What to do with a Cub you just brought home

[bkvsr]

Enjoy them all like I do

[swampdog]

Got mine home and it runs fine just needs cosmetic things right now , it's a 52 model no welds that I can see so far, brakes work good ,hyd sysrem works good .SO I will start on the list of things to do tomorrow.

[Tyco2005]

Good checklist. I just bought another Cub and there are plenty of things to work on and it's hard to decide where to start!

[mikes5785]

is there a list somewhere of the types of fluids, oils viscosities etc. used?

Thanks

Mike

[mikes5785]

how would one install an hour meter on a Cub Low Boy???

Thanks

Mike

I think I am a little like Eugene about my skepticism regarding the care previous owner's have taken of their equipment. However I will admit to being REALLY REALLY ANAL about maintenance (old pilot). As an example when I buy a used car or truck I "zero" out all of the critical components and maintenance, inspection and service items by changing all lubricants such as engine, transmission, rear end, transfer case oils, belts, hoses, fluids such as brake, steering, coolant and lubricate, oil and grease all service items, rotate tires, align the front end, etc. Expensive yes but my equipment runs for hundreds of thousands of miles. I create an Excel maintenance sheet for the vehicle and track all of the line items of interest and the ones that have time and/or mileage frequency specifications. When the sheet opens the sheet reads the computer's system date and updates the date dependent cells and then after keying in the current vehicle mileage the mileage dependent cells update. Cell colors change to amber when an item is getting close to being due and to red when and item is due or past due. It is the only way I can keep track and "remember".

So, I am doing a similar "zeroing" out of my Cubs as I get to each (I am doing my first one of three). I believe that if I can keep my stiff joints off the floor, minimize the surprises and number of band-aids and blue language, and keep my Cubs functioning, safe, running, working and in one piece then that is "my self imposed cost of use or of my new hobby". Because hours and time are the initial unit's for the determination of when the component, maintenance, inspection and service item is due I will be installing an hour meter on all of my "new" cub acquisitions as I get to them. All Cubs will have an Excel maintenance sheet tailored to each that will help me keep track of their physical and mechanical health.

OK wake up, take a pill. I am done with my novel. Hey we are trying to work or play in the dirt or snow and be safe and have some fun while at it-right?

[Mncubfan]

I just brought home (actually ended up towing a few miles) my grandfathers cub that has been sitting in a garage for the last 16 years. I thought I cleaned the tank out well enough when I put fresh gas in and crancked it by hand two or three times and it came to life! Short lived ... Any way I am a bit confused as to what it really is due to there are no decals left.
The serial plate states the model as fcub number 51801 I would really like to know for sure if it is a farmall cub 1948 year.
There are some issues I need to deal with the rear wheel seals are leaking....you bring home a new pet and they aren't hous trained..go figure. I really want to spend the winter going front to back top to bottom but I need to know what I'm talking about to order parts. Can someone give me some direction please as to what I have?

[Bob McCarty]

In the tool bar above you can find owner's, service, parts, and implement manuals. If it's inconvenient to download them, you can get hard copies from several sources. I'd suggest reading through the sections in the service manual (Blue Ribbon GSS-1411) regarding the specific problems you have. Then you can decide what needs to be done, what parts need to be replaced, etc. You should also first get the Cub running so you can evaluate the whole tractor. Make sure the oil gauge shows pressure when you get it running, it may need to be primed after sitting that long. It may also be better to start a new thread with questions as more Forum members will see it then. And welcome to the Forum.

Bob

[infinitereality]

Thanks for this thread, exactly what I needed to get started as a baseline!

[FarmallCubGal]

Thank you for the list! This is perfect, and reckon I can handle all but sorting out the rims, which are fine, thankfully. Much appreciated !

[Mrs.Farmallcub]

This list is great. I did some of the steps listed above, but I am finding there are more to go. This is my first cub and I am learning as I go. It is great to think that I am driving and working with a piece of machinery that is one year older than I am ( we are both antiques ...., it was built in 1952).
Thanks for the checklist.
Ursula

[Kenk]

Great thread. Thanks for keeping it up for all these years

[Cloudy_Cowboy]

Speaking of swappin gout fluids. What fluids do you recommend me using. I just got my tractor last month and I want to run all new fluids in her. Engine, Tranny Oil, Hydraulic and Gear oil. What brands/items seem to work the best?

[DRaymond]

The first thing I did was to build a library and study every service and technical manual I could find pertinent to my Cub. From them I created two 3" binders of topic labeled tips and tricks from this forum and two 1" binders of other detail specifications and table extracts applicable to each phase of disassembly and reassembly of my refurbishment project. Second I wanted to verify the year of my Cub. The seller and the ID plate SN indicated that is was a 1948. However I quickly came to the conclusion most Cubs are reflective of the Johnny Cash song where he sang about a working man who built himself a "new Cadillac automobile". The man worked in an auto assembly plant and took parts home in his lunch pail for a number of years. After putting his "new car" together his automobile had one front fender had two headlights the other had one and so on and was a 1951, 52,53 etc car. A lot of Cubs are like this due to repairs made over the years with new and salvaged parts. Bottom line we have to be careful just what exactly we need for a repair when asked what year etc our cub is or the component the part is for.
To illustrate here are some dates that I have determined when I took my Cub apart:
1. Serial Number: 13747 (1948)
2. Engine: C60, Serial Number HA12884
3. Engine Crankcase (Block): 9 17 Q (Sept 17 1947), 251341R1, FCNPM Serial No. H A 12884 (my engine did not have high altitude pistons. They were flat top and .030 over, the rod & mains were .010 over - bottom line the engine had been rebuilt in a configuration different from when produced [normal and not a big deal] but was was not like the original specs). Critical knowledge when overhauling the engine.
4. Crankcase front cover 12 2 Q (Dec 2 1947) 351674R1
5. Cylinder Head: 5 10 W (May 10, 1951 or 1973?) 251228R1 2F L
6. Clutch Housing: 1 13 R (Jan 13, 1948) 351686R1
7. Transmission Case: 11 18 Q (Nov 18, 1947), 351530R1
8. Steering Gear Housing: 11 3 Q (Nov 3, 1947) 350886R2
9. Steering Gear Housing Base: 350889R11
10. Rear Axle Housing LH: 12 28 Q (Dec 28, 1947) 350806R2
11. Rear Axle Housing RH: 12 29 Q (Dec 29, 1947) 350806R2
12. Differential Shaft Housing: 8 7 Q (Aug 8, 1947) 350798R1
13. Touch Control Block: 11 22 R (Nov 22, 1948), 351981R1, T2 (Old style block)
So I have a 1947? 1948?, 1951? 1973? See it just depends. Also you will find conflicting information. As an example I have seen in the manuals Governor end play tolerances, depending on the source, a range of 0.004"-0.013" and another (GSS-1411) .020"-025".

Bottom line is that this super forum and the great contributors with years of hands on experience and PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE can keep newbees like me from going totally insane trying to sort things out.

[AL Farmall Boy]

Keep in mind sometimes the castings would sit and it is possible the 1947 castings are original. Depending on what month your serial number fell during production. Sounds like a late 1948 model maybe? The head could have been the only part changed?

[lliberto]

When I bring a running Cub home for the first time, I run through this checklist:


Empty/refill Breather Cup
Grease all zerks
Drain Oil/replace with fresh oil
Drain Radiator/flush with water
Drain radiator/add 50/50 radiator fluid (pre-mixed)
Drain Tranny/ re-fill with kerosene
Drive cub around in low gear
Flush kerosene/replace with tranny fluid
Drain Stearing Box/re-fill with kerosene
Replace oil in steering box
Remove front wheels/fix dents in rims
Repack front wheel bearings
Replace spark plugs
Remove and fully charge battery
Clean posts/grounds
Drain fuel in tank (save)
Scrub fuel tank
Clean fuel bowl/replace screen & gasket

estimated cost: under $50

What exactly should I be doing to

Scrub fuel tank

? Is there a cleaning solution or something? I've heard about this sea foam stuff, should I be using that?


Thanks