194 Plow Identification Help

[T-Mo]

Pictures from the seller. As I mentioned, he is a member here.

[T-Mo]

I will be picking up the above fast hitch tomorrow. Any help for installation instructions, would be much appreciated. Pictures, videos, words, etc., anything would help. Thanks.

[tmays]

I will be picking up the above fast hitch tomorrow. Any help for installation instructions, would be much appreciated. Pictures, videos, words, etc., anything would help. Thanks.

Remove at least one tire. Rather straightforward after doing that, if you have the correct hardware

[Slim140]

Since your tractor is shiny red go ahead and take the time to paint the FH. That way you won't regret not painting it in a month or two and have to remove it and reinstall it. Also use some blocks of wood to support one side and a floor jack on the other to help line it up.

[Peter Person]

...echo what Thomas suggests...but wedge the front axle 1st. Don't need your tractor tipping over.

Also, Don McCombs recommends taking the fast hitch apart and assembling it on the tractor a piece or assembly at a time.

Parts Manual TC-37F Section E Pages E06 through E10. (Access this using the Quick Links above)
The 3 bolts holding the hitch to the final drives are two different lengths. one (1) 5/8"-11 x 1 1/4" and two (2) 5/8"-11 x 1 1/2" due to the thickness of the brackets and the final drive casting. You could always use all 1 1/2" bolts and just add two additional lock washers.

You can use the TM Tractor "How to Hook Up Implements" to see how the parts attach except they show the early version with the Adjustment Lever vs. the Adjustment Crank that you have.
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim/fhitch_001.htm

Hopefully someone will get you photos of the new style FH installed on a regular Cub.

Peter

[Don McCombs]

Also, Don McCombs recommends taking the fast hitch apart and assembling it on the tractor a piece or assembly at a time.

Especially, if you are doing it by yourself. Remove everything but the bail, the two brackets and the rockshaft to make it lighter and easier to maneuver. No need to fully disassemble the removed parts.

[tst]

you only need to remove a tire if your tires are at the narrowest setting

[staninlowerAL]

Not to hijack this thread but I have installed a late model FH on a 76 regular Cub and changed the tires to 9.5 turfs. The crank style adjustment flatbar connecting from the bail to the right fender will not totally clear the inside of the tire when the tire is installed at the most narrow setting. Is this normal or is something amiss? TKS

[T-Mo]

Not to hijack this thread but I have installed a late model FH on a 76 regular Cub and changed the tires to 9.5 turfs. The crank style adjustment flatbar connecting from the bail to the right fender will not totally clear the inside of the tire when the tire is installed at the most narrow setting. Is this normal or is something amiss? TKS

From my research, if your tractor has 9.5 tires, you can’t have the tread at the narrow stance.

[staninlowerAL]

Thanks. I'm assuming that you mean with the FH installed. Other than the lack of tire clearance there does not seem to be any issues.

[T-Mo]

Yes, I meant with the FH installed.

[Glen]

Hi,
I handle the Fast Hitch in one piece, except for disconnecting the depth adjusting lever, or crank, from the bail first. Also disconnect, or leave the lift rod off, until last.
Look above at the 3rd pic that you posted, that is where I lift my hitch. It is well balanced there, with the lever or crank removed from the bail.
If you are using an engine lifter, it has to be behind the hitch, not in front. The pic has it in front.

I used a lift from the ceiling, so I need to remove the pan seat, only the seat, at the top of the seat post, by removing the 4 bolts, so the lift chain or cable will hang straight.
I don't know how it works with an engine lifter, you might not need to remove the seat.
I don't know if the DeLuxe seat is in the way, if you have that.

I use a large punch on each side, to put in two of the 5/8" hole, to align the holes to put the bolts in the final drives.
You will probably need to block up parts of the hitch, like the bail and rear of the hitch, to connect the crank, and lift rod.

I would check or change the final drive oils before putting the hitch on, the final drive oil pans cannot be removed without removing the Fast Hitch, the rear bolt on each pan will not come out without removing the hitch.
I don't have a Fast Hitch with a crank, but I think the crank bracket might cover the right side oil plug. The left side oil plug is easier to get at before putting the hitch on also.

[staninlowerAL]

Yes, I meant with the FH installed.

Thanks. That's what I suspected.

[T-Mo]

I picked up the plow Monday. The seller is a landscaper and he cleared off a property for an elderly lady and she told him to just take the plow. Makes me wonder what else she had that might be of interest?

[T-Mo]

....so is it yours?
Plow looks to be in pretty good shape. The point seems to have quite a bit of life left in it.
Hard to tell, but the colter appears to be missing the "big nut".

From TM Tractor:


Peter

Since I finally got the fast hitch painted and mounted on my Cub, it's time to start looking at the 194 plow I bought back in late February.As Peter mentioned, it's missing the "big" nut. So I will be looking for one of those. But, my question, I searched through the manual, plus looked at various pictures, but I'm not sure how the coulter gets mounted on the beam. I have to figure that one out. If anyone has a good picture of that, I appreciated it.

But, before I mounted anything, I may want to cleaned up the plow and get some paint on it and the rust removed.