Trailer hitch for a drawbar

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Wk, I prefer the extended tongue for the ball such as I made or TM tractor sells because it makes hitching to non stand type units easier. Since I pull a small trailer without a stand, and also occasionally move my big trailer with it, I also put a couper on my disk so there is no need to remove the ball. On such items as the disk and small trailer there is no stand, so I can back up with the ball even with the hitch and just have to push the tongue sideways to hitch, not also forward, which is dificult with a disk.

[WKPoor]

I realize these pics are of the wrong tractor but the rear hitch I use on the Cub also and (If I ever get it togeher) the Cub snow plow has 2" receiver behind the blade so in the summer months I will use it for wagon and trailer moving with the blade off. The front hitch is by far the most handy. You could thread a needle with a hay wagon on the front. On the rear- give it up.

[Dan Robertson]

If you will click the link http://www.acmehitch.com/trailerballs.htm you will find that Acme hitch is making available the 1 7/8" ball with a 5/8" bolt. I thought they were no longer available also until I run across and bought one earlier this month at the local "Rural King farm store". Price was $7.99. I think the ATV, motorcycle, and lawn tractor market has probably justified these being put back on the market again. They have a 1,000lb. rating.

[beaconlight]

TSC has small diamater balls for 4 wheelers. I hate those 4 wheelers but the small diamater mounting bolt is great. Hate to drill a draw bar. I made the mounting out of an I beam before I saw the one at TSC.
I use the mounting for my Swisher tag along mower. It lets me make tighter turns with out binding.

Bill

[Patbretagne]

I know this is silly, but the easiest solution is to just up drill the drawbar to 3/4 and be done with it. Saves on all the rigamaroe.

Now if you got a bolt something on the bar I would opt for a 2" receiver. That gives you much more options and flexability. I have a receiver on the front and back of the H. That covers me for wagons, trailers, and various rigs for pulling things. And, you can quick change everything in a second without tools.

Bill Now I'm going to ask the question of the month, What's a "Receiver" I seem to remember that TVs were calles Televison Receivers in their infancy, but I am sure it's not that,
Best Wishes,
Pat

[Eugene]

Pat:

If you go back up to WKPoor's photos, the top photo at the very rear of the 3-point hitch is a receiver. It's the square tubing (socket) with a 5/8 inch hole towards the rear.

Another square chunk of steel fits into this square socket. Attached to this square chunk of steel is up to 4 different size balls. To change to the required size of ball you simply remove a pin from the 5/8" hole, pull out the piece with the balls, turn the desired ball up and reinstall.

Eugene

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

We used to have a plate like the one TM sells for cub drawbars bolted to the steering bolster of our H, really made backing haywagons easy.

[WKPoor]

John, after reading your last post I'm laughing so hard I can't contain myself. The reason I have the rig on the front you see is because I found out last winter just how fragile that lower bolster casting is. I too had a plate on the front until one fateful day. We rapped a rope around the ball on the plate and I peceeded to back up. I snapped that bolster ear so easily the tractor couldn't even feel it come loose. And it was a dead straight pull. It wasn't all that handy anyway as it was to high to use for trailers. So back to the drawing board. This time I've got a frame bolted to the upper bolster with 4ea. 3/4" bolts. Now I'm not afraid of large amounts of tonge weight. If anything happens now it will be the whole front of the tractor that will have to come loose. Actually if you look close there is a receiver there to, that was the same one that was bolted to the ears. I reused it on the new plate.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

The broken shaft makes a good anvil for cracking walnuts. Wanna know why we had one? Early model Hs had a probblem with the front shaft breaking. Later ones had a larger shaft, but to chnage to the larger shaft you also had to change the bolster.

[Patbretagne]

Thanks, now I know, and what a good idea, especially of there are different ball sizes to chose from, also one doesn"t need a ball attached all the time,
Pat

[Dale51]

One more place to find 1 7/8" balls with 5/8" shanks are old junk yards
The ones you see with cars & trucks from back in the 60s & 70s.
I have even found 2" balls with 5/8" shanks.
Some were carriage bolts most were not.
Paid 2.00 for the last 2" with 5/8" & they took it off a 1960 ford pick up
or what was left of it.


Just another idea were to find things.

[Buzzard Wing]

Geeze Dale, why didn't I think of that! I gotta go to the local junk yard anyway and see if he will take my 1970's model El Dorado truck camper. I do need to look at the water tank first.... could be a perfect electrolisys tank.

Anybody need an LP heater or 3 burner range??

And Pat, the other nice thing about a receiver is that all you need is the pin and you have an easy way to attach a strap or a line with an eye for towing etc. The reciever on my truck had the ball mount so stuck that I was pulling stumps with the pin out. I have a nice chain track on the the tailgate to prove that old rust is stronger than new 'tree saver' sling. Or is the the stump that was stonger than all of them??

['Country' Elliott]

The problem with drillin' out the Cub draw bar hole is simply that the dern things are made so strong...you'll probably burn out your drill before ya git the hole size increased! (that is unless you got a drill that's about the size of a JACK HAMMER!!!! )

[Mac McVey]

Due to the lack of the proper drill bit, I enlarged mine with a file. Thought I'd never get finished.

[THOM]

This all seams complicated and like alot of work, Iagree with Mr. Becker, I would spend the couple bucks for a bracket from TM