Help, I have a Crack in my Cub Housing

[JohnMihevic]

Welding it is noble and all but it's not that big of a job to swap out, the cost of the rod is about the same as a good used torque tube from one of the members here, and if you're not experienced with welding cast it could turn out badly and you will still end up swapping it out.

There might be some confusion here. I am getting a good used tube with no cracks which I will use to replace my cracked one. "Big Bill" wanted my old cracked one if I was going to scrap it. My reply was that he could have it.

John M.

[JohnMihevic]

I want to thank all the guys that replied to this post to help me decide what to do with my torque tube housing. I have replaced the housing with a good used one and have done some upgrades along the way. Thanks also, to Barnyard for offering to help replace the housing at the Bash. I figure I’m about four hours away. That would be too far for me to haul my Cub. However, I would like to come to the Bash in a few weeks and help out with some repairs if I can.

I cleaned up, painted the housing and installed the later style clutch pedal that has the Throw Out (TO) bearing adjustment at the pedal. This was a very good upgrade. My old clutch release forks were worn and sloppy and there are not new replacements for them. However there are new replacement forks for the later style, which I bought along with a new clutch release pivot pin. That really improved the actuation of the TO bearing. The new forks hold the TO bearing nice and snug so it doesn’t wobble and chatter against the clutch fingers which was a problem with my old TO bearing actuation system. Also, the new forks are shorter and the TO bearing actuation rod is more parallel to the torque tube housing than before, resulting in better clutch release since the TO bearing travel is a little more than with the old forks.

I did find a difference in the thickness of the housing on the side where the clutch slides in. I could slide the clutch back and forth. The old housing was thicker and did not allow any back and forth movement. I was concerned about this, so I cut a sleeve and slid it over the brake rod that goes through the housing. See pics showing the gap and the sleeve. Is it normal to have this back and forth movement?

I also replaced the transmission front shaft bearing retainer gasket that was leaking.
Here are some more pics

[tst]

I do not see your left brake pedal on the shaft?, the brake shaft has a hole drilled in it by the left brake pedal where a cotter pin goes through to stop the side movement, probably broken off flush so you did not see the hole

[JohnMihevic]

I didn't notice the hole in the brake shaft. I'll have to check that.
Thanks,
John M.

[Glen]

Hi,
Nice you have gotten the Cub repaired.
On the Cubs I have seen, the clutch pedal bottom can be pulled out of the clutch housing about like you show in the pic. They seem to stay fully into the housing during use though. You probably don't need the spacer on the shaft, but it's ok if it doesn't interfere with anything.
It is good to keep it oiled where it goes into the housing, and oil the brake pedal pivots too.

[JohnMihevic]

I was concerned about getting the clutch pedal pivot oiled so I drilled a "oiling hole" in the torque tube housing at about a 45 degree angle through to where the clutch pedal shaft would be. I used a short 8-32 screw to plug the hole so dirt won't get in. The hole outlet location does a good job of getting oil distributed over the pivot shaft.