How to Make Your Own Gaskets

Any other helpful tips you may have.
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Stanton
Team Cub
Team Cub
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Zip Code: 64070
Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066
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Location: Lone Jack, MO

How to Make Your Own Gaskets

Postby Stanton » Sun Jul 03, 2022 8:52 am

Gaskets can be made in your workshop for most parts and applications on the Cub. A few benefits for this is:
  1. Cost
  2. Wait time
  3. Fit

Like most of you, waiting around for a gasket to show up (after paying for shipping), can be a waiting game at best or frustrating at worse. Thanks to those who contributed comments to the initial thread; I've included their names/handles giving them credit. A few of the items you need are:
  1. Gasket material (in this example, I'm using Fel-Pro #3157, 1/32" thick, but other thicknesses are available)
  2. Ball peen hammer
  3. Hole punch set
  4. Hardwood board or plastic cutting board (Jim Becker)
  5. X-Acto knife
  6. Good marking pen (fine line)

The hole punch set can be found at most discount big box stores or your popular China-import tool company. Some have used empty rifle or pistol shell casings for punches (Mht).

Start by getting the part that needs a gasket. In this case, I'm using the upper radiator neck because it has to open holes and one blind hole. Get a piece of gasket material larger than the piece and trace the outline and the bolt holes. In the bolt hole under the neck, it was difficult to get a full circle drawn, but enough to see where it should be. Some have used a new gasket and made a photocopy or scan, then place the print over the gasket material, cutting through both for an exact size/fit (Winfield Dave).
IMG_5148.JPG

IMG_5151.JPG


You have an outline, now find the correct size hole punch. Use your bolt to determine the exact size. In my case, it's a 3/8" diameter bolt. Punch out the two holes. I'm punching these on hardboard which covers my workbench:
IMG_5155.JPG

IMG_5156.JPG

Here a pic of similar using a plastic cutting board purchased at any store selling kitchen wares (please don't use your wife's or family's kitchen cutting board! I won't be liable for the ramifications of your actions!):
IMG_5232.JPG


Now insert both bolts through the gasket and into the cast iron holes. Use your fingers to firmly hold the bolts in place so the gasket doesn't move around during the next step.
IMG_5157.JPG

IMG_5158.JPG


Use the ball end of your hammer to begin tapping (lightly) on where you think is the the edge of the blind hole. After a few taps, you'll begin to see a slight indent, then a tear. Keep tapping all around the hole until you have completed the circle.
IMG_5159.JPG

IMG_5161.JPG


The edges on this one are a little ragged, so I cleaned the cut circle up with an X-Acto knife.
IMG_5162.JPG


Finished gasket. Took less time, money and effort than to find one online at an acceptable cost and then wait for it to arrive. Now I can move on to applying the sealant of my choice and installation.
IMG_5165.JPG

IMG_5168.JPG


Same procedure used for cutting out a rear oil seal gasket:
IMG_5234.JPG
Trace the outline.

IMG_5236.JPG
Measure the inside border from the outside outline. In this case 3/4".

IMG_5239.JPG
Make necessary "tick" marks all around the inside border.

IMG_5241.JPG
Join the "tick" marks in a continuous line to cut by.

IMG_5243.JPG
Punch out the bolt holes.

IMG_5247.JPG
Finish cutting outside and inside border lines to reveal gasket.


Hope this helps you as an alternative to manufactured gaskets.
Stanton
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