1948 Farmall Cub - stored and not running

[Jimmymike]

I’m a green horn newbie to the Cub forum. I just purchased a 1948 Farmall Cub from a friend of mine and need advice from the experts. This tractor was completely restored to original about 18 years ago but has spent the last 8 years stored in the corner of a garage. After restoration the tractor was only used as a trailer queen, driven only at tractor shows and parades. When the tractor was stored the last owner said it was running but not as smooth as it should. He also tried to start it a couple of years ago but the carburetor would flood out and pour gas and it has been sitting since then. The engine turns freely, the oil is clear, the radiator is still full with clean coolant, the gas tank is clean but has gas residue (varnish), and the fuel bowl is full of the same stuff. If you had this tractor and wanted to get it back to running condition where would your start? I’m totally new to Farmall Cubs’ and would like to hear from the experts before I start tinkering .

[Bigdog]

Welcome to the forum! Since you have noted varnish in the tank and carb I would start by cleaning and flushing the tank, then clean the varnish from the carb. The flooding of gas is likely due to a stuck float or float valve or it could be the normal drip you get from non-start conditions.
You will want to also clean the ignition points. Since the tractor has set for so long it is likely that they are glazed over. That and a freshly charged battery should get you going.
If you have additional questions just ask away.

[farmallcub49]

Make sure you have oil pressure, if not you'll have to prime the oil pump. Just search this forum for the how to on priming the oil pump.

[Alan Gee]

The Carburetor,,
If the sediment bowl is gunked up you can bet the carb is also. Mine was the same way. I really hesitated to yank the carb and over haul it because I have had other carbs apart and there were a million little fidely parts and springs and mystery items in them. The carb on your Farmall has almost nothing in it. No mystery parts no springs. There are just one or two little brass jets or plugs that come out with a small screw driver , clean them and put them back.
It is as basic as it can get. With only normal hand tools and a little time you can get it off, apart , cleaned and back togther in a half hour. Dont scrimp buy a gasket kit first. More than likly there is a speck of gunk in the float valve . I think the hardest part for me was re-attaching the choke rod and the miserable little cotter pin with my Banana fingers. Good luck

[Don McCombs]

I think the hardest part for me was re-attaching the choke rod and the miserable little cotter pin with my Banana fingers.

I have found that manipulating the cotter pin with a pair of needle nosed pliers is a good substitute for fingers that no longer do what they used to. Using a small hairpin style cotter is also helpful.

[ScottyD'sdad]

When splitting the carb, be careful of the idle tube. It's a thin metal tube, protruding down, from the upper section, into the lower. Separate by lifting the upper section up, not by twisting, to preserve this fragile part.
Ed

[ricky racer]

Prime the oil pump before attempting to start the Cub!!!

[Scrivet]

I think the hardest part for me was re-attaching the choke rod and the miserable little cotter pin with my Banana fingers.

I have found that manipulating the cotter pin with a pair of needle nosed pliers is a good substitute for fingers that no longer do what they used to. Using a small hairpin style cotter is also helpful.

It also depends at what step in the re-installing process you try to connect it. I learned here on the forum; do it first with the carb upside down so you can see what you're doing. Then swivel the carb right side up on the choke rod and bolt loosely into place. Connect fuel line. Tighten manifold bolts. Connect/adjust throttle rod.

[waterboychuck]

The guys on this site have given you lots of information. My only comment is to please use the tractor. Yes it will get dirty but so what. Machines like to run so run them.

Good luck.

[Jimmymike]

Thanks guys for all the good advice. I would have never thought of priming the oil pump or taking extra precaution with carb idle tube and choke rod. Stuff like this is valuable to a newbie. If anyone can chime in with any other advice I'm all ears.

[Eugene]

If anyone can chime in with any other advice I'm all ears.

Compression checked?

[staninlowerAL]

Since it has not run in a long time, remove and check the spark plugs and put a small amount of cylinder lube in each hole. This can't hurt at all and might help free any sticking rings and valves. Stan

[cecildew]

Thanks.

[Jimmymike]

I finally got around to working on the '48 Cub. Cleaned all fuel lines, strainer and tank. Disassembled cleaned all carburetor internals, reset carb float, and installed new float valve and gaskets. Installed new points, plugs, rotor, condenser, distributor cap, and plug wires. Cleaned all electrical connections and installed a brand new fully charged Exide 6Volt battery with new "twice the original size" ground cable. Moved ground attachment from battery box to transmission housing to get a better positive ground. Changed the oil/filter and primed the oil pump. Poured in a gallon of fresh premium no-alcohol gas. Marked the mag setting on the housing and checked the timing using Farmall instructions for the J4 magneto and found it was still in time.

Results: Tractor turns over great and has a bright blue/white spark at distributor and each spark plug. Tractor will not fire. It wants to burp occasionally but that's all I can get out of it. The carb leaks gas after each failed start so at least gas is getting to it. Checked the plugs and they were moist (but it might be from the squirt of Mystery Oil I put in each cylinder when changing the plugs.). After trying to get it to start I gave the carb a shot of starting fluid and nothing new happened, no burp, no nothing. I did find the right side carb/manifold stud was partially stripped out when trying to reinstall the carb. Cleaned the threads and was able to connect to a few undamaged ones when securing. Seems to be tight against the intake gasket now. The previous owner told me he had the same problem trying to get it to start after sitting and gave up years ago when he parked the tractor in his garage. I'm not 100% sure gas is getting into the cylinders? I haven't checked the compression yet because I don't have a fitting for my compression gauge that will fit the spark plug hole threads. But, with each plug removed it seems to have decent compression while holding your thumb in the spark plug hole while cranking. I will have to buy one of the "universal press fit" compression gauges, when I go into town, to check the compression.

Connected my timing light power leads to a 12-Volt battery charger to get power to the light and checked the timing while turning over the engine with the starter. The #1 is firing about 3/4" past TDC on the crank pulley. Is this correct? Should it be firing at TDC when cranking? Just for an experment I moved the timing so #1 would fire at TDC but without any change, still no indication of firing. Returned the mag back to it's original setting. Could the jet in the carb be completly plugged? When cleaning with carb cleaner I blew out each hole with compressed air. Seemed all passages were free. I gave up for the day and decided to write you guys for expert help since this '48 Cub is all new for me.

[Mike in Louisiana]

Are all the valves free. Look through the plug holes or better yet pull the side cover, it will come off with manifold on.
The rings may also be stuck. You really need to do a good compression check dry and then wet.