top dollar n then buy another tractor with some implements for cheaper than you sold that rare white demo. First check serial but also unbolt some easy to get to parts looking for white paint as IH just sprayed over the white, so hidden areas still remained white, that's what collectors will look for. But if it's not a demo, like mine, then get her running good as they can last another 70 years with some tlc. I still want to know if any new tractor will be running in 50-90 years like the A-140 or even a Cub.