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A few questions for the bored :)

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KYMike
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A few questions for the bored :)

Postby KYMike » Thu Oct 21, 2004 10:06 pm

1. How do I fix a PTO lever that keeps popping out of gear (spring doesn't hold it for long)?

2. What type/brand crankcase oil is most recommended?

3. What type/brand antifreeze is most recommended?

4. Do you notice any difference when using premium gas verses the regular stuff?

5. Am I a nuisance yet?

Thanks-
'53 Cub - You can make a small fortune in farming, provided you start with a large one.

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Jim Hudson
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Postby Jim Hudson » Thu Oct 21, 2004 11:54 pm

Look at Question 4 here
http://www.atis.net/CubFAQ/cub_faq_2.html#q4
Oil? What I use
Antifreeze? The one on sale
No use cheapest rot gut
Number 5 NO way!!!!
Young man for work, old man for advice

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Fri Oct 22, 2004 7:07 am

I think Jim covered that very well!
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Oct 22, 2004 7:50 am

1 - check Rudi's repair tips, I believe there is a write up covering pto there

2- If you know what was in it origianlly stay with it. If it has had non detergent, changing to a detergent can loosen up the sludge and dirt and create probelms. Regarding brand, mosy majr names are good.

3 - Just stay away form the long life ones.

4 - Personally I see no difference in performance.

5-5 NOPE, we were all new to cubs at one time. Big difference is many of us didn't have internet when we started cubbing.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

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Bermuda Ken
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Postby Bermuda Ken » Fri Oct 22, 2004 8:07 am

You missed a bunch of questions. Here they are:

6....can I put a 3 point on a cub?

7....Can I put power steering, power brakes and ROPS on a cub?

8...what kind of muffler fluid should I use?

9.....is NOS tire air better than new compressed air in tires?

10....Why can't I find this in the NAQ (Never Asked Question) section? :lol:
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artc
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1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
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Postby artc » Fri Oct 22, 2004 8:18 am

NOS tire air :!: now there's one for the correct police :lol:
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Fri Oct 22, 2004 8:22 am

I have "Armstrong" power steering on all my cubs! :D :D :D
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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http://www.cubtug.com

Jim Becker
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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Oct 22, 2004 8:40 am

6) Sure, but you will have to also build Cub-specific 3 point equipment

7) Yes but when the power steering binds or a brake locks up it will roll over and crush you.

8) Generic works fine. Check in the auto department at Safeway.

9) Currently available compressed air is better than what was available when the Cubs were built. Use ONLY low ash air.

10) RTFM.

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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Fri Oct 22, 2004 8:53 am

Jim,
Re: #9 I tend to believe that air quality may have been better (at least in the rural areas) back when cubs were in production. What is really important is that you use country air rather than city air.
Cost wise, air has remained fairly constant, considering inflation.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

Image

http://www.cubtug.com

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Fri Oct 22, 2004 11:54 am

Rural air better then???? Not if you were near adecent size hog operation or a sulphite paper mill. Lordy, Lordy!!!!!!!!!!
Bill
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mopar1949
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Postby mopar1949 » Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:28 pm

4. Do you notice any difference when using premium gas verses the regular stuff?


It is a common misconception that high-octane fuel makes your engine run better. When in fact the higher the octane, the worse the fuel burns. Higher octane simply allows you to raise the compression of an engine before harmful detonation (pinging) occurs. The only reason older cars stop pinging when high-octane gas is used is because of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber raises the compression (other causes of pinging are timing is off, overheating, and lean fuel mixture.)

If you are running a stock engine with stock compression just use regular unless your engine is pinging (but try to fix the problem first). If you consider the amount of octane in gas when cubs where produced then today’s regular gasoline would have been high octane then. :idea:
1948 fcub Ser# 56129 with woods mower $350
1968 cub Ser# 231005 still running good $300

Being blessed by God with 2 great kids, a beautiful wife, and 2 cubs.

Priceless!

mopar1949
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Postby mopar1949 » Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:31 pm

Looks like I did something wrong there. Wander why it did not show up like that in the preview.

You get the Idea though right. :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:
1948 fcub Ser# 56129 with woods mower $350

1968 cub Ser# 231005 still running good $300



Being blessed by God with 2 great kids, a beautiful wife, and 2 cubs.



Priceless!

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Jim Hudson
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Postby Jim Hudson » Fri Oct 22, 2004 2:33 pm

Anyway you are right.
Young man for work, old man for advice

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artc
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Tractors Owned: Restored: 1950 Cub, 1950 Cub Demo, 1948 super AI, 1935 Silver King, 1946 Oliver 60 RC, John Deere M, 1950 C demo.

In working clothes:
1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade.
Location: CT, Middletown

Postby artc » Fri Oct 22, 2004 3:18 pm

mopar1949 wrote
The only reason older cars stop pinging when high-octane gas is used is because of carbon buildup in the combustion chamber raises the compression (other causes of pinging are timing is off, overheating, and lean fuel mixture.)

new cars have computers that monitor the engine and compensate for the octane of the fuel to prevent engine knocking, anoung other things. so, burning hi-test in most new cars simply burns money faster.

I live in a state (CT or state of corruption) that mandated 'oxcegenated fuel in winter under the bright idea that cars would be idling more (to warm up, presumably). all i could tell from the program was that any car i drove got 10% less gas mileage Nov to April when the program kicked in. so how burning more fuel translated into a cleaner environment escaped me. :?: That program was dropped a couple of years ago without any official comment.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
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mopar1949
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Postby mopar1949 » Fri Oct 22, 2004 3:44 pm

New cars are also equiped with a knock sensor that can detect detination, and adjust all systems accordingly.
1948 fcub Ser# 56129 with woods mower $350

1968 cub Ser# 231005 still running good $300



Being blessed by God with 2 great kids, a beautiful wife, and 2 cubs.



Priceless!


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