I figured that this is a very common procedure, but there are still a few folks who have not done this and have not had the opportunity to watch it at a Cubfest. So I took photos at each step. (I am NOT a pro, so if any of my procedures are wrong, feel free to let me know.
REMOVE THE MOWER DECK
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/1.jpg)
REMOVE DRAWBAR/MULE DRIVE ASSEMBLY
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/2.jpg)
INSTALL WEDGES IN FRONT AXLE
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/3.jpg)
CHOCK TRACTOR
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/4.jpg)
JACK TRACTOR
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/5.jpg)
REMOVE WHEEL/WEIGHT AND FENDER
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/6.jpg)
REMOVE BRAKE ROD CLEVIS AND COTTER PINS
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/7.jpg)
SUPPORT FINAL WITH ENGINE HOIST
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/8.jpg)
REMOVE LAST 2 BOLTS ON BOTTOM OF FINAL (after strapping under engine hoist!)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/9.jpg)
CAREFULLY SLIDE FINAL OUT OF DIFFERENTIAL
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/10.jpg)
YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE BRAKE DRUM WAS BEGINNING TO RUB ON THE DIFFERENTIAL SEAL RETAINER BOLTS
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/11.jpg)
NOTE HOW BRAKE DRUM HAD MIGRATED ALMOST 2" INBOARD (left) WITH BRAKE BAND BARELY TOUCHING
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/12.jpg)
CAUSE? SET SCREW BROKEN AND APPARENTLY LOOSE
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/13.jpg)
THE TOP 1/4" WAS THE ONLY BRAKE PAD CONTACT
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/14.jpg)
BRAKE CONDITION
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/15.jpg)
BROKEN SET SCREW AND LOCK NUT (BOTTOM) WITH "NEW" ONE (TOP)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/16.jpg)
CLEAN UP FINAL OIL PAN HOUSING
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/17.jpg)
REMOVE OLD DIFFERNTIAL SEAL (Why not? You have it this far apart and it's really some cheap/easy insurance!! I also "chased" all the bolt hole threads with a tap...makes reassembly easier AND precludes problems later on)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/18.jpg)
OLD AND NEW DIIFERENTIAL SEALS
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/19.jpg)
DRIVING IN NEW SEAL (using a socket upside down, with a larger diameter than the seal, keeps you from going beyond flush with outer edge)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/20.jpg)
REMOVE TRANSMISSION "FULL LEVEL" PLUG (might as well check fluid and top off...this is the best access you will ever have!!!)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/21.jpg)
REMOVE FILLER PLUG
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/22.jpg)
ADD OIL OF CHOICE (I used 90wt gear oil) UNTIL IT STARTS COMING OUT LOWER "FULL" PLUG HOLE
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/23.jpg)
CLEAN RUST FROM BRAKE DRUM (worn edge was a small enough area, I decided to leave it)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/24.jpg)
DRILL OUT OLD RIVETS TO REMOVE OLD LINING
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/25.jpg)
NEW AND OLD BRAKE LININGS (my tremendous thanks to Bob McCarty for making up these...I was SO glad I bought a set from him at a recent Cubfest!)
![Image](http://farmallcub.com/images/ht501/lfbrake/26.jpg)
Sorry about the length of this post, and I must now continue on a second post due to photo limits. Thanks for getting this far! Look for part 2!