introduction of alton001

[alton001]

I did everything that was suggested, including priming the oil pump. While not a difficult task when you know where to look. My oil can spout was just a tad short, so I used a drinking straw with a flexible according joint as an extension that worked like a charm. After sitting overnight after I first tried the starter the Cub engine turned smoothly.

[Stanton]

I did everything that was suggested, including priming the oil pump. While not a difficult task when you know where to look. My oil can spout was just a tad short, so I used a drinking straw with a flexible according joint as an extension that worked like a charm. After sitting overnight after I first tried the starter the Cub engine turned smoothly.

Yaaa!! That's great!! Turning over is not starting/running (at least you didn't say it started/ran), but at least you know the engine is not sticking/stuck. Now, you can isolate issues as you go forward.

Let us know what it's doing (or not doing) and ask any questions you may have.

[staninlowerAL]

Now that it's turning with the starter and based on your posts about not running for a long time, the first thing I would check is determine that the valves are moving when the engine turns. If they are all moving, then do a compression check to see if they are sealing. Without that happening you are not going to get very far toward making it run. Stan

[alton001]

OK here is my thinking to this point. After I lubricated the upper cylinders I wanted to be sure the engine would turn over. As of yet I have not put gas in the tank and did not plan to until I was sure that it would turn over. I need to fill the radiator, secure the hood and add gas. Without pulling the head, how can I check if the valves are opening and closing? What else do you guys suggest before I actually try to fire her off?

[Jim Becker]

Do a compression test on each cylinder. If there is compression, the valves are moving. If a cylinder shows no compression, then check for stuck valves, free them up and recheck compression.

[bythepond88]

You can check the movement of the valves by pulling the valve cover on the left side of the block. It takes some finagling, but you can get it out without removing the manifold or the hydraulic lines. Jim is right that if you have compression the valves are moving, but I would take the valve cover off anyway and check the cam to valve stem clearance and adjust if necessary. Somewhere there are "simplified adjustment" instructions that tell you how to line up the engine so you can adjust 4 valves at once, then rotate the engine to another point and adjust the other four. Hopefully someone will be able to post a link to those instructions.

[Dale Finch]

Here you go on the Simplified Valve Adjustment procedure...just follow the one for 4 cylinder engines:
The Manual from RUDI'S MANUALS above:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1356%20Engine%20Tune-up%20Specifications/index.html
The Page:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1356%20Engine%20Tune-up%20Specifications/Page%2005.jpg

[staninlowerAL]

OK here is my thinking to this point. After I lubricated the upper cylinders I wanted to be sure the engine would turn over. As of yet I have not put gas in the tank and did not plan to until I was sure that it would turn over. I need to fill the radiator, secure the hood and add gas. Without pulling the head, how can I check if the valves are opening and closing? What else do you guys suggest before I actually try to fire her off?

viewtopic.php?f=139&t=24079#p181952
Follow this thread from the HOW TO FORUM and make a tempory fuel tank from something like an old lawn mower tank. Just use you imagination a little and you will never regret having the convenience of working on the engine with the hood and fuel tank removed. Stan

[alton001]

I guess you can say I lucked out on the "Pony Tank" since on a shelf above my cub was a tank with the correct configuration to work. All I need to do is replace the cutoff valve and it will be ready to use.

One other thing is concerning me and I think I know part of the answer, but the radiator has been drained all this time and I think I need to replace the hoses and belts. Is m I correct in that this cup does not have a water pump? So, what about getting water into the engine cooling channels?

[staninlowerAL]

One other thing is concerning me and I think I know part of the answer, but the radiator has been drained all this time and I think I need to replace the hoses and belts. Is m I correct in that this cup does not have a water pump? So, what about getting water into the engine cooling channels?

Replacing belts and hoses is your choice, if it were mine, I would fill it with water and check for leaks first unless they are in really poor condition. NO WATER PUMP, TERMO-SIPHON cooling system, if you have a tight system, gravity will fill all the parts of the engine, level should be about 1 inch above the radiator core to allow for expansion. Good Luck.

[alton001]

I thought all was going well, but I am having trouble finding a gas line barb to fit the carb. The closest one I can find is a 1/4" and it is just slightly too large.Any suggestions?

[Jim Becker]

If you make your gas line out of 5/16 brake lines, the fitting on the line is correct. You just need to cut off the flare and use a compression ferrule. The ferrules are easily found. Here is a how-to on fuel lines that mentions these fittings.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=139&t=29825

[Bob McCarty]

Here's a link to TM that shows the correct fitting. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/512fp.htm It is 1/2-20 thread. DO NOT use the 1/4" barb fitting as it is a pipe thread and you'll strip out the inlet threads. As Jim mentioned, the 5/16" brake line has the right fitting and just needs the ferrule.

Bob

[staninlowerAL]

Here's some alternate ways of doing this if you have bad threads and can't helicoil it:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=89519&start=30#p711406

[alton001]

Well I got my "Pony tank" connected and for the life of me I cannot figure where I should secure the tank. I really do not want to loosen any bolts I do not need to!

While I was hunting for a spot to secure the tank, I noticed that most of the wiring insulation is cracked and needs to be replaced. Is there a source for a wiring harness or should I just purchase a supply of wire and begin running individual wires?

I also need to replace both fan belts, so what do i need to loosen to get them over the fan?