Super A Transmission, What have I gotten myself into?

[Dale Finch]

Make sure the drum is hard against the housing, with the locking bolt really tight, as well as the jam nut. You don't want that drum migrating on the differential shaft.

[Jim Becker]

Movement of the drum or the shaft it is attached to?

[Dave1952]

Jim, It was the shaft and drum moving together. Tore it apart, then reassembled. tight now. Hope to get the heavy side final drive back together today.

[Jim Becker]

The shaft should be held in position by the bearing. The drum should be held in location by the shaft.

The shaft should be held in the bearing by a snap ring on the end of the shaft. The outer race of the bearing should have a lock ring around the outside. The lock ring should be sandwiched between the housing and the cover on the outer end. If all those piece are properly in place, the shaft can't move. If one of the rings is left out, it might seem tight but have a problem later on.

[Dave1952]

Got both of the final drives back together tight and mounted back on the tractor. Oil pans are my next item.

[Dave1952]

Since my last post I have mounted the oil pans with new seals. Replaced the PTO output shaft seal and mounted the PTO assembly back on tractor. My question now is.... How the heck do I get the transmission oil level plug loose? Looks as thou the threads are sealed with paint. I don't have the correct socket attachment for the square indented head on the plug. What size is that? Can anyone help with this problem?

[Dale Finch]

For the "OUTTIES" those square plug sockets are hard to find. I ordered mine from Snap-on and they were pricey. BUT, they are worth it! I have 2 of the 3 sizes for a CUB, 3/8" and a smaller one that fits the drain plug on the Touch Control block. I THINK the Cub transmission full plug on the left side is 3/8", and the drain plug is 9/16". I don't remember the sizes for the SA. They are available online individually or as a set. This is just one example...certainly don't need all those, of course!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/SOCKET-SET-PIPE-PLUG-3-8IN-DRIVE-11PC-MALE-FEMALE/21726716?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228016957901&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=52576731071&wl4=aud-481962823846:pla-84458625911&wl5=9009666&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=21726716&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwndvlBRANEiwABrR32AUnQuRjhLad8isyTLfDyxuXH4_gOxh-7Mx5t9mb6qrFqhobKFczqhoC05cQAvD_BwE

On one of my SA finals, it had an oddball-sized "innie" plug, unlike the 1/2" one on the other final, where you could simply use a 1/2" ratchet to remove it. I ended up grinding down 4 flats on a large (5/8"?) bolt until it fit the square hole. You could always do that for the smaller INNIE ones.

[Dave1952]

Update since my last post. Got the tractor back together. Tractor fires up, now the input shaft is binding on something. Gears will not slow down to engage. (Not running) With clutch pressed down I can turn the PTO shaft but it has resistance. thinking pilot bushing or shaft needs cleaned up. Either way it needs to be split. not looking forward to this. Need to build a splitting stand for the rear. That's my starting point for this new project.