Help, I have a Crack in my Cub Housing

[inairam]

You may want to start applying penetrating oil on the shaft that holds the pedals getting ready for the project. The hardest part in this job may be getting that pin out. Do not hit the pin directly with a hammer. The metal is soft and the end will mushroom and then you will be in trouble.

[Urbish]

You may want to start applying penetrating oil on the shaft that holds the pedals getting ready for the project. The hardest part in this job may be getting that pin out. Do not hit the pin directly with a hammer. The metal is soft and the end will mushroom and then you will be in trouble.

Penetrating oil applied to where the shafts go through the pedals will be necessary as well.

[inairam]

One suggestion I read from a member that was a big help to me was to start on the break side and drive the shaft IN at first to get it loose and allow for more penetrating oil. Also remove the bolts on the pedals and apply oil inside the holes.

[TurboRoadster]

drill it, peen the ends, weld it up or stitch it up. motor on and be happy

[Waif]

Hi,
You didn't say what year your Cub is, it looks like it has an under axle exhaust system, they came out in late 1954.
The 2 different clutch adjustment systems are different pedals, and linkage parts only, the clutch housing is the same, I believe. Maybe Jim B. would say. . . .

My Cub is a 1948, Serial #11612. The under axle exhaust is what I added in the late '70's because I did a lot of mowing in an orchard with low hanging branches. I also like having the exhaust going out underneath behind me. For me , it's better than up front and breathing the exhaust.

I definitely have the older style clutch adjustment system as I have to adjust the clutch free travel by turning the turnbuckle through the inspection hole. I believe the later system allows for free travel from outside the tractor using a screw on the clutch pedal.

John M.

My 48 now has an external clutch pedal adjustment with a different torque tube having replaced the cracked original.
A bit easier to adjust/ reach than through the inspection / greasing hole.
Depends how much you want to stay stock / original.

With the casting not being the original I'm fine with the clutch pedal adjustment location not being original either.

[inairam]

1948 SN 32229 introduces clutch adjustment on the pedal. It is OK for a '48 to have it. My '48 is shy of that number and I converted because I have a loader and the loader makes an extremely difficult job of working in the access hole impossible.

[JohnMihevic]

Thanks for the Info. I didn't realize they changed the clutch design so early on. I am looking forward to the new setup with easy adjustment of clutch free travel. As I mentioned earlier, the old clutch release forks are not available anymore. Although, I took a lot of the slop out with shims/washers, the holes that hold the throw out bearing are worn. Even with the correct clearance to the clutch fingers, ocassionally, the throw out bearing will start a "rattling oscillation" against the fingers. I am hoping with new release forks, the bearing will be held more securely and not so prone to rotate.

John M.

[Bill Hudson]

For someone worried about how long the job was going to take, you sure got it done in a hurry. Great job!

Bill

[Barnyard]

For someone worried about how long the job was going to take, you sure got it done in a hurry. Great job!

Bill

Bill, he hasn't started yet. Mike, is talking about the clutch job he did. I believe he is awaiting his new tube to arrive.

[Bill Hudson]

Bill

[dgrapes59]

John, I am going to a guy's place tomorrow afternoon who has a good torque tube, I would be happy to pick it up if you haven't found one yet. We could try to arrange a Cub express or I can bring it to the Barnyard Bash and you can take Bill up on his offer to swap it out there. Just let me know, you won't beat the cost...

[JohnMihevic]

David,
I found one on Ebay and ordered it today. Thanks for the offer.
John

[BigBill]

Drill two holes at the end of the crack. Grind a vee in the crack. Remove all paint around it. Pre heat it and weld it with certainium arc welding rod.

Send it to me if your going to scrap it.

[JohnMihevic]

. . . . .Send it to me if your going to scrap it.

You can have it once I get it out. How do I get it to you? Shipping would be expensive.

John

[Matt Kirsch]

Welding it is noble and all but it's not that big of a job to swap out, the cost of the rod is about the same as a good used torque tube from one of the members here, and if you're not experienced with welding cast it could turn out badly and you will still end up swapping it out.