introduction of alton001

[alton001]

Here's a link to a discussion in which Bill posted a wiring diagram for a 6V positive ground system. http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71561
Is that what you need? There's loads of info in the links above and in the "How To" section should you want to find something specific.

I think the diagram is what I need. Where is the magneto in the diagram?

[Don McCombs]

Here's a link to a discussion in which Bill posted a wiring diagram for a 6V positive ground system. http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71561
Is that what you need? There's loads of info in the links above and in the "How To" section should you want to find something specific.

Thanks for the link. Please tell me how to get to the "How To" section?

viewforum.php?f=11

[alton001]

You should be able to sort the wires out by length. Are you trying to identify the wires in the main harness or the individual wires not in the harness? The 1949 version of the main harness only has 4 wires. Does your tractor still have a magneto and generator or have there been some conversions?

If you post a picture of what you have, we may be able to sort it out.

I do not know if this will transmit, but this is what I got from Porch Electrical. The colors do not match what I have on my cub. If you know where they go it will be a big help.

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual showing the original wiring. It tells where each wire goes, even though the colors may not be the same.
I don't have a harness that style on my Cub, but it looks like the long dark wires at the right side would be for the front lights, if so, that is the front of the harness.
Sometimes they have to be figured out by reading where each wire goes, one at a time, as written in the diagram.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-34.jpg

[Jim Becker]

As Glen said, the black one has 3 ends, runs from the light switch to the head lights. The right side of the picture is the front.
The yellow one comes out of the middle of the harness, so must run from the ammeter to the starter switch.
Assuming the red and white are the same gauge, I'd pick them based on length. I think you need a longer field wire at the rear and the other longer at the front. So I'd say red is field to light switch and white is relay to ammeter. Swap them if I got the lengths wrong or the red is a heavier wire than the white.

[alton001]

Thanks fellows. Just did not want to start taking wires loose until I had an idea where they went.

[alton001]

I have another question (as you know I will probably have another one or more). How do I get the ignition switch knob off? Does it screw off or is there a set screw that I cannot see?

[Jim Becker]

It screws off (assuming original style 1949). The stem has a cross hole (probably full of dirt/grease) that you can stick a punch through to hold it. The knob has a hex on the bottom side for a wrench. There should also be a small lock washer that is easy to loose.

[alton001]

It screws off (assuming original style 1949). The stem has a cross hole (probably full of dirt/grease) that you can stick a punch through to hold it. The knob has a hex on the bottom side for a wrench. There should also be a small lock washer that is easy to loose.

Here are a couple of photos. I do not seem to grasp what I am supposed to do. I cannot find the cross hole. Is it on the shaft?

[Jim Becker]

On the shaft.

[Bob McCarty]

You have to unscrew the "flat knob" from the stem. The hole Jim refers to is just behind the knob and allows you to unscrew the knob without the stem turning. Once the knob is removed, you'll see the small (about 1/4") lock washer. Then place a socket or wrench on the hex that is in front of the panel. Once that is unscrewed, the main body of the switch is removed from the back side of the dash panel.

Bob

Edit: the next to the bottom picture from TM shows the hole clearly: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/435fp.htm

[Glen]

Hi,
Try pulling the switch knob out, to the on position, then you can see the hole in the shaft. Then put in the punch, like Jim said. The knob has a place on the back of it to put a small wrench on, then the knob screws off.

[alton001]

OK I got the switch off and decided to leave the wire alone since it is in good condition. I had thought that I would change all the wires out, but as I trace them down I found that only the ones in the harness that were really in need of replacing were the one from the ammeter to the generator relay and the one from the ammeter to the starter. They were loosing the insulation as well as 2 short wires at the generator that connect the relay to the generator. The wire coming from the light switch to the generator is in good shape and I think it was attached to the relay pole closest to the rear of the generator. Is that correct, because the the only diagram that I found in the help threads that closely resemble my setup show the wire from the light switch attaching directly to the generator?

[alton001]

As Glen said, the black one has 3 ends, runs from the light switch to the head lights. The right side of the picture is the front.
The yellow one comes out of the middle of the harness, so must run from the ammeter to the starter switch.
Assuming the red and white are the same gauge, I'd pick them based on length. I think you need a longer field wire at the rear and the other longer at the front. So I'd say red is field to light switch and white is relay to ammeter. Swap them if I got the lengths wrong or the red is a heavier wire than the white.

I know you are about to think I am really stupid, but would the field wire connect directly to the generator or does it connect to the cutout terminal closest to the back of the generator? Here is a photo of the cutout with the cover removed (I had to take the cutout off to extract a broken terminal screw). The red wire is the new harness field wire and the green one is the one that was connecter when I started.

Not sure if photo is loaded.

[alton001]

Here is the cutout. First try was too big.