Pulling the pulley

[kylev]

Arg!!

I am having trouble pulling the pulley even with the puller I was sent by John Cub Owner. So my question is can I take the "pointer" next to the pulley off. It is getting in the way and causing my puller to cock to the side and I cant pull straight with it.

[kylev]

Here's one I made using a $10.00 Harbor Freight bearing seperator. My jack would pump all the way if I positioned the handle assembly down towards the floor.

[img][img]http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL758/2886648/5823280/74745022.jpg[/img][/img]

I went and bought one of these from harbor freight also. How did you put it on the pulley without hitting the pointer thingy on the side of the pulley?

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Are you using the slotted plate behind the pulley? it will stradle the pointer. you shouldn't need a seperate puller wiht it.

[kylev]

Yes I am I tried several times and every time I do it wants to cock to the left side. I tried putting the slot like you are saying and it doesnt want to work. My jack is working fine now that I filled it with oil but it cocks so bad that it bends the end of the grade 5 bolt.

[Chris Todd]

If pointer is in your way you can remove it. It is just a press fit. Think you can drive it out from the rear? Shouldn't be to tough.

[Jack fowler]

That puller should work. Make sure the center bolt head is not covering and pushing against the pulley opening.

As a suggestion with pressure on the pulley try tapping the pulley “shank” were it covers the engine crank with a hammer and a brass glide pin. (Use the hammer to hit the pin.) Sometimes vibration will help.

Another choice is to try heat to expand the pulley shank, over the engine crank. The crankshaft is pretty far back in the pulley so you have to be careful not to start the front crankshaft seal on fire.

Be very careful, wear eye and body protection.

Jack Fowler

[Brent]

Kylev,

You have to remove the pointer. Use a pair of Vicegrips and move back and forth with outward pressure. Maybe you're trying too hard. I jacked mine as tight as I could without bending anything, went in and had lunch. While I was eating I heard a loud pop, went out and the pulley had moved. It still took some jacking to get it off. I forgot to mention if you use a bearing seperator like in my picture put the backside against the backside of the pulley. It fits better that way. Does the end, on the screw end of your jack swivel? If so that might be your problem.

[George Willer]

If pointer is in your way you can remove it. It is just a press fit. Think you can drive it out from the rear? Shouldn't be to tough.

That will be the best way to remove the pointer, but first the pulley must come off!

[Mac from NS]

Thankyou John , I made a puller yesterday and 10 min. it was off.It did take a hole lot longer to get the seal out.

[Bill E Bob]

Ooohh, sweet relief! The feeling's almost as good as bedroom sports.
After a month of hit and miss fabrication of a puller, today was THE day.
Several pumps of the jack and nothing, one or two more, and nothing.
Then the memory kicked in (I think from this thread) about a drift and a
hammer. Peck, peck, peck---POP and we were on the way. Think I'll
clean it up, paint it, mount it on a plaque and hang it on the wall!!
Oh, and the key was no problem either. After finding the cracked engine
casting I figured somebody owed me one. Consider it paid in full!
Before the celebrating gets out of hand, I want to thank all of you on this
great forum for the pictures, information and ideas. With a special thanks
to John *.?-!.* Cub Owner.

Bill E Bob

[kylev]

Now it is time to put the pulley back on. I have my engine all painted and the pulley painted. Would it be a good idea to press the pulley back on instead of using a threaded rod and plate with a hole in it to pull it back on? I am scared that when I put my freshly painted pulley in the oven at 250 degrees the paint will get messed up. My dad has a press that I could press the pulley back on but if I do that should I also heat it to press it back on?

[Little Indy]

This thread brings an idea to mind. A site (person) who would have all these special tools. That way when one of us needs a special tool a member of this forum could eMail the person. Send a cheque for the postage plus $5.00 (or whatever would be fair). And another cheque to cover replacment of tool if not sent back in agreed-upon time. That cheque voided if tool is sent back. Just an idea. Once or twice in the life of a Cub you need to pull this particular pulley.

[Bigdog]

Kyle - you will definitely need heat to get the pulley fully seated. If you heat the pulley in boiling water your paint should be OK. A little lube on the shaft before you pull it on will also help.

[Mac from NS]

kylev I had a lot of problems putting mine back on,I tryed the threaded rod but that twested off, i was lucky it broke in a place that i could get it out. Then a frend of mine said maybe a piece of pipe on the front of the pully, so we found just the right size pipe and heated the pully up again on a hotplate
next to the tractor so I wouldn't lose any heat then I hit the end of the pipe with a BIG hammer and it went on so easy that i didn't beleave it at first.That is it you'll have to repaint your pully but its in a good place to do it.

[jim turner]

I would use caution beating the pulley back on as it could damage the thrust bearing on your crankshaft