Restoring grandfathers cub

[Jake1069h]

Hello there!

My name is Jake, I'm up in New England on an apple orchard. Just started working on my grandfathers 1951 Cub. The old girl was put outside while we worked on the barn for a few months and now that it's back under cover it's time for a restoration. Last time she ran it burned oil like crazy and had maybe 30% of its original power.

Will probably be scouring around the pages asking lots of questions about parts and sharing pictures of old rusty parts that I can't identify.
Will definitely share some videos or pictures when I can.

Not sure if its allowed but here's a video of my dad and I this week working on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB2dEbHmibI

Thanks for whoever made this group. Looking forward to sharing some after pics as well.


- Jake

[Slim140]

Welcome to the forum and looking forward to the restoration.

[Don McCombs]

Welcome! Not only are photos and video permitted, we encourage them.
Not sure what was going on with the torch in the early part of the video, but that looked a little scary with fuel in the area. You might find that a penetrant like Kroil, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster will work better for you than WD-40. Good Luck.

[Jake1069h]

@Don McCombs - The torch was a half hazard way of heating up a bolt that was seized on there. It worked but also very dangerous. We agreed after that to not run any flames on the cub as it's covered in oil.

Only broke one pan head screw on the front grill during the whole disassembly. Still have to do brakes and rear end but it's not nearly as bad as I though. Will switch to liquid wrench of PB for the back half.

Thanks!

[Bob McCarty]

Jake, welcome to the forum. In case you (or the machine shop) are unaware of it, there is not a replacement for the rear engine seal that is a press fit. The fix (which forum member tst does) is to slightly bore out the ID of the retainer and press fit a slightly larger seal. The machine shop may try to stake or epoxy it in the replacement seal which tends to be a temporary fix. The replacement seal does fit an R2 retainer, at a cost of about $120 for just the retainer. If you haven't found them yet, there are 3 forum sponsors at the bottom of the page that are a good source of parts (and TM Tractor has great pictures too). Nice video...

[ajhbike]

I really enjoyed your video!

[indy61]

Your tractor looks fairly original, other than the hood decal. It's too bad the engine needs rebuilt. I don't think I've seen a step like that. Your grandfather trying to blow out the fire is something.

[staninlowerAL]

Welcome to the forum. Invaluable sources of information for you are the manuals at the Quick links tab, top left corner of this page, pdf manuals and the HOW TO forum for specific information on repairs and problem solving. Here's the link: viewforum.php?f=11

[Mike in Louisiana]

Great introduction. Welcome to the forum.

[Glen]

Hi,
I watched your video, it looks like a good Cub.
I see it has a magneto, and it looks like a cutout, or Relay IH called it, on top of the generator.
The Relay isn't a voltage regulator.
It was before there were voltage regulators on Cubs, you had to choose the charge rate yourself.
The Relay wasn't used after Cub serial number 115403, which was made in mid 1950.
Also the Battery Ignition unit came out then, but the magneto was still used also.

You could check the serial number of the Cub, it is probably a 1950 or older.
The serial number is stamped in the plate near where the long steering shaft goes in the housing.
There is a list of Cub serial numbers at the top of the page at Cub Info that show the years the Cubs were made.
I sent you a PM, you get to it at the top of the page.